Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

FOR SALE

8/2002 Nissan Stagea Axis Autech Model.

VIN: NM35311708

Engine: VQ25DET

Color: White

Trasmission: 5 speed Auto w/ tiptronic.

Rego: Until April 2014

109xxx kms.

Overview:

Hey guys,

I’ve not had this car for a year, and whilst it has been the most comfortable, and reliable car I've ever owned, my situation has changed with my fiancé purchasing a brand new car, and only now requiring one car for a daily commute. Paying 2 sets of insurance/fuel/maintenance is just not viable at this stage.

I purchased this car from Ben at Northshore Prestige early this year around the 15/4/13. It had circa 104000kms when purchased, and I have put a further 4,000kms on it since owning.

It is immaculate. The paint has no chips whatsoever. There is NO rust. Mechanically, it is A1. There is no creaks, rattles, sounds etc. Automatic gearbox feels strong.

Being the Axis model, it also comes factory with a flared Autech styled bodykit, different grill, and from what I’ve been told, different suspension compared to non axis models. It comes with the beige leather interior (Not the crappy brown color) with heated seats, full electrics.

The only issue that I have with it is that the CD Player has crapped itself. Radio/Tape player (lol)still works, and you can put CDs into the 6 stacker, but it will simply not play.

Modifications:

- 18" genuine Nissan ARX wheels.

- EZlip front rubber lip.

- 20% window tint on front 2 windows to match rear privacy glass.

- 350Z Non Brembo slotted and dimpled rotors on the front.

I’ve simply used it as a film car for my business, and a daily commuter to and from the Bank. It doesn't get thrashed whatsoever, and is serviced meticulously. Washed every 2 weeks, and a full detail done every 8-12 weeks.

As far as I’m aware, at this stage, it is one of only 2 for sale in NSW. I have full approval papers from Department of Infrastructure and Transport, as well as Japanese Export Certificate in PDF format, provided by the dealer, if you would like to peruse it.

PRICE:

Looking for $15,990. Priced below market, and looking for a quick sale. Will not disappoint.

Located in Seaforth, NSW, 2092.

PICS:

Sideon_zps415c9fac.jpg

threequarterrear_zps88ad2171.jpg

rearshot_zps65b5a00c.jpg

frontquarter_zpsff4c4f8d.jpg

front_zpsb7875c20.jpg

sideshot_zpse1b8cf62.jpg

rearquarter_zpse6287ac6.jpg

cockpit_zpsd483982b.jpg

sidesill_zps2af7d308.jpg

F9953150ED3840B5B49AD9C0B9E536A2.jpg

Please contact me on here via PM, or you can email me on shazzbanger (at) gmail (dot) com.

Alternatively, you can contact me on zero four zero one two zero two five zero nine. If I am unable to answer, please leave a message and I will repsond as soon as I can. being a bank manager, it is sometimes hard to get to the phone all the time.

Happy to accept SMS if that is your forte. Also happy to liase with potential buyer regarding auto vehicle inspection, or workshop inspection.

Cheers,

Shaz

Edited by Shazbanger
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

$12k this week only, and you will own it. Still has rego till April, and has not a thing on it to fix/replace.

Surely someone out there is after a ridiculously cheap Axis Autech?

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
    • Turbos don't require pulling the motor apart so that's "easier". I would recommend the Nismo R3 turbos instead if you want to do stock twin turbo. It doesn't make as much power as the 2530s but it's only like ~50 whp off the mark and should have better response (ball bearing CHRA, slightly smaller turbo). A local that went with a Garrett G30 and 6boost manifold recently nearly burned his car to the ground after the hood insulator started melting and and burning so if you go single turbo I recommend doing a lot of research and validation work to make sure you don't do the same.
×
×
  • Create New...