Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Alternately, does anyone know if I can post up the table somewhere on the forum and people can add to it as they find the information?

The best way to do that is post up a new thread in the FAQ section, once I or another mod approve it everyone can post new infor as it comes up

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/6/#findComment-1647281
Share on other sites

GTAAARRH,

an easy way to test if you have a dud O2 sensor it to plug in a Power FC and HC and look at the sensor check function. if you are up in sydney you can borrow mine for the 10 mins it takes.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/6/#findComment-1649388
Share on other sites

How does this sound?

An FAQ entry called "Oxygen (O2) Sensors"

My guess is that people are mainly interested in looking up an O2 Sensor FAQ to see which sensor fits their vehicle, so they will need quick access by model, motor etc.

The FAQ could have a table (or point to a web page with a table) that showed the series, model, motor and the official Nissan part number/s, known alternative part numbers (ie, ACA, NTK, Bosch etc), type (Zirconia or Titania), plug type (ie 3 or 4 pin or bare wires), sensor size, cable length and comments.

Why all the technical details? Because manufacturers can supply alternatives based on the sensor and plug type, cable length etc.

People could post new information, but only about which sensors fit what. It can then be moved up into the main table. The general discussion about fuel economy etc should stay in the General Maintenance forum.

I can't guarantee to update the FAQ every time there is a new posting because I have exams and assignments that have to take priority.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/6/#findComment-1649953
Share on other sites

randy i think you may have a throtle sensor problem or may need repositioning but i would give the O2 sensor a go first make sure to reset your ECU after the change. dont worry the brains trust on here should be able to nut it out and stop your beast from guzzling

Give the other one a go, you mean? The Ford EL one is in there now. Thanks man =-]

Skylinecouple: Cheers, might have to try the different one.

I'm building a consult cable, so hopefully i'll be able to see the TPS and O2 readings =-]

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/6/#findComment-1656033
Share on other sites

I bought one today, designed for the Ford EL harness - ACA brand Part number ROX207 at Bankstown Repco for $65. It actually has Denso Japan stamped on the actual sensor and looks alot like an oversized spark plug.

It has two black and one Blue wire.

I took it to my mechanic and he didnt want to install it saying 1 -its not a nissan part and 2 - harness is wrong so looks like I'm doing this myself tomorrow.

He also insists that the original o2 sensor is fine and if its broken the check engine light would turn on.

But I want better fuel economy than the 350k's I'm getting. I'm going to solder the wires myself as I do some electrical work.

I'll take SkylineCouple's advice - Blue goes to Brown and the two Blacks goes to the two whites. I'll post back my results next week after driving it for a bit.

FYI my car is very lightly modded only so far, engine wise its just exhaust, filter and boost

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/6/#findComment-1659598
Share on other sites

BTW: I used this part, and it made no difference for me, but whether or not the check engine light will come on is a different question. There is a light for the heat sensor in the cat, so i'd guess that the engine light won't come on for the 02 sensor. The consult software should tell me what the reading is on it.

Also, as mentioned a few times in this thread, the wire on the ROX207 cannot be soldered, you have to crimp.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/6/#findComment-1665048
Share on other sites

So RANDY, it made absolutely no difference for you?  I was hoping to replace my o2 on the R34.... hmmm!

Its only going to make a difference if your old sensor is dead or dieing. So you should test yours, not rely on whether its making a difference to other people :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/6/#findComment-1665609
Share on other sites

I queried earlier in this thread whether;

if the existing sensor is dead, and the ROX207 isn't compatible with some R33's, whether there would be no change at all? I would think so, looking at it logically.

Considering I have pretty much no mods, i'd expect better economy than what I have now. 350km out of 50L fill = 7km per litre. Terrible!

=-o

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/6/#findComment-1665676
Share on other sites

I don't see why the ROX207 would be fine for some R33 RB25DETs, and not for others. That doesn't make sense. If someone with access to FAST could confirm that the part number for the OEM O2 sensor is the same across all R33 RB25DETs then the ROX207 would either be suitable or not.

Considering I have pretty much no mods, i'd expect better economy than what I have now. 350km out of 50L fill = 7km per litre. Terrible!

=-o

No mods doesn't mean anything though. You could be loosing economy because of a poorly performing fuel system, for instance. Besides, we all know these cars run very rich on local fuel without re-tuning so that should be your first stop for decent fuel economy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/6/#findComment-1665734
Share on other sites

I summarised all the part numbers for O2 sensors from a non-current version of FAST in http://www.pcug.org.au/~jdeakins/facts.html

There are:

two part numbers for the 08/93 to 11/93 R33 RB25DET,

two part numbers for the 11/93 to 01/96 and 01/96 to 11/97, and

two part numbers for the 11/97 onwards.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/6/#findComment-1666708
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HUMVEE are fine in big open areas, but they are problematic on the street and tight areas As for reliability, some of the  US Army guys I have chatted with have said that when they were working they were fine, but, the do spend alot of time in workshops for multiple reasons, admittedly, they did get a hard time by the boys and girls who drove them I would definitely put them in the "buyer beware" category  They do look tough as nails though 
    • Just don't use ChatGPT or any other artificial stupidity for the equivalent of googling. Their demonstrated inability to discriminate reality from hallucination should be enough to make them totally untrusted. LLMs don't know anything and cannot think to even the smallest extent. They are just predictors of the next word, and that should never be confused with capability.
    • I think, given the usage model described in the OP, I'd never ever experience the wonders of the 400kW upgrade. What I really need is boost from 2000rpm and probably no more than 260-270rwkW. But I suspect that the highflow is not actually the turbo for that purpose, so I may in fact need to get a G25 or 30 or something right sized and very spooly. We shall see after it is tuned. I've had to back the boost and boost ramp off to stop the thing from pinging since the highflow went on, so I've been almost living the NA life for 9 months now! Injectors are recently in hand. AFM is in hand. Dyno is fixed. Just need to clear a queue of f**king Supras out of the way (and probably fit my new gearbox). So....some time this year? Lol.
    • For what I gather is a Sunday/summer car....braided is fine. You're not going to be left without a vehicle and you have plenty of time for inspection/maintenance. Oof. I wouldn't use them that way. They can probably handle the temperature** but the internal corrugations means that their flow characteristics are a bit shit. Lots of extra friction and pressure loss. Makes them flow like the next pipe size down. ** They are stainless, and the stainless can usually be at least something like 304L, which is pretty good at higher temperatures (unlike 316L, which I would use for a wrt/corrosive environment, but not a particularly hot environment). But the welding needs to be top notch. And even then, because you usually need at least one cone-seat end on them (because you can twist the hose and do up both ends at the same time unless one of them is a union) they can be prone to coming loose with heat cycles.
    • I don't have the OEM oil feed lines though and the turbo-wraparound line is torn, only has water. My plan is to get replacements for these and just connect a braided line to there. And make sure it's leak free. Hoses like these are also sometimes used to connect external wastegates, so for an EGR I think you're good using them.
×
×
  • Create New...