Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Heey i bougt a Bee-r from a well known trader here but i think it looks different then the regular bee-r limiters on pictures.

First thing what looks different is where the cables are coming out second is the cable which looks thinner

What do you guys think? Already mailed bee-r but they arent responding.

post-105921-0-48938500-1377863956_thumb.jpg

post-105921-0-43477700-1377863979_thumb.jpg

post-105921-0-78052300-1377863999_thumb.jpg

post-105921-0-88923300-1377864012_thumb.jpg

Edited by f5twister
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431079-is-this-bee-r-revlimitter-fake/
Share on other sites

from the pics it def looks like a knock off. Way different to mine.

1. Those loop lines are way too long

2. no heat shrink on those loop lines

just as a start but thats just my opinion. I got mine directly from jap land but not aware of any changes to the model.

see attached

post-2127-0-87900400-1377898635_thumb.jpg

Lol doesnt harm engine as much as stock limiter as long as gain isnt on the big bangs and overuse it

But please stay ontopic

So what's the point in having it?

Use your foot and brain and buy something useful for your car.

Total waste of money!

So what's the point in having it?

Use your foot and brain and buy something useful for your car.

Total waste of money!

Agreed

It all looks the same as some photos on google...

bee-r-racing-rev-limiter-model-30175-2-l

And it also looks like there are slight changes between them.

so youre saying that everyone with launchcontrol is a ricer and wants to get noticed ?

First of all these limiters are safer for a engine you can install les revss and you have no fuell cutt duo to cutting the spark signal,

thats why unburnt fuel detonates in the elbow, but as i said it would be fine if you dont turn gain up to high which some people do because they like they bang bang indeed and yes high gain and overuse can damage the engine but i said that my plans where not to use a high gain, so please stop bashing the limiter now and my choice to buy one its my car and my money Mkay?

Edited by f5twister
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Anything above ~9.5V is acceptable. The higher the better, but it will almost always drop to at least 10.5V, if not lower, even with a new big battery and everything else being good. 9.76 is not a concern. If it goes below 9, you'd be sure that there's a problem with either the battery or the connections.
    • It's new almost. Under a year old i think and I've tested it twice at supercheap
    • Glue the head from a Pez dispenser on it. Goofy, or Winnie the Pooh, so something.
    • Adjusting the idle screw is usually (emphasis on usually) just covering up deeper issues. Stuff like the cold start valve not closing properly. Throttle shaft seals on the way out. Coolant temp sensors getting out of spec. Coolant temp sensors especially can be a bear to diagnose because they can fail subtly. My dad just spent weeks chasing down his high idle. He cleaned the coolant temp sensor and everything but the resistance curve just drifts over time and if it's been 20+ years they also get super slow to respond as well. Has a massive effect on fuel economy as if it's off the ECU is going to run richer and command high idle for far longer than it should otherwise.
    • How old is the battery, it's more likely your battery is on its way out.
×
×
  • Create New...