Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone

Thought I would start a build page for my project

Fj Holden with a RB 25det

post-118613-13772661798743_thumb.jpg

Plan so far is to rebuilt the engine with fairly standard internals, maybe a good set of forged slugs, balancing, a bit of porting new set of bolts to hold it all together, possibly some new cams, i already have a good greddy manifold copy, still need to buy exhaust manifold and gtx 3076 turbo and still not decided what ecu to use.

The front end I have is a new Rodtech unit with adjustable coil overs and a decent set of brakes.

post-118613-13772660147352_thumb.jpg

So far it's been fairly straight forward, major problems that I can see at the moment are the clutch master cylinder is fairly close to the inlet plenum and the throttle body flange is a bit too close to the inner guard so will have to cut and re position the flange.

The black spots on the firewall are where the vt brake booster and master cylinder and R33 clutch master cylinder will be mounted.

I will be recessing the firewall approximately 2" so the engine will be sitting back a bit further than in the picture to allow for the radiator and thermo fans

That's it for now

Keep you all posted with my progress

Cheers

Paul

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430726-fj-with-rb25det-build-page/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Haven't tacked the mounts into place yet, recently had a new addition to the family so it is sort of on hold at the moment.

I do know that I will need to recess the firewall around 2-3 inches to give clearance for the thermo fan and radiator to be fitted in front of the engine

That is what is controlling where the engine will be mounted

I am not sure what you are going to be doing about your brakes but many fJ folk use the vt common whore pedal assembly

The assembly will hit on the inlet manifold and that's why I asked winter what his dad did and didn't really get the answer we were looking for

Paul

Ah I see

I am fitting the rb25det and licensing here wanted the twin system like in the vt so if you loose the front or rear they don't affect the other.

Also you may not have enough volume to accurate the Vt brakes properly.

Licensing here in Wa like to see you use the complete brake set up from a car, mainly because if you don't then you need to brake test it.

I am using the vt pedal box and vr front and vt rear discs and they still want to do a brake test.

Have you spoken to NT licensing and a brake specialist regarding your setup.

Also you will be needing a sump from a GQ pootroll I think it is, they came out with the RB 30 petrol and a RD 28 Diesel engine and have a rear bowl sump which you will have to modify a bit due to the bowl sitting down a fair bit but a shit load easier than making up a new sump.

And

I think that using the hr front end will raise your engine up an extra 120 mm or so.

The front end that I have is a very similar profile to the original FJ front end allowing the engine to sit that 120 mm lower than the hr front end

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...