Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hm tramlining realy sucks,& i only have a DR30 skyline with 205/60/15's on it! got my susp checked over today and i need new 'idler arm bushes, lower ball joint bushes, and radius rod bushes'. getting all these replaced with polyurethane ones next wednesday so hopefully this fixes my tramlining issues!

having a steering box and not rack on pinion i guess doesnt help either due to the steering having much more free play in it and tending to wander abit in a straight line anyway if its got no weight on it, so when it starts to tramline its pretty hard to get hold of!

i got 215/45/17s going on all round in a couple of months though so i beter sort this tramlining now while i got 15s or im buggered i think! haha

guy at susp place didnt say anything about upper control arm bushes so i can only assume he checked them out when generally checking the suspension today.. :cheers:

I had three people look at my alignment to no avail, it would track to the right constantly and tramline badly, One of them actually said the strut was bent causing a mis-camber. When I eventually changed the tyres to 255/40/17s all round, I had an allignment performed and all is perfect now, tracks true, trams much less and the alligment readout is perfect. And here I was thinking something had been damaged.

BTW. car has Bilstein adj. coil overs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dunno what to tell you, when I look at it on Consult I can see this warmup timing map kicking in around 40C coolant temp and it sticks around for a while:  At part throttle on the normal base timing map it peaks around ~43 degrees of timing or something like that, this warmup timing map drops it to like 12-15 degrees. 
    • I don't think that's what you're seeing. Something else doing that. The only time I've seen it get so retarded is when it's trying to control idle (in which case we're not talking about mapped timing tagets anyway) and when there is an extreme coolant temperature sensor fault. The RB26 ECU is essentially the same as the 20 ECU and I knew that ging inside out. There is no facility for it to retard that heavily on cold start. The OEMs never used to do it back then. I mean, shit, the catalyst is abotu 3 miles down the exhaust anyway. Early light-off was just a twinkle in some EPA arsehole's eye back then, not a regular engine control strategy.
    • I must preface my comments with a general expression of ignorance. I have no specific knowledge of these NA automtaic things. I can only assume that the "steering wheel button" is for enabling the tiptronic controls. Wierd that it would even need/want a button for that... But anyway.... Was the car previously tiptronic? Did you put a new cluster in as part of all this?
    • Regardless, it doesn't seem wise especially on RBs to actually chase MBT. Timing scatter is the big one on stock CAS, even if that's fixed overshoot is worse than undershoot. 
    • It's all about reducing the overall output. Reduce the source of it, you have wayyyy less to deal with in every other step and trick you play with. It's why something like a modern vehicle, so VW, Audi etc, there's thousands of tables for the ECU to calculate what it should be doing with the engine.   Why would you NOT reduce emissions the most effective way possible, when it has very minimal tradeoff, AND manufacturers are always struggling to meet the current standards.
×
×
  • Create New...