Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25 Neo Turbo Spec

MetalKingRB20

By MetalKingRB20,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

MetalKingRB20 Newbie

MetalKingRB20

Posted
Posted

I have bought an R32 GTS-T and i was told by the guy i bought it off that it had a RB25 neo turbo/ an op6 on it. i had it on the dyno today and bumped it from 8 psi to 13 psi and it went from 127Kw to 166Kw but i still dont know if the turbine wheel is ceramic or not. i need to know if i can keep running it at 13 psi or not does anyone know if they came out only with ceramic wheels or is there a steel turbined op6.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431289-rb25-neo-turbo-spec/
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

However, disregarding the aspect of luck involved in whether a ceramic turbo will die or not, running an R34 turbo on an RB20 at 13 psi is actually going to require less shaft speed than running an RB20 turbo at that boost, and also less than running it at 13 psi on an RB25. What this means is that you will be putting it under less stress and it will be safer than either of those cases.

I ran an RB20 turbo on my RB20 at 13+ psi for many years and it was still fine when I did my engine swap. The current Neo turbo appears to be quite happy at 12 psi, although I don't flog it hard and it hasn't been long and bad luck can happen at any time. Luck of the draw, your milage may vary, etc etc.

Havnig said the above, I hesitate to believe that you have an OP6 turbo (which can either be a VG30 or an R34, and they are slightly different) because at 13psi it should make a shit tonne more power than 166rwkW. I would have thought more like 180+.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Alpha omega racing bracket

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes, but no. You need to keep the mating surfaces bare (ie the flat faces where the caliper and upright pads touch the dogbone) and also the internal threads will remain bare (unless there are no internal threads - do they use nuts on all the bolts?). So you can slow down obvious external corrosion, but not all of it. Anodising would be required to provide decent protection to the alloy, but I'm not actually sure if you should anodise something that is all about the strength. Anodising does reduce strength significantly. Like, up to 50% on some alloys for high thickness coating.
    • drifter17a
      Alpha omega racing bracket

      By drifter17a · Posted

      Thanks   does painting on aluminium work or stop them from corroding?
    • GTSBoy
      Alpha omega racing bracket

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      'Sgot nothing to do with them being Japanese. The climate in the north of Japan has similarities to the UK - the cars are made in the knowledge that they have snow and salt, and they rot there. Cars made in the US rot like buggery in the US. British cars have always rotted regardless of the weather. They will rot indoors in a climate controlled bubble! The brackets are not unsafe yet, but they will get that way. They may well corrode where the bolt threads are in contact and the bolts could just jump out without warning.
    • drifter17a
      Alpha omega racing bracket

      By drifter17a · Posted

      So unsafe would you say now?   little bit of has come off, guess road salt is a nightmare for Japanese car. Mx5 here have a well known issue or rotting 
    • GTSBoy
      Alpha omega racing bracket

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Dissimilar metal corrosion. Aluminium is less noble than steel/iron, and will corrode preferentially when in contact with it and a conductive solution (ie, wet road salt). Tends to suggest that those brackets should be made in steel for a shitty climate like the UK.
×
×
  • Create New...