Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...

Hey I plugged in my consult today and the o2 sensor plays around at .70 to .80 volts, is it busted, could that be why I'm only getting 200kms to a tank, if so where's the best place to get a brand new one, there's no point in getting a second hand, thanks.

im looking at replacing my 02 sensor that is attached to the dump pipe and i came across this one on ebay what are peoples thoughts on it link is pasted below

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-Nissan-R33-Skyline-NX-NX-R-N14-N15-Pulsar-O2-Sensor-/150632217769?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2312613ca9

  • 3 weeks later...

I bought an aftermarket one off kudos motorsports which plugs straight in (highly recommended trader)

Didn't really improve my fuel economy but i do 90% city driving. I wonder whether the geniune item which is double the price can do a better job...

I bought an aftermarket one off kudos motorsports which plugs straight in (highly recommended trader)

Didn't really improve my fuel economy but i do 90% city driving. I wonder whether the geniune item which is double the price can do a better job...

It either works or it doesn't there isn't much to them. If it is working then buying another working one will produce basically identical results.

  • 3 weeks later...

Fellas:

100% confirmed that NGK / NTK part no: OZA395-E2 can fit in an r34 GT-T and does work.

100% confirmed the plug DOESN'T FIT, however the switch is extremely simple.

im getting MUCH better fuel economy since installing the Zirconia 3-Wire, 22mm O2 sensor for the 32 / 33.

stop paying $220 for the original one!!!

Tim

  • 3 weeks later...

Installed Power FC - doing basic setup for a tune as suggested in the Power FC FAQ.

Whenever I put it into closed loop mode it starts to idle really rough, A/F goes very rich on my wideband (12:1), and it barely drives. If I take it out of closed loop it runs richer than standard ECU but idles and drives normally.

I know closed loop relies on the oxygen sensor to trim fuel at steady accelerator levels - so does the above indicate it is stuffed? I did a sensor check at idle through the hand coontroller and it sat at 1.3 V. i revved it and it didn't change? Is it time for a new one?

Thanks,

Pete

Installed Power FC - doing basic setup for a tune as suggested in the Power FC FAQ.

Whenever I put it into closed loop mode it starts to idle really rough, A/F goes very rich on my wideband (12:1), and it barely drives. If I take it out of closed loop it runs richer than standard ECU but idles and drives normally.

I know closed loop relies on the oxygen sensor to trim fuel at steady accelerator levels - so does the above indicate it is stuffed? I did a sensor check at idle through the hand coontroller and it sat at 1.3 V. i revved it and it didn't change? Is it time for a new one?

Thanks,

Pete

yes

you may also be able to run a simulated output from your wideband to the ecu

Cool - thanks mate! I'll read the wideband manual regarding the simulated output function.

Also, does anyone know how the cheaper NGK ones compare to the more expensive OEM Nissan ones? I checked them both out on Kudos' site.

Thanks again!

**SORRY for the double post - didn't think the stupid phone uploaded the first one!**

Edited by Peter

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • These are small points I should actually add to my original post. GKtech makes an extended slave line for this conversion. It's what I use, and it works well. You'll also need a CD009 slave cylinder.  S/R Chassis Z33/Z34 Conversion braided clutch line As for transmission sensors, you'll need to both extend the wiring and replace the connectors. I can't recall which is which, but one is your neutral switch and the other the reverse switch. As they are just switches, just test for continuity with your transmission in neutral or reverse to figure out which is which. Connectors:  VQ35 neutral Switch Connector | Wiring Specialties VQ35 Reverse Switch Connector | Wiring Specialties 
    • I’ll try and see it could be the release bearing. As for the 4th gear grind maybe clutch doesn’t disengage properly cause it is slightly like very slightly hard to go into first could be due to the slab cylinder pin being short uni clutch is a twin plate.   Ive attached some assembly photos hopefully you can open the link and see maybe detect what’s wrong https://share.icloud.com/photos/0dc2YvW__Hl6jl-l2_0jejjpg https://share.icloud.com/photos/09e0jkWOK-vP48c1cfY6u3ViA https://share.icloud.com/photos/0b4rDmh5R7pK7fb1VtND73a3g https://share.icloud.com/photos/05eeUi_6dC4DVi80jOUYDgb0g https://share.icloud.com/photos/06335TgY1XxyIJal_wkdQLhzw
    • Yeah for sure that is peddle adjustment 
    • What are your thoughts on this after having it for a while, worth getting?
    • Downshifts are harder on transmissions than upshifts, the input shaft naturally slows down once disconnected from the engine so the synchros aren't doing all the work. There's no "natural" tendency for an input shaft to increase RPM. Something is not right there, I don't have a great answer on what. You can try a dedicated GL4 75W90, I plan to switch to Motorcraft XT-M5-QS which is supposedly a very good 75W90 for NB Miatas which have a weirdly sensitive transmission from the factory. I would chase down why your clutch is making a hissing noise, that's not normal. It might be no big deal but in the absence of anything else to investigate I would look at that.
×
×
  • Create New...