Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day all,

Just fitted a new steering wheel to my 33 and was driving to work today and the HICAS light came on :eek:

I have heard from some people that this sort of thing can happen when an aftermarket wheel is fitted.

Can someone tell me what I can do to fix this or if it is anything to worry about at all???

Cheers,

Zacos

:lol: :lol: :lol: :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4311-hicas-light/
Share on other sites

Nismogirl,

The Boss kit I bought is HICAS compatible :P

'the light doesn't come on straight away....only after about 10Km.

Does anyone have any other suggestions as to what has gone wrong or If I just stuffed it (was very careful about putting it together)

any suggestions appreciated.

Zacos out

:burnout: :burnout: :burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4311-hicas-light/#findComment-68935
Share on other sites

We still have this problem. Do you notice that its when you are driving along a freeway... or somewhere where you aren't turning much? This is our problem and whenever we get on the freeway our hicas light comes on because the sensor in the steering wheel isn't making contact.

Or.. our first problem with our hicas came when the wire going from the back of the speedo to the computer wasn't connected. Also cutting out the abs, speed sensor and hicas.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4311-hicas-light/#findComment-71167
Share on other sites

The HICAS light only comes on when I am driving to work (along the freeway!!!!)

My only worry is that the alignment of the rear wheels may be affected when the light comes on, thereby trashing my rear tyres

:cool::P :P

Guess I will have to pull it apart and have a look!!

thanks for your help :P :P :P

later :burnout: :burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4311-hicas-light/#findComment-72597
Share on other sites

What the???:eek: :eek:

I wouldn't have thought that the HICAS and the turbo timer where related in any way.

Does the HICAS light turn off before the car does???

Because with my timer, if any thing is switched on/off (headlights, indicators, car put into gear) the car shuts down.

who knows.....I don't know enough about the workings of the turbo timer to be able to give any sort of informed answer. :) :)

anyone else got any ideas???

Later

:burnout: :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4311-hicas-light/#findComment-73009
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
×
×
  • Create New...