Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 year later...

well if anyone of the NEO ppl were hesitating about doing it, there is no excuse now

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-3-Wire-Universal-Oxygen-Sensor-O2-Easy-Fit-Kit-/120737660086?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c1c867cb6#ht_3120wt_1244

i bought the r33 one and cut the plug off (tried to be tricky and pull the pins out and swap them but they are slightly bigger in the r33 plug)

wish i had seen this, looks like the same sensor but cheaper again!

with the r33 sensor installed i got under 10l/100kms on the drive from tas-gold coast (yesterday)

Have any more Neo people run these? Looking to potentially buy one as my factory plug on both harness and O2 sensor have melted so would be much easier install with this kit

i was reading this topic the other day was through i would change mine in the stagea.

i change the sensor still dont know if it fix my fuel economy. driving around like normally

and it still used alot of fuel. i got a ngk one from ebay through...

i was reading this topic the other day was through i would change mine in the stagea.

i change the sensor still dont know if it fix my fuel economy. driving around like normally

and it still used alot of fuel. i got a ngk one from ebay through...

That's not too hopeful. I think my current O2 sensor is ok and will be trying to do a direct wire in this arvo but if I have any problems was hoping to grab that ebay one for $40

  • 1 month later...

So I have never had any problems with fuel economy in my car but went and got it tuned today and the tuner actually turned the O2 sensor off because it was going spastic.

He showed me on the computer once the throttle is touched the O2 sensor went from nothing to max voltage straight away and just generally all over the place.

I tried to directly wire my O2 sensor in the other day could this be a stuff up with my wiring?

  • 9 months later...

tested my o2 sensor today, c34 stagea at warm idle to 3-4k revs i saw 0.3 -0.45 while parked. multimeter grounded in rocker cover and positive probe on black wire on o2 which is the thick brown wire on loom.

not sure what i'm looking for to confirm its stuffed other then it not alternating, unless i'm ment to be seeing more then 0.5v with no load parked ?

who can confirm?

^ thanks noted, just not sure if they can be half stuffed or it will work 100% and just not work at all if broke.

might just grab a universal 3 wire sensor from vulture for $40 as they are ment to be changed a bit like spark plugs , i assume the thread on the dump pipe is the same for r32-r34 gtst?

Edited by Dan_J

^ thanks noted, just not sure if they can be half stuffed or it will work 100% and just not work at all if broke.

might just grab a universal 3 wire sensor from vulture for $40 as they are ment to be changed a bit like spark plugs , i assume the thread on the dump pipe is the same for r32-r34 gtst?

R33 and Neo are different

  • 2 weeks later...

^ thanks noted, just not sure if they can be half stuffed or it will work 100% and just not work at all if broke.

might just grab a universal 3 wire sensor from vulture for $40 as they are ment to be changed a bit like spark plugs , i assume the thread on the dump pipe is the same for r32-r34 gtst?

And then pay a little more and get an innovate wideband that has narrowband simulation for your ECU. Win win :)

  • 2 weeks later...

And then pay a little more and get an innovate wideband that has narrowband simulation for your ECU. Win win :)

Johnny are you using your WB as a NB simulator? If so how did you go about wiring it into the computer?

My NB has just blown so I going to use my techedge to simulate, it also has a function where I can alter the lean/ rich points so I can adjust stoich up or down for different fuels, or so I can target a leaner AFR

Wouldn't mind setting it up to hold 16:1 in closed loop, just to get better economy on cruise.

^ hey mate, I disconnected my narrowband in the engine bay and spliced the narrowband output from the innovate straight into the ECU harness.

There's no need to hook up the sensor ground and it worked really well. Not the first car I've done it to also, one thing I've noticed is that it "appears" to hit stoichiometric much quicker than factory narrowband O2s

Give it a crack you can't go wrong, in saying that I'm now running full closed loop fuel control with my wideband (running stand alone now woots)

I usually keep it stoich anything in vacuum up to atmospheric pressure (0.0psi), on cruise I'm a little cheeky and let it sit at 15.2

Best I've gotten out of 50L was 540km with the occasional squirt when I drove to Foster and back on 98 with the AC on most parts

  • 2 weeks later...

So when in closed loop I get a hi reading of 15.23:1 and a low reading of 14.39:1 for and average of 14.8:1

Did a run to the gold coast on the weekend and got 8.9 L/100Km ~ United P100

Might have another play with it and try to get an average closer to 15:1

gallery_89296_5394_98775.jpg

gallery_89296_5394_69245.jpg

Edited by Missileman

^ great job on the economy side - on very load & cruising RPM you could even lean it a a touch close to 15.5 if you're after economy.. however drop back the timing a little so keep the cylinders happy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, Sorry to butt in and take it slightly off course, although still on the VCAM subject.  I had VCAM put into my Tomei 2.8 bottom end and I struggle to take off because the engine has very little torque caused by VERY low dynamic compression at 60psi. But once off the mark and especially on boost, the engine rev happily all the way to 8000rpm and makes 630hp at 20psi of boost on E85 at the rear hubs. Has anyone had any similar experience or any suggestions on what might cause this low compression at low rpm? I am in the process of converting it into a 8hp transmission and with this low torque, the engine would not even stay running until the throttle is opened to more than 30% and then I loose all vacuum. 
    • Last year I got a set of MCA street coilovers for my turbo Forester after my son hitting a concrete gutter/wall on a small bridge causing the whole drivers side suspension to get bent because the rain just made the car slide out I love them, I think they were $2400. even had a hiccup of have the wrong hub configuration (my fault) so got onto MCA and they sent the correct shock ends overnight parts from QLD, for free!  I was very impressed with their customer service and quality of the product  
    • They've had some weird failures on their brake actuators. One of them was because they added some kind of lubricant to the factory fill brake fluid that aftermarket brake fluid didn't have so it would affect the seals. Another was just mysterious, probably internal corrosion or something eating away at Prius brake actuators. Parts alone for those are a few thousand USD so not a cheap fix.
    • Selling a genuine Nissan Skyline R33 Coupe 8-Pin Power Window Master Switch Part No. 25401-26U10 Price $300   IMPUL Gear Knob – Rare JDM Upgrade Upgrade your interior with this genuine IMPUL gear knob – a rare and stylish addition to any JDM build. Premium quality, perfect fit, and an authentic Japanese touch for your ride.  Price:$300 Nissan Skyline R33 (Series 2) Sedan Tail Lights Immaculate Condition OEM JDM S2 a pair of OEM Skyline R33 Series 2 sedan tail lights in excellent condition. These are becoming harder to find, especially in this state. Price:$900   Located in Melbourne (Western Suburbs) – Shipping available Australia wide at buyer’s expense. DM if you need anymore details.  
×
×
  • Create New...