Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just curious if anyone has had the v36 update applied, and where/how this was done?

I'm not able to have the source of my pv36's problems found.

The car hesitates when taking off from a stopped start, usually at traffic lights. It just skips a beat.

Then while driving it continues to skip, feels like it's being pulled or cutting out very quickly every 2-5 seconds. (rev's drop 150-300rpm)

I've read there is a update that eliminates this issue, does anyone experience this or has anyone

found somewhere to get the update?

I have also read that a faulty camshaft position sensor, has anyone else experienced this?

I have not tried a reset yet (dc battery, pump brake peddle 10x) from what I've read this is not the answer, but might try anyway.

Do I pump the pedal fast/med/slowly?

Greatful for any information anyone has, the problem is getting quite bad.

Edited by awsam

i am having the stutter problem when stationary, an uprev tune would normally fix the problem, can cost up to 1k so i have decided to live with it

I'm not one to usually spend more than 10k on a car, and just can't accept it running this way. There must be something that can be done

You need to get in on a Consult 3/3+ and check the crank and cam sensor waveforms, only a Nissan dealer would be able to diagnose this kind of fault properly imo, without swapping sensors aimlessly... But the cost...

Or you can just change the cam/crank sensors. :P

If only you were local, is yours a 3.5L?

My mechanic works at a Nissan stealarship but he has said that they are not able to get firmware for imports because they have Aussie version Consult 3 which does not allow them to download/access firmware upgrades for cars that they do not sell here.

^^ this is a load of crap.

Nissan have access to the correct software and choose not to diagnose, because they know it will be a headache. If they refuse to help, try another dealer.

I have the aftermarket consult 3 unit here, but unfortunately it doesn't run the waveform diagnostic oscilloscope part of it.

^ fair point, makes sense. Real shame though.

What about getting Cam shaft, Crank shaft, o2 sensors?

This might be your only shot at fixing it cheaply, The sensors are available in the US at around $200 us the set, although I am hoping the aftermarket ones I am ordering in work just as well at a fraction of that price.

Edit: It's not just a bad batch of fuel is it? Have you put a fresh batch of 98 into it?

Nah, this has been an issue for 5 weeks now, progressively getting worse. I only use BP98. The problem is quite embarasing, annoying, and can't be good for the engine.
There's only a couple of dealers in Adelaide, have only been to Unley Nissan so far and they were useless. Infiniti tell me via my email enquiry there is a store/workshop opening

here "In the near future" but no further details.

Can't remember the brand name, but i've read a aftermarket Cam shaft sensor had a slightly wider plastic clip and can destroy the clip engine side if brittle.

I found this brand for $50 per sensor, not inc postage. But can't for the life of me remember details as I dismissed it quickly after reading the issue.

Are you replacing just the Cam shaft sensor? I take it you're experiencing similar?

^^ this is a load of crap.

Nissan have access to the correct software and choose not to diagnose, because they know it will be a headache. If they refuse to help, try another dealer.

I have the aftermarket consult 3 unit here, but unfortunately it doesn't run the waveform diagnostic oscilloscope part of it.

They can diagnose...they did on mine. They just cant get the firmware downloaded.

Ahh, right.

Apparently I can copy and paste firmware. :P

There is of course no need for a firmware update, the car was working fine for years, then started running rough. There is a fault somewhere that needs to be fixed.

Nissan called me today to tell me Nissan jap simply refuse to send them updated firmware. Also said in Adelaide only place to buy OEM parts (orderd from Jap) is from Main north Nissan. Failing that the guy on the phone assured me I could order from a GTR dealer in Melb.

Scotty, when do you think you'd be getting around the putting the sensors in? Pretty eager to hear your results so I can follow :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, this is probably where a wiring diagram and a multimeter come into play.
    • I can say to anyone thats doing this; having done a number of R clusters; just be careful if its an unknown cluster.  It takes a bit of force to pull up; but if it feels excessive then its probably stuck. I've had this and pulled the entire hair spring out; and I can tell you; its not easy getting the correct spring replacement with the correct inner diameter and winding. In my case someone had used some sort of adhesive to stick it to the spindle and it pulled the whole spindle out; which the force seperated the hairspring from the spindal and caused it to deform.  You may have to clean it (IPA); or in my case if i'd known i should have used some sort of solvent on it.  Also check out Cruizin Central on eBay. He does all sorts of dials; and you can email him with any custom designs you want. So if you want like certain logos etc...he'll send you a mock of what it will look like then you accept the order and he'll take care of the rest. Fantastic dials and he can do basically any design you want. 
    • Have you confirmed its the actual axles? Also the wheel bearings that mount on the hubs to hold the axles wear out. I replaced mine as they got play in them. It sorted my play issue. 
    • Ive converted a few clusters for the R33 with 320km/h dials. On the back there are some pads which can be bridged or unbridged (using solder or wick braid) to calibrate it. There is one bridge which is for MPH <> KPH; and there are combinations of bridges to offset it. There is probably a diagram  For example; this is my conversion for a 180km/h dial to a 320km/h dial (I put custom GT-R dials on it with the GTS25t layout) If you have J2 soldered (assuming the S clusters have a similar config to the R clusters); you may need to remove that solder
    • Back on topic 😉, these are some of the notable pages from the booklets that are supplied with each weekly parts update. I never knew the BNR32 test mule car had an S13 Silvia front end... *Edit: On closer inspection the test car still had the R32 body, but only the front end had Silvia panels etc.
×
×
  • Create New...