O2 sensor

[JaFF]

I get woeful fuel economy. like 300km to a full tank.

would it be the o2 sensor?

if so, where can you buys these from?

JaFF

[blind_elk]

I highly doubt it's the O2 sensor. The sensor only really works on cruise. City driving and heavy-right-foot driving does not lend itself to the O2 sensor playing a particularly useful role in fuel economy.

[paulr33]

i was getting 250ks to a full tank, didnt know if 02 sensor was ok or not. got it replaced

fuel ecconmy went to 350ks to a full tank, i do mostly city driving. stock gtst series II

the part is about $120 at your local auto parts shop you can get a Ford EL o2 sensor and it will work or you can get the geniune nissan part for a higher price

definetelly worth a try. if you get the Ford EL one you have to cut wires the factory harness wont fit obviously but the wiring is easy. its supposed to be replaced every 40,000 ks according to nissan

[siksII]

if its the original 02 sensor, there is no way thats its still ok, as paulr33 said meant to be replaced at 40kms... u can use a multimeter to test but i wouldnt bother, just change it. and chances are its original, its not like the japs take much care of their cars...

the falcon one is fine i got one for 70 bucks from an auto 1... (didnt end up fitting), just change it and see wat happens

but in the end it depends how u drive, my fuel economy for stock r33 varied between 280-500 kms per 50 litres.

[timbar32]

Anyone know if you can clean an o2 sensor? Carbie cleaner maybe. Or is f@#cked just plain F%*cked??

[paulr33]

i dont think you can. its only $140 for the part brand new. just buy a new one.

if you take the current one out and you shake it and hear a rattle is is damaged and work correctly (ie: its dead).

[zzsprade]

Out of curiousity (as I am having a similar problem) where are the two o2 sensors exactly located?

-Alex

[paulr33]

there is only one. its located on the exhaust pipe

if you pop your bonnet, facing front onwards, look towards the back right, youll see the turbo heat shield. just behind that is a large pipe going downwards (this is your exhaust) about 1/4 way down the pipe is a piston looking thing with wires coming out, thats your o2 sensor

[paulr33]

That thing (not the remote obviously!) is screwed into your exhaust pipe. You need a special tool to remove as its really awkward to remove.

It uses an oxygen plate thingymajig to basically get data from the exhaust fumes going out and gives this feedback to the ECU. The ECU then uses some of this data to lean out fuel mixtures (thus resulting in saving fuel).

When this o2 sensor no longer works the ECU doesn't get any (or proper) feedback on the exhaust gases and has to assume levels, so it basically runs rich all the time. This result is bad fuel economy as the ECU can't run lean becuase it believes it may be too risky and has no factual evedience to go on that it should lean the fuel mixture, so it just runs rich

[Bobby^]

what tool do i need to remove the little bastard ??? :blah:

[paulr33]

you can buy the tool but its probably not worth it. your local mechanic can remove the old one put new one in and wire up correctly in an hour, so thats $60 an hour, so $60

the tooll will be more than $60 i think

[BenA31]

i did mine myself, cost me 99 bucks from petroject (and no wiring involved, the plug is already on it) and it was simply the case of removing the heatshield off the turbo and getting a spanner and taking the bugger off and switching it over, wasn't too difficult......don't pay someone to do it, save the dosh.

btw go to http://www.petroject.com.au/ to find the contact details and as it states on the site

"Function: The oxygen sensor is an essential component of the engine management system. It is used by the ECU to monitor the air/fuel ratio of the engine providing tighter control of engine emissions and improving fuel consumption."

[WazR32GTSt]

for R32GTSt:

- unplug the sensor

- remove the plug from the metal bracket that holds it

- remove this metal bracket that holds the plug. its attached to the turbo heat shield

- its a 21mm (maybe 19mm) spanner that just simply unscrews the sensor

reverse the process to put it back/put new one on

i had a sort of 'missing' problem that i thought may have been O2 sensor-related so i took it off, sprayed it with brake cleaner and put it back on

I agree that you can't clean the O2 sensor if its stuffed but... if the sensor is fine and you are running rich and the sensor is covered in carbon then it can't really 'sense' the exhaust gas as it has no access to it. thus giving it a spray removes the carbon and gives the sensor the chance to read the exhaust gas for oxygen levels...

that was my theory and it gave me a smoother idle and slightly better fuel economy

[wilch]

Ok... Whacked it in after f'ing around with it for awhile. The damn wires wouldn't take any solder!!!! What's up with that? I even got out my heavy duty soldering iron to see if the problem was not enough heat. Nup. Didn't work.

So anyway, I got out the crimping set and crimped some new plugs on and put it all back together.

Oh, I was also still worried about that part number, so before putting it in (I had already cut my old o2 sensor off) I called some other repco stores to verify the part numbers.

ACA ROX207 = direct fitment ford EL falcon (straight 6) O2 sensor $75 25% off

ACA ROX203 = universal fitment for EL falcon (straight 6) O2 sensor $101 25% off

The difference between the 2? The universal is about $30 more expensive. But the internal's of the 2 are exactly the same. Both are 3 wire.

Anyway, I had the cheaper ACA ROX207 direct fitment one. It fits by the way. Really easily. The only problem I had was connecting the old plug back onto this one. The wires would just not take any solder.

So I popped the new girl in. Started the car up. Went out the back........All I could smell was petrol....and the exhaust was coloured slightly (more than normal, ie. grey). Time to swear right?

Turned her off. Reset the ECU. Started her back up again....Same deal....Got my mate to rev the car. PETROL WAS COMING OUT OF THE EXHAUST!!! The ground had petrol splatters all over it. This was reving only lightly by the way (engine had only just come off the "cold" level on the temp gauge).

So I wiped the exhaust off. By this stage the exhaust gas was clear again (not grey/black), and petrol had stopped splattering out.

I took her for a drive. Slowly at first, constantly checking the mirrors for billowing smoke.

All clear. No smoke. Floored it.

She picked up better than before, grabbed second and checked the mirrors for the large puff of black smoke that normally happened on the 1st to 2nd change at wide open throttle. No smoke!

So I kept on driving around, checking for smoke, and listening for pinging. All ok. Floored it again got wheelspin and a nice kick in the back so she's not in limp mode.

When I got back home I checked the exhaust tip which was always blackened after a drive and hey it wasn't black! I also thought I'd get my mate to rev it again (hard this time - to redline) a few times quickly. No smoke. All good.

For now all's good. The new o2 sensor seems to be working better than the old one. Here's hoping I get more km's out of tank now.

BTW, I also rang up Hornsby Nissan. They quoted $184 for the Nissan o2 sensor.

wil..

[BenA31]

hey guys, skypy12 bought one from http://www.petroject.com.au/ and it has the plug already in it!  no need to mess around with wires.  skypy12 can you tell us the part# for it?

3 Wire oxygen sensor (stock code=23011), price was $99 inc GST

The oxygen sensor had the plug already on it, so required no wiring to be cut or soldered. was simply unplug old one and in goes the new!

Coolant temp sensor (think its a boosh one, non nissan)(stock code = 0280130026)

Injector parts set (stock code=9122067011), price for both sensor and wiring parts set were $19.80 incl GST

because the sensor i got was not genuine nissan it was a univeral plug that fitted, though all that was needed for the wiring was to cut the nissan plug off the wiring put the two wires into these two clips that were in the parts set which slides nicely over the temp sensor, was very easy and does the job.

Except only note, though i'm 99% sure it wasn't the temp sensor fault, but ive still got a few problems wth cold start but have traced it to the wiring circuit of the temp sensor, and i beleive my sensor was never at fault in first place. I'm going to re wire the sensor directly to the computer today and see how it goes.

[Cubes]

I spoke to NGK a while back and they said the O2 sensors specs vary slightly (preheat, burnoff?, resistance), he said even though its more expensive its best to get a genuine or if you can get the park number off it then do it that way.

He told me even though its a 2 or 3 wire O2 sensors and it appears to work it isn't working properly. But who knows maybe the Ford o2 sensor has the correct specs to work 100% with the Nissan ECU's.

I did an ECU diag a while back, it came up with a Coolant temp sensor problem.

I used the coolant temp sensor from the RB25DE top end I used for my RB30DET.

Worked fine, didn't notice any difference in any area.

Those people who are getting really bad fuel economy, Pull your injectors out and get them cleaned.

Anything under 400km's to a tank is just not acceptable, not to mention 200-250kays.

Any 1 who knows how O2 sensors really work and if this NGK bloke was feeding me sh*t let me know.

[Mud]

R33 see the pic.

have you replaced yours?

if so just run out and tell me the order they line up in the connector.

it says three different colours here also. http://www.powerlink.co.nz/~graeme/faq/

so would I be safe to assume the white is the output on the nissan plug, and black on the falcon. and the other two are just power and earth for the heater??

Thus

Nissan Falcon

White ---------> Black

Red ----------->White

Black ----------> White

[Steve]

Just fitted a ford EL O2 sensor - made by NGK, cost $80 from a petroject distributor. 2 white wires and one black wire, same as the OEM one.

I could not get the solder to take to the wires from the Nissan (bosch) O2 sensor plug, so ended up

removing the pins from the plug

opening the clamp that holds the little green rubber things on the end of the wire

cutting off the nissan wires

soldering the ford wires to the nissan pins (with green rubber things back in place)

refitting pins to plug

Worked fine. I noticed straight up that the voltage during cold start idle was up and not just dropping straight off to 0V. Even after driving and warming up, the voltage only drops to 0.04 at the lowest, where as before it used to drop off to 0V all the time.

Previously it would jump around all over the place alot quicker than it does now - so hopefully it is working ok.

Idle is also alot smoother now - maybe because the ecu can actually see what is happening?

[paulr33]

the 3 wires are

heater, heater, signal to ecu

there are two wires coloured the same which goto the heater ones and the unique colour wire goes to the ecu

[Damo]

would a dead 02 sensor be the reason why my car is finding it VERY hard to start first thing in the morning, however it starts fine every other time, except first thing in the morning.

I did a bit of testing today, disconnected the O2 sensor and started the car. No difference from the usual smooth start. As the car was warming up i connected the plug and disconnected the plug sever times and each time i noticed a small change in the revs. The change was very slight but noticeable.

I guess this is one way of testing the sensor without a multimeter.

Can anyone tell me if there is a diagnostics test for this sensor?