Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

Last week I decided to bolt down to SA to pick up a mr30 I bought from gumtree

It is an MR30 1983 model 4 door sedan

With an l24et

Unfortunately for me I bought the car at night due to my late arrival into Adelaide... I told the seller that I was not happy with the price of the car because it was in worse condition than what he told me... Eventually I agreed on a much lower price and I drove the car all the way from Adelaide 1500kms back to home in Alice springs, the car didn't miss a beat apart from a small overheating problem in coober pedy. When I finally got back I deduced that the problem was the guy had obviously never heard of the term radiator flush or coolant... After fixing said problem the car ran like a dream.... So the brief on the car is it has the standard l24e with an l20et turbo kit an rb20 ceramic turbo running .7 bar of boost, it's a five speed manual with a heavy duty clutch and a locked diff... It has a iron mask front end on it however as you will see the only parts that are salvageable are the bonnet and headlights. The car is going to run out of rego this week so I will be taking it off the road repairing any mechanicals that need fixing including the f***d front wheel bearings and then sourcing a new interior and a series 1 non iron mask front end any help or interest in my items for sale are much appreciated. So there you go I will try and keep you all updated and it should be a good project

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430913-my-mr30-project/
Share on other sites

Hey guys just had a closer look at the front end of my car tonight and found that under the actual body is rooted.... So if any one has a body sedan or coupe for sale I may be interested in putting my running gear in it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430913-my-mr30-project/#findComment-6990589
Share on other sites

Also I wanted to ask anyone would it be difficult to put my running gear in a c210 even cause I may be able to get a c210 from here in town

The 240k had a 2.4 l series motor in it but I think it has a long gear box instead of the stumpy in the r30 from memory etc. very similar car underneath though
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430913-my-mr30-project/#findComment-6994391
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Ok guys I feel like I have had a kick to the guts

I just rang the guy who built my car and found out that it was a drift car at one point and took a front end hit and now after searching for a bit I have found that the chassis has actually been welded at some point... So I can say goodbye to any chance of rego... So does anyone either have a rolling shell I can put my running gear in or is there enough interest for me to part out the car

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430913-my-mr30-project/#findComment-7022725
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Updating results following our SR20det project. Data collected form improves future turbocharger making and high flowing services. So far differences between G and GT series turbine wheels, we are in the process of making a new turbine, the aim is for better mid top range flow without gain too much lag.  Result is back to back comparison of G25-660 and GTX2867 spec turbochargers on the same car, nothing changed apart from turbocharger. Both tuned to knock limit from pump 98 fuel (US Ron93). GTX2867 was about 400RPM more responsive making 255rwkws while G25-660 made 17 extra Kws with wider spread of torque after 4500RPM finishing off at 272rwkws.  
    • @GTSBoy i tried to jumper the wires and got the steering wheel light to come on which is right under the gear indication but that still doesnt come on.  Can it be an issue with my cluster?
    • Given that you have seen the dash indicator work briefly, then it would seem like you have a simple wiring problem. What happens when you simply jumper the wires on the "steering wheel switch"?
    • Yesterday's day in review: All the wiring to the lights up the front how I want it, is ran, terminated, and all to length. The only lighting up front I haven't finished is the side indicators, as I need to get to the partly cutup factory loom, and find the plugs for them. Interesting note, the side indicators use the exact same plug that's in the doors for something else that I don't remember what it is... So that plug better be careful...   Power steering solenoid, on the R33 is variable, and from memory PWM. The Ford's control from the docs I have so far, is it's just a on or off control. So I'm not sure it's what I want, and in any case, power steering running, but at its heaviest (solenoid off) is likely what I'll want anyway, so I'm not yet touching it at all. All the wiring I can complete so far, is done. There are 3 wires I need to make a plug for at the ECU, and these are just for the vehicle speed sensor, of which I need to get a T5 from an AU, so I can use its output that has the speed sensor on it. (My car doesn't have ABS, otherwise I'd set it up to use one of the ring gears on that). I need to buy new headlight globes and front parker globes, otherwise I could show photos of lights working. Current fuel lines in and out on this motor are "5/16". I'll order hardline, and some AN fittings for that, and I just need to 100% check fuel line size at the tank end, to get the ends for it. I'm also looking at a few options for the banjo bolts to AN fittings for the power steering rack. I'll pull the reservoir off the Barras PS pump. There's an off the shelf fitting for that pump for a -10 AN feed, and it'll use a 16mm to dash -6 an outlet to feed the rack. I'll be making my own power steering reservoir, I'm going through the thought process at the moment of how I'll run the baffles, and I need to research another idea for it too.
    • Two inlet runners changes the engines characteristics requiring less fuel to make torque at different points in the rev range. The smaller diameter inlet runners on the DET increases air flow speed, which improves atomisation of fuel, particularly in low load/idle for better burn, and in specific areas of the engine, (areas you would use when driving normally) increases the efficiency. All of those items change how efficient the engine is at different speeds. The changes on the neo help slightly to improve emissions where it matters. The overall improvements won't be the likes of going from an engine built in the 70s to an engine built in the 2000s, it's just a small step. But still leaves it the RB with the best chance of improvement.   As for your comment about the whole using a cat to not need to worry about those gases. Two things, no system is 100% perfect. It won't eliminate everything. So reduce the quantity you put into it, you still reduce the output. Two, make that system do less work, and it's likely to survive a little bit longer. Funnily enough to, one trick employed to get cats up to temp, AND to drastically reduce emissions before they get up to temp, is to reduce ignition timing.
×
×
  • Create New...