Jump to content
SAU Community

Mugabetown - Whoretownin' At It's Worst.


Recommended Posts

Yeah. Doesn't matter about shaft play etc, they just need it to be in reasonably working order.

They just need the housings to not be f**ked, can even have all the blades missing.

So after an evening of pondering intercooler stuffs, i think i may have figured out the "but stock gtr cooler is good for 400kw's!" thing.

A few people have commented that they can't do back to back power runs on the dyno with them, so it seems like the stock one is plenty big enough of a heat sink for a little bit of a squirt, but then its way to oversaturated with heat to keep the job up afterwards.

The question is, is an ARC one going to be any better (only 10mm thicker, but better fin design?) or should I go for a bigger one down the road instead of hanging out for an ARC one...

I have an ARC. I have no heat soak issues. In a GTR coolers defence driving is quite different to being on a dyno in front of a fan. Intercooler would be low on my priority list

You're quite right, you'll be getting more airflow on the open road. However, there still has to be a limit to it, although that's going to be depending on a lot of factors. ambient temp, power, how much power is being used, how often, and for how long. I honestly don't know the answer and short of sticking a temp sensor into the outlet of the cooler i'm not sure i will know.

However, that being said, Sean did recommend a new cooler. And i'd like to get one now that will be good for 400kw down the road. So I dunno.

So after an evening of pondering intercooler stuffs, i think i may have figured out the "but stock gtr cooler is good for 400kw's!" thing.

A few people have commented that they can't do back to back power runs on the dyno with them, so it seems like the stock one is plenty big enough of a heat sink for a little bit of a squirt, but then its way to oversaturated with heat to keep the job up afterwards.

The question is, is an ARC one going to be any better (only 10mm thicker, but better fin design?) or should I go for a bigger one down the road instead of hanging out for an ARC one...

I'm running Chinese quality FMIC costing $300/$400

As Bunts said tis a lower priority than other mods on you're list

You're quite right, you'll be getting more airflow on the open road. However, there still has to be a limit to it, although that's going to be depending on a lot of factors. ambient temp, power, how much power is being used, how often, and for how long. I honestly don't know the answer and short of sticking a temp sensor into the outlet of the cooler i'm not sure i will know.

However, that being said, Sean did recommend a new cooler. And i'd like to get one now that will be good for 400kw down the road. So I dunno.

rule of thumb goes like so

300rwkw stock cooler ok

Anything over get a bigger cooler as the car / turbos will generate more heat that's what I used

Car was making 285kw's on 98, so I dam well hope its making over 300 on E85... I think i'll upgrade now.

I've been making up a bit of a spreadsheet of all things i want to do to the car, with prices and whatever other info I want to put in there, just so i can organise my head and jot down stuff so i don't forget it.

Shits expensive. UP to 25K already.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • And 90% of the time those people turn out to be wrong anyway. But they still treat themselves as a victim...
    • I used the radium thing, makes the whole parallel assembly a lot more compact compared to any other way of doing it 
    • Racetronix also sells those ethanol content sensor bypass blocks. Adapter, Flex-Fuel E85 Sensor High-Flow Bypass, In-line No Sensor (ADF-FLEX-NS): Adapters - Flex Fuel | Racetronix Ethanol content sensor are originally designed to be on the feed line. These bypass blocks are meant to be ran in the feed line and not return. The continental ethanol content sensors have a 3/8" ID and not 5/16". This is why they are ran on the return line directly in conjunction with a low threshold sampling value VS in the feed with one of these blocks.    Haha we think alike, I used both original feed/return for 8AN feed, and one of the Hicas lines as a 6AN return. I also capped off and left the other Hicas line as a spare. 
    • Interesting, I haven't read about the issue with oil getting into the speedo in the cluster before. I'll have to take more notice with mine. The speedo on my R32's when I've run factory diff and tyre size have never been accurate as far as I can remember. The non Type-M GTS-t did come with 15" 5 stud wheels and smaller brakes, but that's less than 5% of them.
    • Good to hear the condenser you picked up off my brother worked all good. Do you think there could be an issue with your AC compressor itself or the clutch on it then? I don't know a lot about them so I can't really help but keen to hear what it ends up being. Keep the build thread going man, it's nice to look back on over time.
×
×
  • Create New...