Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can't see why not. Don't listen to people that say silly things like supporting mods etc. Just bolt it on and boost away into the sunset. ;) rb25s were made for turbos after all.

Edited by superben
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431409-gt35-on-rb25/#findComment-7005338
Share on other sites

After seeing the results of his VNT I think Hypergear would be a far better choice, I don't think any other manufacturer would spend so much time with an R33 on the dyno to develop turbo options for an Rb.

Edited by AngryRB
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431409-gt35-on-rb25/#findComment-7006137
Share on other sites

You can put any turbo on an rb25. Just depends on what you want to use the car for and how much power you want. Hypergear stuff isnt crap and props to them for making the choice easy for skyline owners when it comes to setups.

The reason why garrett and precision dont spend so much time developing a turbo for the 25 is most likely because they aren't aiming for skyline owners but moreso aiming for the entire performance/turbo world.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431409-gt35-on-rb25/#findComment-7006342
Share on other sites

Dont be confused a garrett gt3582r ("3540") is a good turbo but it will be on the laggy side of turbos for a rb25. You also cant just bolt one on and away you go. You'll need supporting mods like a " ecu, atleast 740cc injectors or bigger if going e85. 4" dump into a 3.5"

exhaust with a sutiable cat. Drop in cams and valve springs. Depending on fuel your planning to use will determine what fuel pump set up you need. Remember a (3540) is a 700hp turbo so unless used on a track on constant high revs it will feel laggy on the street. You'll need other things for a 3540 setup. Suspension, brakes, clutch etc. You would be bettet off spending the money on a HYPERGEAR hi-flow. Ss1pu would be good for a simple upgrade. Or his ss2 vnt if your prepared to upgrade other bits & pieces. Or a 3076 hta. Precision 5757/5858 billet cea wheel could be a goet as well.

Josh.

Edited by Joshbigt62r
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431409-gt35-on-rb25/#findComment-7006617
Share on other sites

I found this on the dynosheet section, It is a GT3582 in a .82 rear housing, This is a very good comparison to mine which has a more "Rb25det defined" 3582 equivalent turbocharger.

gallery_34685_3163_69889.jpg

Compare with boost plot:

boost.jpg

Which is identical to my controlled run (thick yellow), Thin yellow is the defined version.

Power wise it made 445rwkws @25psi @ 4500RPM. It is not that bad, still not a responsive turbo for a daily, which I'm working on.

Depending on how Cheap a GT3582 can be obtained, I can certainly modify it to the "defined" version at a fee. After the completion of research.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431409-gt35-on-rb25/#findComment-7006632
Share on other sites

Save your money up and buy a power fc if funds ade tight or what I recommend go straight to a adaptronic/Vi-Pec/ Link or Haltech direct plug in mate. Then you wonf need a afm. Jyst use thd map sensor and tons more features mate. Greddy blue is good for a paper weighf thats a8 it lol. And aem im not sure many people tune them here in Australia. Pick whatever ECU your tuner is most comfortable with I should have said.

Josh.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431409-gt35-on-rb25/#findComment-7006707
Share on other sites

I love this magical "RB25 specific" stuff. Turbo has NFI what engine it is attached to, sure - there are some combinations which will suit each other better or otherwise but for the most part that is bigger picture turbo/engine/part matching stuff (ie, tuning in the bigger picture). Comparing two large turbos on an engine not good at spooling turbos and allowing one to start at 1500rpm and giving that turbo 4.6 seconds to reach 4500rpm (Hypergear - assuming the 9 second run Chequered uses still applies) versus one which starts at 2500rpm and allows it 3.1 seconds to get to 4500rpm (GT35R) proves that the Hypergear turbo can build more boost by 4500rpm if it's given 50% more time to do so. Out of interest, the GT35R is actually hitting full boost 3.7s into it's dyno run after starting 1000rpm later, versus 4.6 for the Hypergear. How they'd both compare on the same start rpm and ramp rate, who knows.

A question which hasn't been asked so far - is that an actual Garrett GT3582R, or an ebay-type "GT35"? I'm starting to wonder.... and if that's the case, save your money and keep the stock turbo.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431409-gt35-on-rb25/#findComment-7006718
Share on other sites

I love this magical "RB25 specific" stuff. Turbo has NFI what engine it is attached to, sure - there are some combinations which will suit each other better or otherwise but for the most part that is bigger picture turbo/engine/part matching stuff (ie, tuning in the bigger picture). Comparing two large turbos on an engine not good at spooling turbos and allowing one to start at 1500rpm and giving that turbo 4.6 seconds to reach 4500rpm (Hypergear - assuming the 9 second run Chequered uses still applies) versus one which starts at 2500rpm and allows it 3.1 seconds to get to 4500rpm (GT35R) proves that the Hypergear turbo can build more boost by 4500rpm if it's given 50% more time to do so. Out of interest, the GT35R is actually hitting full boost 3.7s into it's dyno run after starting 1000rpm later, versus 4.6 for the Hypergear. How they'd both compare on the same start rpm and ramp rate, who knows.

Its not "magic", it is ingenuity, more because enough work and researches has been put into this item, specifically for a Rb25det. Results came from the dynosheet section that has same setup as mine

The dyno automatically pickup data in set roller rate and completes in a given time. So at the point of where data began to plotted car is already on fully throttle, in which makes no difference to boost generating behavior. You can start plotting from 500RPMs and it will still match identical RPM/Boost plots.

Plus turbocharger in this size is not sensitive to ramp change, lets give / take 1.3 sec makes 0 differences.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431409-gt35-on-rb25/#findComment-7006796
Share on other sites

GT35 - 400rwkw turbo.

You're going to need more than 550cc injectors unless you plan to run a pretty high base pressure to start off with which would then lead to ensuring you have a very good fuel pump to supply the fuel @ that rate/pressure.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431409-gt35-on-rb25/#findComment-7007651
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • IMG_8641.mov     She doesn’t sound the best but starts with out using any gas now. I just ran some injector cleaner through her. started roughly the first time after adding it but gave it the beans slowly upto 4k, Must have cleaned a few cobwebs out. another step in the right direction for the sub
    • Sadly I can confirm if you are actually seeking to drift, you will quite easily spin up one wheel. Even if you're going in a straight line. I am not entirely sure of the metrics/terminology here but there's only a certain amount that the helical will actually spin both wheels. I've seen it on video with my own car where two lines of smoke switch over to just one after you really get in to it. Unlike with a clutch diff where you can keep your foot planted until the car regains grip, in my experience with the helical you want to be utilizing traction control allowing LIMITED slip or lifting (partially) when you start to spin up both tyres with a Nissan helical. Which makes them pretty sub optimal for drifting duty. That said... this is probably a helical on numbers alone. Just put the Kazz in
    • Let's just fix the problem by f**king the rest of the gearbox.
    • Unlikely, as per Greg's post. This is not helical diff behaviour unless one wheel is up off the ground. Shimming what? You don't "shim" a mechanical LSD. Probably not in the sense that you have heard of people "shimming" a diff. And the process that Nissan f**kwits call "shimming" a diff involves super-preloading a VLSD cartridge against the side of the diff to create a friction/wear point (in a place that it wasn't supposed to have one) to make the sloppy, useless, viscous diff into a hybrid viscous/mech abortion. In case it isn't clear, I consider the process to be stupid. Nike.
    • How much does the shifter move when the car is in gear with the engine off? If it is more than about 1cm you need to replace your shifter bush. Your shifts will just get crunchier, not faster, with a short shifter unless you also rebuild the whole box
×
×
  • Create New...