Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25 Neo Turbo Spec

MetalKingRB20

By MetalKingRB20,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

MetalKingRB20 Newbie

MetalKingRB20

Posted
Posted

I have bought an R32 GTS-T and i was told by the guy i bought it off that it had a RB25 neo turbo/ an op6 on it. i had it on the dyno today and bumped it from 8 psi to 13 psi and it went from 127Kw to 166Kw but i still dont know if the turbine wheel is ceramic or not. i need to know if i can keep running it at 13 psi or not does anyone know if they came out only with ceramic wheels or is there a steel turbined op6.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431289-rb25-neo-turbo-spec/
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

However, disregarding the aspect of luck involved in whether a ceramic turbo will die or not, running an R34 turbo on an RB20 at 13 psi is actually going to require less shaft speed than running an RB20 turbo at that boost, and also less than running it at 13 psi on an RB25. What this means is that you will be putting it under less stress and it will be safer than either of those cases.

I ran an RB20 turbo on my RB20 at 13+ psi for many years and it was still fine when I did my engine swap. The current Neo turbo appears to be quite happy at 12 psi, although I don't flog it hard and it hasn't been long and bad luck can happen at any time. Luck of the draw, your milage may vary, etc etc.

Havnig said the above, I hesitate to believe that you have an OP6 turbo (which can either be a VG30 or an R34, and they are slightly different) because at 13psi it should make a shit tonne more power than 166rwkW. I would have thought more like 180+.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • TurboTapin
      RB25DET Solid lifter conversion

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      I've unfortunately never been as they're on the complete other side of the continent and another country that isn't currently letting us in as easily as they use to. I even heard their stop signs over there actually say "Stop" instead of "Arret". If I decided to trek the 48h drive, I wouldn't know when or where to stop haha. Whenever I order parts from UP Garage, I order from Japan as it's cheaper. Same with GKTech... oddly enough, it's cheaper shipped from Australia then it is the US.  UP Garage Japan operates their US leg though, unlike Tomei. If Tomei JPN had the power to close down Tomei USA, I'm sure it would be done in a day. They're two completely separate entities. Tomei JPN messed up somewhere originally agreeing to its creation and got sacked big time. 
    • KKaplumbaa
      SR20 to cefiro

      By KKaplumbaa · Posted

      I asked someone about this and he told me about the Audi 1.8T engine. But I think it would be difficult to swap
    • MBS206
      The Cool Tools Thread

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I don't know that machine specifically, but I'd personally go for something with a little more kick than 130amp. Around up to 180 would be good. At the 6mm range, you're really pushing the machine hard and don't have a long period you can run for with out needing to give it a rest. Lots of MIG machines come with a regulator and hose. A lot will come with a starter roll of wire too, but it isn't too expensive to buy. I'd recommend NOT buying a massive roll too, as you don't want it sitting around FOREVER in the machine between uses and potentially going to shit. For thin sheet metal, get a roll of 0.6mm if you're doing over 3mm and above, switch over to 0.8mm wire. Even by 2mm you'd probably really want to switch. As for gas battle, it's all swap and go style now. You'll pay a bottle deposit, and then X amount to swap for a full one. I think it's like $200 or $300 for a D Size bottle upfront as "deposit", and like $110 to $150 per swap. My D size CO2/argon bottle lasts a fair bit of welding on the MIG. And I run an E size bottle on the TIG. For DIY MIG, stick with a D size bottle. If you really start to get into a LOT of welding and doing it really regularly, then upgrade. If you're like most DIY car guys, one D bottle will last you 2 or 3 years easily. I think I've been on my current bottle about 5 years. It is starting to get low, but I've been smashing it a lot more the last 6 months.
    • KKaplumbaa
      SR20 to cefiro

      By KKaplumbaa · Posted

      SR20s came with cars like the Bluebird and Primera, but the RB20 never came. The ones in Turkey were either brought in specially or from abroad. That's why RBs aren't as common as SRs. And if a part breaks or I need to replace it when doing maintenance, it's harder to find parts for RBs.
    • GTSBoy
      SR20 to cefiro

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I would suggest equally difficult to find, perhaps edging to the SR. Turkey has almost exclusively Euro market cars, some Korean, few Japanese other than pedestrian shite. I guess they're probably losing the fight against Chinese shit like we are now too. I would vote for a BMW V8, found in a 540i in a wrecking yard somewhere in Deutschland (or possibly Albania).
×
×
  • Create New...