Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The covers are only the magnet, not the actuator which is behind it. Nissan will want to rebuild the timing chain and tensioner assemblies and replace the cam actuators, this will cost 5-6k or more.

I have found a way to replace the actuators in the VQ25/VQ30 without removal of the engine, but I doubt any mechanic would try such a complex task. Your engine has intake and exhaust actuators which doubles the chances of an issue.

Apparently they think it is not a major job - but off course, seeing i believing, especially when it comes to Nissan.

Cars just back from Nissan. This other branch seems to be very familiar with this problem. From their previous findings, this problem must be software as they have even replaced with a brand new engine on another Skyline v36 and the problem still persists. Put it point blank - THIS IS A NISSAN DESIGN ISSUE.

They also sort of know that there is a software update that can solve this issue, but Nissan Japan won't release to NZ !!

I have read that for the Infinity's in the USA - software update did solve it permanently.

Btw, I have just tried the exhaust relearn procedure and this reduces this problem slightly.

Anyone knows how to update software without Nissan's help?

EXHAUST VALVE TIMING CONTROL LEARNING - Without CONSULT-III

1. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
2. Set selector lever to N position (A/T) or neutral position (M/T) and confirm that following electrical or
mechanical loads are not applied.
- Headlamp switch is OFF
- Air conditioner switch is OFF
- Rear defogger switch is OFF
- Steering wheel is in the straight-ahead position, etc.
3. Keep the engine speed between 1,800 and 2,000 rpm at 20 seconds.

Had mine in Nissan today, I gave them a small list of things to check but after they read this thread they decided not to bother further diagnostics.

They think it is a timing issue, or the firmware. One of the staff there has imported the same v36 (still on the boat) and is attempting to get the firmware file from Japan.

I think perhaps the only way I'm going to get this update is to buy a ECU which has already been flashed. A importer I spoke to yesterday says they

have 3x 2008 Sedans comming in 2 weeks and they'd be happy to swap the ecu over for a test.

No clue how to check current version though??

On another note, I turned the car off and unplugged those magnetic retarder sensors once the problem popped up. The problem immediately went away and my car

drove perfectly for the 30 or so meters. I turned it off again, then plugged the sensors back in and the problem was there straight away.

Nissan tell me these sensors only control the advanced position timing (name?) not the crucial timing.

It sounded like a feature the car could live without, but Nissan would not answer the question "Can I drive forever without it?"

Edited by awsam

With an engine light up? I don't think it's wise. Plus you will lose many powerz in the midrange. :P

It is just the cam retarders, are they making noise? If so, can you pinpoint which one is doing it?

Nissan can test and re-tune the cams using Consult3 or 3+, the cams drift around all over the place constantly from my experience, but once they hone in on a degree setting (using the PWM signal to the magnet) they hold it very well. They are self learning to a degree.

Something as simple as the wrong grade of oil could cause these cam issues I suspect, do you know what oil is in it?

I haven't heard any unusual noise, next time it happens I will unplug only one of the sensors and see if that isolates it further.

Nah no clue, what ever oil Wilall Racing use when servicing. But it was doing it well before they serviced it.

I'll have to call them this week and ask about the re-tune, I dare say they'll be very reluctant.

Does anyone know if the ECU needs to be in the car for an upgrade? or can it just be plugged into a power course and flashed? I say this as it may be less trouble to fly to Melb cheap with my ecu and visit Infiniti.

I found a very detailed thread on the 350z exhibiting the exact same issue. Which they confirm is VTC

http://my350z.com/forum/maintenance-and-repair/307878-sputtering-during-warm-up-38.html

Edited by awsam
  • 1 month later...

None yet, still waiting for a response from Infiniti Melb to see if they can get the update.
If not then i'll just have to trade it at a car yard, because there's no hiding the fault so no one would buy it privately :(

Did you ever try cleaning your throttle body?

I've owned a few cars in the past with a similar issue and found the throttle body dirty with carbon deposits and gum.

Works wonders and simple to do.

None yet, still waiting for a response from Infiniti Melb to see if they can get the update.

If not then i'll just have to trade it at a car yard, because there's no hiding the fault so no one would buy it privately :(

If i remember correctly from previous post, you bought this car from a dealer, i would say go back to them and let them trade it in less the normal depreciation of time you have owned it.

If i remember correctly from previous post, you bought this car from a dealer, i would say go back to them and let them trade it in less the normal depreciation of time you have owned it.

Yeh I did in Sydney and drove it back to Adelaide.

Is that something I can actually do? Like by law? I've been meaning to look into how strict lemon laws are. Does it really matter that I've had the car since March?

wow great thread and lots of information.

i think i will hold off on purchasing my v36 sedan until someone confirms with nissan/inifiti regarding a permanent fix for this, rather than just unplugging which may cause long term issues.

Awsam, yes you should be covered under ACCC laws as it is deemed a major fault as it has a problem that would have stopped you from buying it if you'd known about it, and it is unsafe as it can cause accidents at traffic lights when taking off.

http://www.accc.gov.au/consumers/consumer-rights-guarantees/repair-replace-refund

if the dealer doesn't play ball, don't get upset or emotional, just give ACCC a call to lodge a complaint and they will give you advice on what to do next.

wow great thread and lots of information.

i think i will hold off on purchasing my v36 sedan until someone confirms with nissan/inifiti regarding a permanent fix for this, rather than just unplugging which may cause long term issues.

same :)

I'm doing some asking around as well... hopefully we can find a local specialist

just a thought, have you guys tried adjusting your idle RPM when in D higher? such as 1100-1200 instead of 850.

As i noticed alot of autos idle higher than manuals (which are generally 7-900rpm)

as it appears to be happening at low RPM on take off only, unless you guys mean lowish rpm = under 3000rpm..

wow great thread and lots of information.

i think i will hold off on purchasing my v36 sedan until someone confirms with nissan/inifiti regarding a permanent fix for this, rather than just unplugging which may cause long term issues.

Awsam, yes you should be covered under ACCC laws as it is deemed a major fault as it has a problem that would have stopped you from buying it if you'd known about it, and it is unsafe as it can cause accidents at traffic lights when taking off.

http://www.accc.gov.au/consumers/consumer-rights-guarantees/repair-replace-refund

if the dealer doesn't play ball, don't get upset or emotional, just give ACCC a call to lodge a complaint and they will give you advice on what to do next.

This is the way to go, im just surprised you have lived with this problem as long as you have, if it was me i would be there the day i found such faults.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...