Jump to content
SAU Community

Mugabetown - Whoretownin' At It's Worst.


Recommended Posts

We make a lot of significant' stuff for mining projects (and import a fair share more of it too, to be fair), its just that that isn't a sustainable manufacturing industry.

im sorry do you want us not too post so u can follow???

If you would be so kind :yucky:

Sorry if i rubbed you up the wrong way there, but it twas a busy day in here yesterday

We make a lot of significant' stuff for mining projects (and import a fair share more of it too, to be fair), its just that that isn't a sustainable manufacturing industry.

If you would be so kind :yucky:

Sorry if i rubbed you up the wrong way there, but it twas a busy day in here yesterday

Deemed too expensive.

Ideas on a 30/25 n/a?

Been done with the better rb26 head, forged hi comp with itbs went 170~rwkw.... 10g for 170rwkw is farken dumb.

Then again look at what I built, if you want it do it

I WANs gonna just pretty much set it all up as the 30/25 then when off my p,a drop the turbo on and such

Been done with the better rb26 head, forged hi comp with itbs went 170~rwkw.... 10g for 170rwkw is farken dumb.

Then again look at what I built, if you want it do it

Nick's right. The machining costs alone are astronomical. It has been done time and time again and the results quite frankly sucked.

You can't have turbo compression on an n/a built motor either, the thing would be a pig.

Just don't do it, NA's need hi comp to make power, more compression = bigger explosion = more skids.

My new motor will be built to the highest comp I can go and still run 98 octane

I wasn't gonna do it just wanted opinions and now I know the past failures of people I won't do it haha il just get everything ready for when I get off my p's and yeah

For the least headaches, source an RB25t and start by getting it cleaned and machined. These motors can make big power and cheaply, as many want to do an RB26.

Just don't do it, NA's need hi comp to make power, more compression = bigger explosion = more skids.

My new motor will be built to the highest comp I can go and still run 98 octane

Interested in a billet rotor, Teflon coated, Teflon sealing strips, magnesium 14/71 Mooneyham blower??

I wasn't gonna do it just wanted opinions and now I know the past failures of people I won't do it haha il just get everything ready for when I get off my p's and yeah

They weren't failures, they performed exactly as is to be expected form a natro 3L. Don't get me wrong 170rwkw is farken impressive for what it is, but not for how much it cost especially with no option of progressing.

Like I know I'm not making big power but the potential is there, whereas with this thing.... Well, ur at it's upper limit, u can't put nitrous on it cause it'll ping it's head off and you can't turbo it for the same reasons/u wanted an NA.

Just bad, bad bad bad.....

Interested in a billet rotor, Teflon coated, Teflon sealing strips, magnesium 14/71 Mooneyham blower??

14/71 dear god he wants all the supermacharger lol. And nah man, Natro power all the way to me, it's more satisfying to make 400rwkw natro than 500 with a supercharger/turbo (yes I'm an idiot) :thumbsup:

14/71 dear god he wants all the supermacharger lol. And nah man, Natro power all the way to me, it's more satisfying to make 400rwkw natro than 500 with a supercharger/turbo (yes I'm an idiot) :thumbsup:

You make a lot more than that with this one. I had for a pro street 500ci

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Another thought on this OLD topic: When you paint your bonnet lip, leave a small unpainted back lip/line along the back of the lip, where it rests on the bumper. That way, the line in the back is much more prominent than the gaps in the front/under the lip - and it breaks the hood-to-bumper connection at the "correct" place, when comparing to a GTR. I'm gonna do this with mine this week, so stay tuned for pics!
    • So I'm in the final stages of assembling my single turbo RB30/26 and had a question regarding MAP reference points.  I've seen several recommendations such as tapping the cylinder 2/3 ITB, tapping the intake manifold at cylinder 2/3, or using a point on IAC. First two are doable but require permanently modify part and the third is "out" as I plan to delete the IAC.  All that to say my question is can I used the "bleeder" in the center of the ballance tube as a MAP Reference? I'm running a catch can so I don't need it for the PCV system. My thought process is it "pulls" from all 6 cylinder, and it's between the ITB and the cylinders making it ideal for MAP reference according to what I can find. Thoughts?
    • Some sense has prevailed! What kind of idiot spends money on intake, heads, and cams for a N/A motor in 2025? Lol. What maroons. Source:I am King Maroon.
    • So, cams are not getting installed......yet  Had a good chat with MX5 Mania about intakes, they recommend not to get ITB's, they recommend a plenum style for the NC So, one of these puppies is being ordered, with a larger TB to suit, when it arrives from the US the car will go in for the cams and intake I'm also getting a fancy rear box bit for the air filter box which will suit the new TB size
    • Clamp meter is pointless. Unless you're trying to keep average current under a set value for some weird reason (maybe you undersized your wiring?), then you'll get no useful info. What you're really trying to target is the flow of fuel coming back to the tank. You want some, but not a lot. You also want to make sure fuel pressure remains stable.   So, fuel pressure gauge, and fuel flow gauge. Set it up from that.
×
×
  • Create New...