Jump to content
SAU Community

Mugabetown - Whoretownin' At It's Worst.


t5iv
 Share

Recommended Posts

So problem number one............

There is a knocking noise from the rear when I brake or put the car in reverse. The best way I can describe is like backlash from within rear driveline, a bit like a weight being pushed forwards then going backwards. Its not a harsh noise.

I have had this problem ever since I have owned the car.

It does not happen all the the time but I would like to get rid of this pesky issue.

Im thinking the rear diff is the culprit.

Anyone have any thoughts?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So problem number one............

There is a knocking noise from the rear when I brake or put the car in reverse. The best way I can describe is like backlash from within rear driveline, a bit like a weight being pushed forwards then going backwards. Its not a harsh noise.

I have had this problem ever since I have owned the car.

It does not happen all the the time but I would like to get rid of this pesky issue.

Im thinking the rear diff is the culprit.

Anyone have any thoughts?

How olds the diff, could be getting play in it and you're hearing the slop as it goes from forward to reverse and back again

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How olds the diff, could be getting play in it and you're hearing the slop as it goes from forward to reverse and back again
no idea Nick.

Probably as old as the car itself

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't know about Cusco.

What I do know is that most 1.5 / 2 way jap diff tend to be a bit tough and clunky (friction plates)

With helical there is none of that and therefore is just smoother and runs quieter

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Diffs are a bridge i'll have to cross at some point soon-ish i think.

You'll have to re get your exemption won't you?

Also, I have a hard decision to make. GC hinterland or Mt Nebo

Up tambo, down tambo, up Oreilleys... ah f**k this roadworks and the 1 lane road, back down Oreilleys, up tambo, down tambo...

Stopped in at Cedar creek on the way back down too, i think i'll have to bring boardies and a towel next time.

If I had today off I would come with you Pete

I'm not sure my car's good enough to be seen with yours (once you get it finished at least!)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Diffs are a bridge i'll have to cross at some point soon-ish i think.

Up tambo, down tambo, up Oreilleys... ah f**k this roadworks and the 1 lane road, back down Oreilleys, up tambo, down tambo...

Stopped in at Cedar creek on the way back down too, i think i'll have to bring boardies and a towel next time.

I'm not sure my car's good enough to be seen with yours (once you get it finished at least!)

probably one of the most underated mods you could do IMO.

Will do front one too after my bank account recovers.

Zac will be busy.

Well she is kinda finished. I'm even taking it with me to work FTM.

Just need to respray rear bar.

My car would be fine with yours or any other Nissan. Just no commodores

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Latest Posts

    • There is a LOT of stuff that can be done, it all depends on how much time and money you want to spend on doing in.  Not all ECUs will be able to do it, and the more control you need the more time and knowledge needs to be put into making it work.  If you're willing to spend the time and money and have the right hardware and skills involved there's a lot that can be done. 
    • I am impressed with all this level of adjustment. I didn't expect all this possibility
    • Correct.  In the case of the 500kw dyno plot I showed you the car actually runs two boost control solenoids for boost control and a 5psi wastegate spring.  It allows me to control how much boost pressure is applied to both sides of the wastegate valve at any point and fairly accurately control boost target as a result. I've tuned it so that it's able to target anywhere from 5psi to 25psi depending on what's needed.  The target tables I've set up in that car are Gear vs RPM, so every gear has potential for a different boost (and torque) curve.   First and second gear have quite low boost targets, third gear actually has different target boost all the way through the rpm range as it's a stock RB25 gearbox - the boost targets have been chosen to maintain a peak of 600nm (what the owner has set as the maximum torque he's happy with putting through the stock 3rd gear) but it carries that to the rev limiter.   The boost curve to achieve that is something of a ramp up, then hold, then ramp up again and the power curve looks more like a flat line haha.  
    • so you can decrease or increase the boost depending on the diet as you wish?     by acting on the wastegate?
    • That's torque and power, it's all from a single run.  The boost curve is "held back" from it's peak target in the 3500rpm to 5000rpm range from memory, so it ramps hard to something like 18psi then climbs more progressively to 23psi nearer 5000rpm.   It makes the torque (and power) ramp more "natural" and less hard on parts and traction, it doesn't feel artificially held back.   
×
×
  • Create New...