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actually, just pop in a stock RB25DET.. by the time you end up dicking about with tunes & cams & injectors etc you would have been able to purchased & install a stock RB25DET which would make more power & torque than the RB20DET.

Best part, you already have a highflow, slap that on the RB25DET, get a nistune for that and crack about 230~250kW depending on your other mods

I've had a RB20DET, they're not that fun

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If you want all your horsepower at 2500RPM grab an LS1.

if you can actually drive just launch at 3000.

a tune will give you closer to stoich a/f mixtures and better response through more aggressive timing.

i'm 100% sure you can run more boost on the stock RB20, depending on your fuel supply that is.

come on man you have so many options for your car don't give up. An RB25det swap would be nice but it's a lot of work for 500ccs

Also nistune is great. You have an RB20 which means your ecu is 'nistuneable'. not the most complete ecu option but it's the best on a budget. Think Hondata for honda's

Edited by Blackkers

come on man you have so many options for your car don't give up. An RB25det swap would be nice but it's a lot of work for 500ccs

and VCT and higher compression :)

well there are a few small things you could do to improve the RB20DET

- grab an exhaust cam gear and dial in about -4 degrees or so (will provide a touch more beef down low)

- get a nistune or something programmable, clean up the A/F & dial in more timing down low

- run about 1 bar of boost

- shorten your fmic piping (where possible)

I had a RB20DET back in the days that cracked 183kWs at a dyno day, all it had was a S1 R33 RB25DET turbo, typical exhaust system, front mount, blah blah blah and a remap done by CEFF1E (I think he still floats about these forums) made full boost a little under 3800 rpm

and VCT and higher compression :)

I didn't realise the RB25det ran higher compression. What are the static comp figures for the RB20 vs RB25det?

also how much does VCT actually do performance wise? just curious as I upgraded to a nistune but my tuner made me use a Z32 ecu so I could easily keep vct

I didn't realise the RB25det ran higher compression. What are the static comp figures for the RB20 vs RB25det?

also how much does VCT actually do performance wise? just curious as I upgraded to a nistune but my tuner made me use a Z32 ecu so I could easily keep vct

Old pic from when I was tuning an RB25 R33 - black line is with fuel/timing dialled in with VCT off, red line is fuel/timing dialled in with VCT on:

overlayvct-novct-1.jpg

Looking at over 10% more power through the low/mid-rev range with VCT on

I didn't realise the RB25det ran higher compression. What are the static comp figures for the RB20 vs RB25det?

also how much does VCT actually do performance wise? just curious as I upgraded to a nistune but my tuner made me use a Z32 ecu so I could easily keep vct

I didn't realise the RB25det ran higher compression. What are the static comp figures for the RB20 vs RB25det?

also how much does VCT actually do performance

wise? just curious as I upgraded to a nistune but

my tuner made me use a Z32 ecu so I could

easily keep vct

8.5 : 1 v 9 :1

Another thread where someone asks for "responsive" turbo advice for their RB20 and ends up with an install RB25 :)

A high flow R33 turbo on an Rb20 often gives you the lag of a big aftermarket turbo but half the result. In part because it uses the std manifold, but mostly because the lil RB20 doesnt generate a lot of exhaust pulses from its lil 6 pot 2L cylinders.

I suggest you bin the turbo and look at a smaller frame turbo. Look at high flowing the std RB20 turbo and dont be shy to trade higher boost on a smaller turbo vs lower boost on a bigger turbo to make the same power. RB20s dont mind boost and inherent in their design is their ability to handle more boost and revs then any other RB engine....the trade off is they dont offer the torque of other RB engines.

I say stick with a 320hp sized tubo with basically std sized but steel turbine and a small effecient compressor, that is no bigger than 62mm, ideally more like 60mm and give it 18-19psi with a good tune, exhaust and bolt ons. You will bag a good punchy 210-230 odd rwkws

Dont mess with cams. I tried them at 270rwkws and was a poor result. Made 310 rwkws with similar response to what you currently have all on a std engine with E85...so cams wont hurt power or response at the power you are looking at with the turbos that will give you response.

At the end of the day no 2L 6 cylinder will give you the feeling of a torquey engine like a 4 cylinder, purely related to the characteristics of the engines. Doesnt mean they are slower, just deliver their power differently. My mates S14 always felt quicker than my R32 but when we lined them up it was all in the launch and at the track where we were rolling out of 3rd and 4th gear corners i generally pulled away. So the seat of the pants can be misleading. That was generally with him making a few more kws too.

Another thread where someone asks for "responsive" turbo advice for their RB20 and ends up with an install RB25 :)

Best solution really - especially when he wants full boost before 3000rpm! Not that he should NEED it. In reality I would have no issue thrashing around a small well matched turbo on a stock RB20 for lols. I reckon a 68HTA (or even a normal TD05-16G) would be great on one.

and inherent in their design is their ability to NEED more boost and revs then any other RB engine....

Fixed that for you :)

t the end of the day no 2L 6 cylinder will give you the feeling of a torquey engine like a 4 cylinder, purely related to the characteristics of the engines. Doesnt mean they are slower, just deliver their power differently. My mates S14 always felt quicker than my R32 but when we lined them up it was all in the launch and at the track where we were rolling out of 3rd and 4th gear corners i generally pulled away. So the seat of the pants can be misleading. That was generally with him making a few more kws too.

I put that down to driver ;)

I put that down to driver ;)

LOL, you are assuming he wasnt quicker in my car than me..which he was :( But then he got old and started a family and sold his S14...years later I may be a better driver than him :)

I had the 73HTA backed to back with my 20G and it woudl suggest the 68HTA would be a decent enough thing on the compressor side, but what hot side to run it with for a bolt on solution for an RB20 ???? I personally think one of the Garret GTX 2860Rs would be a go but its hard to come by a blown HKS 2530 so you can get the turbine housing to suit. Been casually looking for one for a mate for about 6 months but n9othing has come up at the right price.

had the 73HTA backed to back with my 20G and it woudl suggest the 68HTA would be a decent enough thing on the compressor side, but what hot side to run it with for a bolt on solution for an RB20 ???? I personally think one of the Garret GTX 2860Rs would be a go but its hard to come by a blown HKS 2530 so you can get the turbine housing to suit. Been casually looking for one for a mate for about 6 months but n9othing has come up at the right price.

Try and convince FP to sell you a DSM Green without housings for cheaper and get a Kando T3 internally gated TD05H turbine housing and a Kando 16/18G anti surge compressor housing - then get it milled to suit? Too hard? :D

GTX2860R, or even 63 would work very nicely as well - actually.

Thinking back - I am actually really impressed with how the run of the generic Kando TD05-16G turbo worked on an SR20 a mate has done... checked over dyno results on a NZ Silvia forum and it produced better spool than ANY turbo setup on any other Silvia on the forum, and went over 250rwkw without even trying (17psi, stock motor & cams, E85). Going by the initial results the TD05 would give 2/3rds of f-all away to a GTX2863R in any respect (16G6 = 42lb/min vs GTX2860R = 42lb/min vs GTX2863R = 44lb/min - all full boost between 3500rpm-4000rpm on an RB20 at a guess) for half the price, you'd just need to do a little bit more than basing it off an HKS hotside.

I had a TD05 for my RB20...gave it to a friend to run on his project SR. I think they woudl be a good thing with an 8cm housing on an RB20 but I had the 6 boost manifold and Trust 3 bolt housing for it....I got no idea how to get a TD05 based turbine to be internal gate to a T3 flange :(

Roy those HKS 0.64 T3 flanged turbine housings can be hard to find but std RB25 ones wouldn't be . They can be machined to fit Garrett BB cartridges with the turbine you want . Maybe kill two with one if you can find an affordable GTRS .

Always going to be a challenge with an RB20 and I'm not sure trying to force high cylinder pressures into them at sub 3K revs is the answer . The problem is small capacity cylinders ie 330 odd cc compared to a four cylinders ~ 500 cc , so the SRs pots are ~ 1.5 times the size of the RB20s .

The RB would no doubt rev better than the SR so power at revs is probably the way to go .

The other side of the equation is to make the Skyline as light as possible to improve the power to weight ratio . Every kilo equates to a tad more torque when you think about it so be ruthless and strip every avoidable bit of weight out .

A .

Disco, but yet to see any machine dNissan housings do the same job as the HKS based housings when the same wheels are used. Has been a while since I looked but good turbos often gave poor results due to lack of proper rear housing.

That Kando housing is poo based on the many results of those that tried to use them...plus a quick look at the wastegate gases path

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