Jump to content
SAU Community

Mugabetown - Whoretownin' At It's Worst.


Recommended Posts

Cheers Ants, Couldnt download on the phone, but works on the computer, damn phone!

Looks like a good list Pete. Few things to consider, Link g4s are a good computer and can be had under a grand if you keep an eye out, for the oil pump see if you can get a hold of billet gears to go in the stock pump, cheap and so far totally bomb proof in mine. what manifold is costing over 2k? :0 the Crank trigger kit costs around $700, you will need an ATI balancer too.

Yeah, all parts are still up in the air.

Wolf is only 1200 bucks for the ECU IIRC, the extra cost is for the actual in line ethanol sensor for the flex setup. But ECU is still very much up in the air.

Oil pump gears might be an idea actually.

Manifold for 2K is one of the sexy sexy Fullrace ones. May not end up going down that route of course, but sexy.

Yeah, all parts are still up in the air.

Wolf is only 1200 bucks for the ECU IIRC, the extra cost is for the actual in line ethanol sensor for the flex setup. But ECU is still very much up in the air.

Oil pump gears might be an idea actually.

Manifold for 2K is one of the sexy sexy Fullrace ones. May not end up going down that route of course, but sexy.

Yeah the full race manifolds are porn. Fecking exxy though especially if you end up getting them coated etc. I saw this one the other day which looks pretty good. Local, twin gate set up already coated etc and much cheaper.

http://www.hioctanedirect.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=89_90&products_id=2447

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I have one and it was at ~43.5PSI.
    • Put a pressure gauge on the fuel rail.
    • I've uploaded logs / the current map to Gdrive if anyone has any ideas. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1FPnr22Z-EilG7tYdHSi0Qb07P2jfFLKV?usp=sharing
    • I'm running a Haltech Platinum Pro with the stock map for the RB20DET + tweaks for my build. When I started it this morning, the IAT was at 32F/0C (Outside temp was ~42F) and the AFRs went off the scale for my AEM gauge. I let it run for ~30 seconds then turned it off. I then did a smoke test, by hooking into a vacuum line directly behind the throttle body, and confirmed there was no leaks ( i let the smoke tester run for ~5 minutes / confirmed it was generating smoke before hand ). I then started the car again, after fixing a power steering leak.... and it seemed to be happy for ~30 seconds (was at ~11/12), but then seemingly shot back up to ~18 again. I then let the car run for a few minutes, thinking this was just cold start related, but the AFRs never came back down. I didn't let the car fully warm up, so maybe this makes sense, but I'm not sure what to do? The AFRs, when I last ran it, were normal, but because of personal reasons I haven't been able to break in the car. It was rebuilt last year. Engine / Mod list: Supertec pistons Spool rods Kelford 270 cams and Springs Stock crank Deatschwerks 900cc injectors Walbro 255 (Wired directly to the battery relocated in the trunk) NKG Audi R8 Coil packs + Conversion Harnesses from Wiring Specialties Holset HY35 turbo Haltech Platinum Pro ECU Haltech boost controller (wired in for high boost RB25 Neo transmission + needed bits for the speedo to work  
×
×
  • Create New...