Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nisasn want $280 for an R32 GTST O2 sensor. That sucks.

I'm hoping the R33 S1 O2 sensor is the same.

Graham West Dyno down in Adelaide apparently knows what aftermarket o2 sensor to use with the rb20det's. He quoted $130.

Edited by Cubes
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/8/#findComment-1792513
Share on other sites

So i just read the whole thread....

So coinfusing... People saying different things...

I currentlly have bosch 3 wire white/black/white

and i have bought an aca rox207

which has black/black/blue...

Im gonna hook up like this;

Nissan Ford

white------black

black------blue

white------black

Is this right???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/8/#findComment-1793618
Share on other sites

So your telling me after 21 pages you guys haven't figured out what is a cheap alternative to the stock sensor ... :(

I thought you would be able to get any sensor suitable for a turbo with same thread pattern..all 02 sensors read 0-1v and have a simlar "narrow" band of operation

Thats rough

Edited by benl1981
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/8/#findComment-1793630
Share on other sites

Ok.... instantlly heaps punchier....

After the engine warmed up it got really tweaky....

No excesive fuel out the back when i boot it....

Seem to be spooling sooner but not as hard at the top end....

Fuel will take time to figue out if its better.... As i was punching it heaps today hence a big drop in fuel....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/8/#findComment-1796124
Share on other sites

No excesive fuel out the back when i boot it....

Seem to be spooling sooner but not as hard at the top end....

The 02 sensor doesn't affect what you have imagined. :huh:

The 02 sensor is used to tweak afr's at light throttle cruise.

The ecu ignores its output once you stick your foot in to it.

Anything more than limping around it will turn off and use the values from the map within the ecu.

Edited by Cubes
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/8/#findComment-1796280
Share on other sites

Well thats what happened....

Seems to be using more fuel at this stage... But yeah as explained its more punchy and is not spewing fuel out the back...

I understand the function of a 02 sensor and have a apexi tt which measures and monitors o2 sensor voltage...

It changes all the time... Your ecu always reads the o2 sendor... Under full load you can reach around 4.3 volts

Idle you get down to 1.2v...

Either way you wanta look at it... The fact remains that it is smoother due to the old one not being able to read more than 3volts....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/8/#findComment-1796947
Share on other sites

Yer your way off Col-GTSX. Go back and do some more reading/googling.

Sorry Buddy. :D

The O2 sensor operates between 0 and 1v and trims the ecu's internal fuel map so the afr hangs as close as possible to stoich (14.7:1).

It can only trim so much, so if you raise fuel pressure or run larger injectors you will find it will simply not work and constantly idle and cruise very rich.

Should the o2 sensor die the ecu will run off the ecu's internal fuel map that is generally slightly on the rich side BUT within the o2 sensors capability to trim enough fuel out to bring the afr's to stoich.

1v being rich 0v being lean. From memory 0.9v is somewhere around 12:1.

The ECU only uses the o2 sensors output at light throttle positions. Nothing to do with wot so it WILL NOT make the slightest difference to fuel spewing out the back.

My RB30DET drops out of closed loop just after the TPS reads 1v.

1v is bugger all when it comes to throttle positions. It does vary slightly but almost always very close low 1v. This is the TPS (Throttle position sensor).

The highest I've seen the o2 sensors voltage hit on the pfc h/c is 1v at approx 4000rpm on the untuned rb25det pfc base map at WOT.

When it does this I do see fuel out the revision mirror if I catch it at the right time.

To help you understand the workings a little better you can have a look at a few datalogs I have taken via the datalogit a few weeks back.

Thats if you wish. :(

Edited by Cubes
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/8/#findComment-1797433
Share on other sites

I just given you the results...

I dont understand how it could change it so much...

Im just telling everyone what happened on my car... Checked with a volt meter

Yes it goes up to 4.3 volts...

Not saying i know more than you i just know whats happening on my car at the moment....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/8/#findComment-1798470
Share on other sites

col i've got the exact same o2 sensor as you... the rox one..

when you test it with a volt meter thingy your testing it at the actual wires coming off the o2 sensor right ??

is it possible you got the wrong o2 sensor ?? if its showing more than like 1v and your testing it at the actual o2 sensor it sounds like its not the correct sensor ???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/8/#findComment-1798518
Share on other sites

col have you got another sensor to test ??

it sounds like that one isnt the correct one..

It doesnt sound right that it could be something in your car stuffing up the o2 reading if your getting the wierd reading from the wires coming off sensor its self..

also i dunno bout that ox-207 one.. I know mine was rox-207 if that makes any differance......

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/8/#findComment-1799155
Share on other sites

LOL LOL LOL LOL

I made a boo boo...

I was actually testing from the ecu using a power meter in conjunction with my ID-III and it was showing afm voltages....

HAHAHAHAHAHA

The O2 sensor is fine.... Reading less than a volt... Very frequent changes between .3 & .6 area.... So my bad...

As for my results, they still remain the same...

NOTE: I am using more fuel but the new fc tune ill request for a nice easy tune not an outright power tune...

If i want speed ill jump on the R6....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/8/#findComment-1799769
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

hey guys just changed my o2 sensor with the rox-207 one....car started perfectly straight away unlike alot of people?...

i was getting about 280-320 km's out of a tank...ill let u guys/girls know how i go in a week whan i use a full tank.....hers hoping 400km's :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43095-o2-sensor/page/8/#findComment-1910078
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
    • Some of them keep working fine. 9 out of 10 of them end up causing an absolute misery bleeding the system and get thrown on the workshop floor in a tantrum and never thought about again because they were never really needed and just added crap to the car that we could have done without. Same-same with HICAS, A-LSD, and various other stupidities that over eager 10x engineers thought we had to have.
×
×
  • Create New...