Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Last night at about 6:30pm someone attempted to steal my R33 gtst

Mooroolbark Victoria

They tried to pry my garage roller door open and luckily didn't manage to get inside before being spooked by neighbours.

A shifty looking guy has been hanging around for the last few weeks, this is the reason she's off the street and I've kicked my brothers new Audi out of the garage into the weather.

Seriously lock your cars up tight

I've made a bar lock that goes from front left rim to right rear rim under the car that locks in place with blast proof locks, leaving the car unable to turn or roll.

If you want one

Call me 0402185982

- Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431131-warning-skyline-thefts/
Share on other sites

What stops them from taking your wheels off? Or does it just poke through the spokes rather than bolsters to them?

So the bars poke out through the rim and have a plate that's slid on before you lock it down.

I suppose they could remove your wheels, but the time and effort involved is to risky, I also supply security wheel nuts to stop them removing the wheel to start with.

Another product if your worried is a quick release positive battery terminal cable that un clips from your cars existing cable.

It's got a rubberised sleeve to stop the metal joiner touching anything whole driving but can be removed by simply removing the pin and un clipping it.

Leaving your car with no power to start.

This gets annoying say if you have a preset audio selection on your stereo, but is another sure way to keep the car safe.

Is your garage directly on the street or at the back of a driveway?

I'm astonished that these Gts-t's are still targeted so hard! Don't get me wrong, I love mine, but they're hardly worth anything these days, and there are plenty of other cars to steal out there..

Is your garage directly on the street or at the back of a driveway?

I'm astonished that these Gts-t's are still targeted so hard! Don't get me wrong, I love mine, but they're hardly worth anything these days, and there are plenty of other cars to steal out there..

Yeah I don't get it

Parts aren't worth much?

What's the point?

My garage is at the back of the driveway

Im guessing its bot the price but the easy market to pass the parts on to. For example if they stole a bmw how many people would honestly be looking for those parts?

Well yeah the price of a 2nd hand Evo 8 Exhaust, compared to a 2nd hand R33 exhaust... Price is about double for the skyline parts

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Gday, Due to not finding much up to date info on this topic I thought I'd make a thread to get peoples latest opinions/recommendations. Background info -  I've got a S1.5 R33 GTST as a fun project car, mainly for street use and occasional drag strip, apart from all the cosmetic things I'll be doing a full rebuild of the engine with forged internals. Since it'll be getting new cams (kelford) and springs to match I thought I might as well get new lifters and valves while I'm at it, the dash says 160k KMs but the engine seems pretty tired, compression measures about 130psi across all cylinders so I'd like to freshen everything up. This is where I'm tempted to just fork out the extra and go solid lifters while it's all apart, aiming for 400-450kw atw with a flex tune. Assuming all supporting mods (oiling, fuel and all bolt ons) with a lightly ported head and turbo to match (yet to make a decision possibly gtx3582r or similar from Hypergear) I've seen the Tomei kits with just the buckets getting around, Supertech sells most things - Supertech High Performance Cam Followers | Trusted Racing Cam Followers Questions -  Has anyone found the Hydraulic lifters to limit them at this power level? Is it usually found that you can just clean the stock lifters and find they work fine?  Does going solid lifters save any headaches/issues with hydraulic lifters in the future? Any recommendations on other things that will need to be replaced, I know I'll need to get the solid profile cams but can you use the same type of valves and springs/retainers and is it recommended to change the guides and stem seals?    Summary -  Basically looking for pros/cons and wanna know if I'll actually need the extra RPMs from solid lifters or it'll just be bragging rights to say it ReVs OvEr 8000 Cheers
    • Ha ha ha, this stuff they had was installing Toshiba PLCs that were made some time in the 1990s, and they were replacing GEM80 PLCs. To let those two talk (staged upgrade along a ~1.2km long building that was split into 4 sections), was a bunch of WinXP machines running Java gateways... There was no way to put something like ProfiSafe in... Most of the HMI machines were WinXP, with Java program, with a custom button board emulating a keyboard... About the only buttons in the operator stations that went direct to the PLCs was the eStop. There was some interesting design stuff in that place...
    • Stock bypass valves are good for plenty of boost.
    • Check for fuel flow out of the outlet end of the rail. Check for spark. Try to start with aerostart (or pressure can brake cleaner or similar solvent in a car) prayed in through TB. If you have fuel and you have spark and it will fire on substitute fuel, then seriously suspect that E85 sitting for ages in your fuel system has destroyed something and put it in your injectors.
    • Nissan stock oil pressure is typically about 1 bar at 1000 rpm plus about 1 bar per thousand revs on top.
×
×
  • Create New...