Jump to content
SAU Community

Mugabetown - Whoretownin' At It's Worst.


Recommended Posts

well there waz not too much going on

It was a slow day. News of interest: I bought another R33 Gts25t s2 for parts to build up Titan's old car with. Talk about a Crisis... I now want to build both b/c 2nd is straight too. Hmmmmm what to do

It was a slow day. News of interest: I bought another R33 Gts25t s2 for parts to build up Titan's old car with. Talk about a Crisis... I now want to build both b/c 2nd is straight too. Hmmmmm what to do

Oh you bought Titan's old R33 shell?

Interesting, I guess a bare shell is a good way to go for that. (I was curious as to why the bare shell VS a runner already)

It's pretty empty interior wise though isn't it?

How far out is the second one you bought?

Second series 2 I bought for parts was complete minus rims, engine, gearbox and diff. Everything else complete. Titan's car still has full interior minus instrument cluster, I have replaced all suspension and got rolling already, missing doors, engine, trans, couple of other bits and pieces. Titan can go through list, but it is missing random stuff like sun sensor in dash. This is why the dilemma.

Sounds more like the new car is going to be the better one to build up from my mind... :S

But then again, haven't seen either...

Also Spool 3.4L stroker... ;)

I'm good mates with Andrew from Nitto, so I'm going with Nitto 3.2 components. Fastest RB30 uses Nitto - VLGOD. Have a look at this link in detail, it takes a while to load though http://www.trinituner.com/v3/forums/viewtopic.php?t=498199

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Ah, fair enough. For the IAT, I'm using a legit GM sensor that was used on the car prior to my current build. I'll get another wideband and IAT ordered and follow up when they show up. Thanks for the help.
    • You shouldn't need to massively fatten up the mixtures for cold conditions. For one thing - 0°C is not that cold. For another, the Haltech will be using the IAT sensor to tell it how dense the air air, and calculate the correct amount of fuelling. Then the cold start enrichment is added as a % on top of that, so it should scale with the main fuelling. You might also doubt the IAT sensor at this time. You're not using one from an RB26 are you? Using a nice Bosch sensor or similar? Happens. Some wideband units take great pleasure in killing their sensors. Put another wideband in the tailpipe and compare. Or just swap the sensor to a brand new one and see.
    • Oh, my misunderstand. When the car was running, it sounded ok, but if I gave it any gas it wanted to die but caught itself afterwards. It's very different from how it was a couple months ago when it was warmer outside. The logs show that the AFRs are better during, what I assume, is warmup enrichment. Because it's cold, and air is more dense, should I work on the enrichment bit?
    • yess of course im not using 2nd hand parts from my spare engine, but the place where i live is hard to find parts for the RB20DET ,but for the RB20E is everywhere including new ones and a lot cheaper ,because for the RB20DET you have to order it overseas to get one and it cost a lot of money 3x the price to be exact. so i ask this topic because if i can use the new ones but for RB20E is it compatible or not. if not im screwed haha, not totally screwed but i have to save a lot of money first before i can begin repairing my engine, thanks for the information before.
    • Unless my sensor just died, was only a couple months old, I strongly believe it didn't. How can I test it? I never mentioned it being 20:1+?
×
×
  • Create New...