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Could you guys explain a little bit about this problem how to figure out this problem ,as i have got 250 gt sedan 2007 i felt it losses power while driving .Especially when i take my foot off from accltr i felt this today few times.

  On 19/11/2013 at 3:56 AM, Elcid said:

Cars just back from Nissan. This other branch seems to be very familiar with this problem. From their previous findings, this problem must be software as they have even replaced with a brand new engine on another Skyline v36 and the problem still persists. Put it point blank - THIS IS A NISSAN DESIGN ISSUE.

They also sort of know that there is a software update that can solve this issue, but Nissan Japan won't release to NZ !!

I have read that for the Infinity's in the USA - software update did solve it permanently.

Btw, I have just tried the exhaust relearn procedure and this reduces this problem slightly.

Anyone knows how to update software without Nissan's help?

EXHAUST VALVE TIMING CONTROL LEARNING - Without CONSULT-III

1. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
2. Set selector lever to N position (A/T) or neutral position (M/T) and confirm that following electrical or
mechanical loads are not applied.
- Headlamp switch is OFF
- Air conditioner switch is OFF
- Rear defogger switch is OFF
- Steering wheel is in the straight-ahead position, etc.
3. Keep the engine speed between 1,800 and 2,000 rpm at 20 seconds.

Hey mate would you be able to explain this problem to me as i have got 250 gt sedan 2007,i think mine has got this problem but before i say it does i want to confirm and take it back to dealers as car is under warranty

Just got a call from Infiniti, Nissan japan are closed for winter until this coming monday, they expect information mid-late next week. I was told they're confident as they're new in Australia they want to help as much as possible to get the Infiniti name in peoples good books.

He also said if they're able to get it, they will simply put it on flash drive and send it to Main north Nissan SA :)

I asked about simply buying a new updated ECU and I was told that all ECU's sent from Japan are blank.

  On 16/01/2014 at 2:57 AM, dori34 said:

just a thought, have you guys tried adjusting your idle RPM when in D higher? such as 1100-1200 instead of 850.

As i noticed alot of autos idle higher than manuals (which are generally 7-900rpm)

as it appears to be happening at low RPM on take off only, unless you guys mean lowish rpm = under 3000rpm..

My idle once warmed up actually sits around the 550 mark, and sometimes while stopped at the lights will drop to 300 and vibrate for a few seconds.

All of my other problems though are during normal driving, under 3000rpm. If I slam it to 4,500-5000 that usually clears up the bucking problem, but not the hesitation from stop start.

Agreed, I can't justify charging anywhere near what they do, for even simple fault diagnosis. $150 to plug the Consult 3 in, if they even want to. Stupidly expensive parts pricing, which you must use if they do the work, and no warranty on the parts because 'Import' is just wrong. Plus they generally have no idea, so what exactly are you paying 1000's for?

  On 16/01/2014 at 7:51 AM, scotty nm35 said:

Agreed, I can't justify charging anywhere near what they do, for even simple fault diagnosis. $150 to plug the Consult 3 in, if they even want to. Stupidly expensive parts pricing, which you must use if they do the work, and no warranty on the parts because 'Import' is just wrong. Plus they generally have no idea, so what exactly are you paying 1000's for?

Yeh it's incredible, even the cost of my o2 sensor a few pages back OMG!

If the firmware update doesn't fix anything, then a thread that GFX sent me sounds like the only option left ( http://x.infinitihelp.com/forum/showthread.php/2007-g35-hesitation-dealer-mystified-ideasi-10652.html )

I break out in a sweat imaging the cost of removing the timing covers and replacing all the seals (oil gallery gasket?) done by Nissan.

Just recently had this issue, thought at first it was just my foot position on the accelerator.
Glad u can get some help from Melbourne Infiniti, called them to see if they can help me get a key coded, and got no where at all..

  On 16/01/2014 at 8:40 AM, ahxching said:

Just recently had this issue, thought at first it was just my foot position on the accelerator.

Glad u can get some help from Melbourne Infiniti, called them to see if they can help me get a key coded, and got no where at all..

Nissan can do keys, tell them to use the Nissan Micra program. The guys at Main North Nissan in SA almost didn't do my keys until another branch they called said to use the Micra, bang! done.

Anyone with a Consult 3 or 3+ can do it apparently, not sure I would want to have a crack though, I imagine bricking an ecu isn't what awsam needs right now. :P

Nissan can do it once he has the flash file, the actual reflash is the easy part.

  On 17/01/2014 at 12:00 AM, dori34 said:

anyone thought of asking how much inifiti/nissan japan would charge to do this?

would probably be cheaper sending ecu there have firmware updated and paying for return shipping, could use jesse streeter for this.

I suggested flying to Melb with the ECU in my pocket, but Infiniti told me it needs to be in the car.

Heya princesng,

With my car the problem is that the when the car is warm, meaning around 5-10 mins after starting the engine. If i accelerate slowly, from the 800+RPM mark, the car will hesitate at exactly the 1000rpm mark. This problem does not happen when:

1. the car is cold (immediately after cold start)

2. If you remove the connectors of the 2 cam retarders in the front of the engine (see previous posts). Doing this verifies that you have the same problem.

Hope this explains..

  On 18/01/2014 at 3:02 AM, Elcid said:

Heya princesng,

With my car the problem is that the when the car is warm, meaning around 5-10 mins after starting the engine. If i accelerate slowly, from the 800+RPM mark, the car will hesitate at exactly the 1000rpm mark. This problem does not happen when:

1. the car is cold (immediately after cold start)

2. If you remove the connectors of the 2 cam retarders in the front of the engine (see previous posts). Doing this verifies that you have the same problem.

Hope this explains..

I will check this,but when i start car in the morning i let it run for about 3 min atleast,till RPM comes to 1000 then wen i move into drive it gives a push as well i have to check this as well i think this is a problem with my car and second thing i have noticed sometimes when i start my car not specially in the morning some shutter sound comes from ac compartment as well not always though

Cheers for explaining this i wll be in touch if further information needed

  On 18/01/2014 at 3:02 AM, Elcid said:

2. If you remove the connectors of the 2 cam retarders in the front of the engine (see previous posts). Doing this verifies that you have the same problem.

So if that's the issue surely there's a fix?

  On 18/01/2014 at 4:58 AM, Elcid said:

Yeah true. But according to Nissan this is a software issue and they wouldn't troubleshoot it...

Where did u buy ur car from as i bought from one of the local car yard i cud take it back cz these problems are quite annoying once you know.

Experienced this once on my other car. It was a dirty throttle body..

Felt it too on my friends turbocharged vw and corrolla... seems normal though. Slight stutter on acceleration from stop.

doesnt happen on my 350gt. Im hearing enough loose panels in the car :rolleyes:

Just putting my 2cents worth

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