Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nisasn want $280 for an R32 GTST O2 sensor. That sucks.

I'm hoping the R33 S1 O2 sensor is the same.

Graham West Dyno down in Adelaide apparently knows what aftermarket o2 sensor to use with the rb20det's. He quoted $130.

Edited by Cubes
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/8/#findComment-1792513
Share on other sites

So i just read the whole thread....

So coinfusing... People saying different things...

I currentlly have bosch 3 wire white/black/white

and i have bought an aca rox207

which has black/black/blue...

Im gonna hook up like this;

Nissan Ford

white------black

black------blue

white------black

Is this right???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/8/#findComment-1793618
Share on other sites

So your telling me after 21 pages you guys haven't figured out what is a cheap alternative to the stock sensor ... :(

I thought you would be able to get any sensor suitable for a turbo with same thread pattern..all 02 sensors read 0-1v and have a simlar "narrow" band of operation

Thats rough

Edited by benl1981
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/8/#findComment-1793630
Share on other sites

Ok.... instantlly heaps punchier....

After the engine warmed up it got really tweaky....

No excesive fuel out the back when i boot it....

Seem to be spooling sooner but not as hard at the top end....

Fuel will take time to figue out if its better.... As i was punching it heaps today hence a big drop in fuel....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/8/#findComment-1796124
Share on other sites

No excesive fuel out the back when i boot it....

Seem to be spooling sooner but not as hard at the top end....

The 02 sensor doesn't affect what you have imagined. :huh:

The 02 sensor is used to tweak afr's at light throttle cruise.

The ecu ignores its output once you stick your foot in to it.

Anything more than limping around it will turn off and use the values from the map within the ecu.

Edited by Cubes
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/8/#findComment-1796280
Share on other sites

Well thats what happened....

Seems to be using more fuel at this stage... But yeah as explained its more punchy and is not spewing fuel out the back...

I understand the function of a 02 sensor and have a apexi tt which measures and monitors o2 sensor voltage...

It changes all the time... Your ecu always reads the o2 sendor... Under full load you can reach around 4.3 volts

Idle you get down to 1.2v...

Either way you wanta look at it... The fact remains that it is smoother due to the old one not being able to read more than 3volts....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/8/#findComment-1796947
Share on other sites

Yer your way off Col-GTSX. Go back and do some more reading/googling.

Sorry Buddy. :D

The O2 sensor operates between 0 and 1v and trims the ecu's internal fuel map so the afr hangs as close as possible to stoich (14.7:1).

It can only trim so much, so if you raise fuel pressure or run larger injectors you will find it will simply not work and constantly idle and cruise very rich.

Should the o2 sensor die the ecu will run off the ecu's internal fuel map that is generally slightly on the rich side BUT within the o2 sensors capability to trim enough fuel out to bring the afr's to stoich.

1v being rich 0v being lean. From memory 0.9v is somewhere around 12:1.

The ECU only uses the o2 sensors output at light throttle positions. Nothing to do with wot so it WILL NOT make the slightest difference to fuel spewing out the back.

My RB30DET drops out of closed loop just after the TPS reads 1v.

1v is bugger all when it comes to throttle positions. It does vary slightly but almost always very close low 1v. This is the TPS (Throttle position sensor).

The highest I've seen the o2 sensors voltage hit on the pfc h/c is 1v at approx 4000rpm on the untuned rb25det pfc base map at WOT.

When it does this I do see fuel out the revision mirror if I catch it at the right time.

To help you understand the workings a little better you can have a look at a few datalogs I have taken via the datalogit a few weeks back.

Thats if you wish. :(

Edited by Cubes
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/8/#findComment-1797433
Share on other sites

I just given you the results...

I dont understand how it could change it so much...

Im just telling everyone what happened on my car... Checked with a volt meter

Yes it goes up to 4.3 volts...

Not saying i know more than you i just know whats happening on my car at the moment....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/8/#findComment-1798470
Share on other sites

col i've got the exact same o2 sensor as you... the rox one..

when you test it with a volt meter thingy your testing it at the actual wires coming off the o2 sensor right ??

is it possible you got the wrong o2 sensor ?? if its showing more than like 1v and your testing it at the actual o2 sensor it sounds like its not the correct sensor ???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/8/#findComment-1798518
Share on other sites

col have you got another sensor to test ??

it sounds like that one isnt the correct one..

It doesnt sound right that it could be something in your car stuffing up the o2 reading if your getting the wierd reading from the wires coming off sensor its self..

also i dunno bout that ox-207 one.. I know mine was rox-207 if that makes any differance......

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/8/#findComment-1799155
Share on other sites

LOL LOL LOL LOL

I made a boo boo...

I was actually testing from the ecu using a power meter in conjunction with my ID-III and it was showing afm voltages....

HAHAHAHAHAHA

The O2 sensor is fine.... Reading less than a volt... Very frequent changes between .3 & .6 area.... So my bad...

As for my results, they still remain the same...

NOTE: I am using more fuel but the new fc tune ill request for a nice easy tune not an outright power tune...

If i want speed ill jump on the R6....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/8/#findComment-1799769
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

hey guys just changed my o2 sensor with the rox-207 one....car started perfectly straight away unlike alot of people?...

i was getting about 280-320 km's out of a tank...ill let u guys/girls know how i go in a week whan i use a full tank.....hers hoping 400km's :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/8/#findComment-1910078
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Right, but that's in-cylinder, there's the interaction between that and the TWC which complicates things. Pulling out timing to reduce NOx is a strategy I saw in transitional emissions vehicles like stuff from 1974 or so. The two inlet runner system is interesting but I'm not sure it makes a huge difference as far as emissions goes, is it a tumble valve? I've seen stuff like that even in cars from the late 80s. 
    • Hello all,   so i recently swapped out my rb20de neo with an rb25de neo( engine,transmission, wiring and the diff everything) but i just cant get the gear indication light on the dash to work when i switch to tiptronic mode. Note there is a steering wheel switch beside the shifter and i dont have that. I did notice yesterday while switching to tiptronic that the indicator on the dash started to work but it didn't afterwards. Does anyone know how this actually works? Or do i still need that steering wheel switch to be connected and on for that gear indicator to work?
    • Hence why I said earlier that I don't think the turbo Neos ever would have actually qualified as an LEV. I suspect the only actual LEVs that came out of Nissan were the NA Neos. Still call them all Neos. They all stil have the Neo-ness. Just that they don't all qualify as as LEVs.
    • It will give gains, but you wont hit 600 It will give gains but it wont get you to 600 imo. You will also sacrifice low down and you will be adding extra volume if you port match it, more so if you port the plenum runners depending and how its done I think the only time youre going to see about 100hp gains is if the car is making well over 1k kw I do have a spare set that I was going to test with, but i dont actually think there is anything worth getting going larger. I did a fair few S14/S15 and the standard TB is fairly small, I went to 60 and in some cases 64mm which is significant over the stock unit. You can also get some weird ratio changes. I think 20kw will be a stretch on a roller dyno. If I had it apart I might mill the shafts a little and not expect much, I think the stock size is still pretty good for a street/track car even with larger capacity. I might change diameter it if its a drag only car
    • Was going to say something about flog, wife, pilates, behind but I better not... No dishonour here
×
×
  • Create New...