Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Experienced this once on my other car. It was a dirty throttle body..

Felt it too on my friends turbocharged vw and corrolla... seems normal though. Slight stutter on acceleration from stop.

doesnt happen on my 350gt. Im hearing enough loose panels in the car :rolleyes:

Just putting my 2cents worth

Hey mate i have this problem as well in my car when i put car into drive from stationary to drive,or drive to reverse it gives a jerk.Sometimes while driving the car it gives stutter for about 2-3 seconds above 1000 RPM,Car is back with dealers to get it fixed clearly explained them if they can get this fixed more than happy to get that back otherwise dealwith them in other way.So the salesman at the caryard is keeping me updated what's been going on i just recieved text this evening saying they have cleaned the throttle body and car is booked in for throttle soft wear RESET I Dont know what he meant with this RESET.If u got any idea could you explai.

Cheers

They cleaned the throttle, and now it's probably worse, so you are paying for them to do a throttle re-learn now, that should have been done in the first place imo. It's a 10 minute job with the Consult reader, so don't let them charge you through the nose...

They cleaned the throttle, and now it's probably worse, so you are paying for them to do a throttle re-learn now, that should have been done in the first place imo. It's a 10 minute job with the Consult reader, so don't let them charge you through the nose...

My last mechanic told me he couldn't connect to my car using consult because it was configured to speak to his 2x R35GTR's only, does that sound legit?

They cleaned the throttle, and now it's probably worse, so you are paying for them to do a throttle re-learn now, that should have been done in the first place imo. It's a 10 minute job with the Consult reader, so don't let them charge you through the nose...

as car is under 6 months warranty but it has got too many problems lkike when engine is hot,we turn car off and start it again it makes a clap sound from dashboard,i changed the factory wheels with 18' aftermarket after two weeks front suspension started making noise,stutter problem,engine mobiliser goes on when its bit windy which christchurch weather is always like that too annoying.Car has been brought from one of the reputable dealers in christchurch but there service has been shocking it has 6 months dealership warranty.I bought this car about 3.5 months ago from this time period my car was at dealers about 4 times roughly a month ??

Any advise wat to do further ??

as car is under 6 months warranty but it has got too many problems lkike when engine is hot,we turn car off and start it again it makes a clap sound from dashboard,i changed the factory wheels with 18' aftermarket after two weeks front suspension started making noise,stutter problem,engine mobiliser goes on when its bit windy which christchurch weather is always like that too annoying.Car has been brought from one of the reputable dealers in christchurch but there service has been shocking it has 6 months dealership warranty.I bought this car about 3.5 months ago from this time period my car was at dealers about 4 times roughly a month ??

Any advise wat to do further ??

Forgot to tell ya they imported this car for me from japan,when car arrived here in nz it had acid rain in paint (Roof,Boot lid).Right side doors were all heavily chipped.Bonnet was heavily chipped as well,I had to fight for this to get it fixed as i picked up my car on rainy day so cudnt see any paint blemishes.When i washed my car 1st time i saw all this shit.Car had very little brake fluid,took it back to them dey started saying its white paint on my car which they cudn't see it was acid rain.

Then other thing brake pedal pulsing,after another month,All the door lights,dome light,retractable mirrors stopped working.Car was at dealers again to get this problem fixed

mate you've had a shocka :-/

I think so as well but if my car is not right this time wen i go to pick it up as per Consumer acts i am gonna get money back dats it cz i hve had enough of it already in last 3 months

Dump it, this car is a total lemon
Hopefully tomorrow I get good news from Infiniti.
I'm worried though that the firmware will not fix it and instead its a "Oil gallery gasket" ?? Is that just a oil pan rubber gasket?

Edited by awsam

There are a few Orings they could be talking about, some in between the sump and block, some between the block and cam chain cover.

Unplugging those solenoids a couple of pages back is unlikely to make a difference to the affects of a damaged O-Ring/gasket?

Edited by awsam

It will stop the units actuating. At a guess if the advance/retard mechanism is banging the end of it's travel then the Orings will be fine, it will more likely just need camshaft degree reprogramming. There is a menu dedicated to cam actuation diagnostics on the consult 3. Things like oil viscosity and oil pressure will change the requirements for cam control away from the factory settings enough to require reprogramming of the pwm signal. These engines learn to some extent but there are definitely re-learn procedures your mech can try.

Failing that, I have heard of the hydraulic solenoids getting blocked inside, there is a fine gauze filter on them. If you are having problems with the electronic actuator though, then you may need to replace the advance/retard assembly as I mentioned earlier. Quite a common fault on the VQ25's.

Thanks for the extra info, sounds like more work than anyone I've come across in Adelaide is enthusiastic enough to investigate.
I really wish I could slap a bandaid on it and just f**k it off lol.

Hopefully Infiniti have finally got an answer for me tomorrow morning.

Infiniti just got in touch, they've finally been given permission to discuss the logistics with the department handling the update in Japan.

Yea mine is booked in for tommorow at Nissan dealership as well for ECU update and Throttle reset lets see what happens next fingers crossed

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I replaced the whole clutch line with the chase bays braided hose, I think it removes that loop, is it the short hose that comes immediately off the slave or is there a drawing in the manual to find what you’re referring to? It was just re-bled when I upgraded to the nismo slave, old slave worked fine but I thought that might help, didn’t change a thing. It’s like the first half of the pedal is pushing air and then when it finally actuates the master the friction zone is tiny. Makes it practically impossible to launch the car
    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
×
×
  • Create New...