Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

I am in the market for a top mount steam pipe manifold with 44mm external pipe. I dont want a cheap <$500 one with terrible design and collectors like scrambled eggs. I am aware of 6 boost etc that offer good manifolds for >$1500,but surely there is a few people making manifolds for around the $900-1000 mark.

I'm looking at Go Pipes on facebook at the moment but would like more options. The main thing I want is neat even collector point.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431047-turbo-manifold-options/
Share on other sites

Last I checked 6-boost and ETM were both 1200-1300.

I have 2 mates who jumped on the merge collecor band wagon. Both which do them for the 800-900 dollar mark.

But my advice is go with 6 boost or ETM

They're are much neater and better fitting than the cheaper ones

your willing to spend $1000 on a manifold but not $200-$300 more on a 6boost?

I dont understand, they are amazing manifolds, proven over and over to increase response and power

Just remember $200 wont seem like much later on when/if you regret buying a different manifold

  • 2 weeks later...

Post up some pics of the manifold when you get it.

EDIT: just saw your post...... just go with the 6boost!!! $1300 is cheap.... Manifolds like mine go for $2500USD in the states. And from what i gather 6boost manifolds are like $2k!

I probably woulda dished out the extra $200-$300 for the 6boost but I haven't seen the Gopipes manifolds before.

Do they build them out of cast SS weld-el's? Fully backpurged? ported? what diameter runners?

My buddy just finished fabbing up my manifold this week. Twin Scroll T4, 2in diameter Runners, fully backpurged and ported. He build the collector himself instead of getting those dumb 6-1 premade ones. just need to place the gate this weekend and take it for ceramic coating.

1236410_10202131428910970_1040248122_n.j

1011654_10202131430991022_407224748_n.jp

1233632_10202130711013023_447571748_n.jp

Edited by R32N00B

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...