Jump to content
SAU Community

Mugabetown - Whoretownin' At It's Worst.


Recommended Posts

Car was making 285kw's on 98, so I dam well hope its making over 300 on E85... I think i'll upgrade now.

I've been making up a bit of a spreadsheet of all things i want to do to the car, with prices and whatever other info I want to put in there, just so i can organise my head and jot down stuff so i don't forget it.

Shits expensive. UP to 25K already.

does this include head work Pete?

Would love to review you're spreadsheet PM me if you can

Needs more pool fence.

Well, i mean, it looks great without more pool fence but needs it. dam regulations

first thing I thought......how no fence? it doesnt look like an old pool.

Nice!. LED's are rad.......but pool lights in general are a bad thing :( they never last

Yeah i did the same thing. Terrifying isnt it.

From all the options I laid out i think the best bang for buck gtr wise is -9s with supporting mods, overfill the oil and go nuts on brakes and suspension and tyres. 300-330kw responsive as hell and fairly reliable if you pick up a late model 32 with the updated crank.

Enough to have loads of fun on the street and on track but not so expensive that you're shitting yourself every time you're on track or you break stuff every time it gets taken for a drive.

Thats what I'm looking for in my next one, maybe some time next year.

Yeah ideally we'd all be able to afford 450kw monsters but unfortunately thats not the case.

Cost/benefit wise how much happier will you be with 400kw than with 300kw? Or even 200kw?

Not to mention the opportunity cost of spending 40k on a gtr vs investing it in something that will give you a return.

Sorry for being a bit of a downer lol

Yeah ideally we'd all be able to afford 450kw monsters but unfortunately thats not the case.

Cost/benefit wise how much happier will you be with 400kw than with 300kw? Or even 200kw?

Not to mention the opportunity cost of spending 40k on a gtr vs investing it in something that will give you a return.

Sorry for being a bit of a downer lol

nope. You are just thinking what most others are mate.

I agree. Aiming for 400+kw is not gonna be cheap either way you look at it.

Plus after you go beyond 450rwkw things start to shit itself ie transmission, driveshafts

I like to keep the power levels (for Skyline GTR) pegged at 446kw / 600hp that's enoughto scare the shit outa you and maintain a good balance between power and reliability

But that's just my opinion

I'll probably start a build thread and attach something when I get back from work tonight. Some figures are hand wavy, like head work, others are more precise. Realized when I went to bed last night that I forgot to include costs for a crank trigger, but that's what this list is for.

as far as money goes, I'm not going to be doing the expensive engine work until probably the end of next year, and I'm putting away savings 2:1 to investment:car in that time, so yeah, I'd rather spend it on the car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Please do not connect it to your manifold. If you do, as GTS suggested please record the lot in 4K with good mics attached.   On the factory Skyline, there's a upside down pipe that allows it to breathe, looks like this   
    • For me I'd need some serious justification for why it has blown out.  Have you questioned him on it?  To be honest if you didn't question him right from the get-go on the first invoice that was already way over the initial quote and then you've (presumably) then paid another $1375 on top of the first invoice, then you're pushing shit uphill to get a favourable result now... It was years ago I last got an engineer out but it was around $450-$550 per visit.  That was just to inspect each progress point he gave me for the project.  Is he just doing progress inspections or is he providing engineering diagrams, technical assistance, etc??  If he's not, he's a filthy rip off merchant.  If the $3100 is the final sign off then you need to cop it on the chin, pay it and move on.  If it's not, piss him off and get a new one.  Not many Jeeps I'd value at $10K full stop let alone just engineering fees on a written off, half actual value WOVR Jeep....
    • Oh, yes. If you connected it to the manifold your first drive would be very eventful. Very shit. Very interesting. Perhaps take a video if you feel the need to see. Terminating the breather at the top of the bellhousing is normal/stock. Some gearbox lubes (hello Redline Shockproof) like to foam up a bit and require the breather to be extended up higher, so you don't get spots of smurf jizz staining the floor under your car. Mine is thus right up behind the head. Make sure you fit a u-bend at the top so it points back downward so that dirt and schmutz has a harder time getting into it.
    • Cheers for the replies. So i don't connect it to the manifold I just run the hose high up on the firewall?
    • It doesn't really answer your question...but is the head unit full android or just android auto, are you happy with how quickly it boots and responds, and do you have a link?  If we can identify good Android alternatives it will really help people stuck with Japanese screens. Did it have a separate reverse camera input so you would replace the factory one, or are you just going without now...that would be a pretty big steps back. And finally, do you have a picture of the "wire" that you can't plug in? Most likely it is some sort of aerial that is not too important eg japanese traffic or am radio or something if you haven't noticed a functionality issue
×
×
  • Create New...