Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm pretty sure everyone thrashes their skyline once in a while and so I wanted to ask what are some basic mods that will ensure, while I'm gunning it, I don't blow a gasket or something .

I'm replacing the gasket in a few days as one measure, but are there any other recommendations?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431446-thrashed-r33-s2/
Share on other sites

Also I would say knowing what pinging is and what it sounds like is beneficial.

I might look stupid for saying this, but I 100% agree. I haver never been in a car that has pinged and I would love to know what it actually sounds like. I understand how detrimental it can be to an engine and being able to hear it and know what that means is a very good preventative measure and could save you an engine rebuild.

I just assume that it would be a fairly audible noise and would present itself as a decent loss in power/acceleration.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431446-thrashed-r33-s2/#findComment-7007305
Share on other sites

It sounds like a few angry little men beating away on the inside of the engine with tiny hammers. Like a rattle of stones being dropped on a tin roof. Really rapid rattle.

No noticeable loss of power or acceleration need be apparent. Engines actually make the most power when right on the verge of detonation. So the car will usually be going really well right up until the instant it happens, especially if the knock is caused by something like a failing fuel pump that is gradually losing the fight to keep the fuel flow up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431446-thrashed-r33-s2/#findComment-7007311
Share on other sites

Haha fair enough. I'm sure when I hear it I will just be like, yep, that's pinging alright.

Also make sure you have a good quality radiator and a a decent water/coolant mix with good quality coolant and preferably demineralised water (better but not a necessity). I think you will be surprised how well a stockish car that uses good quality oil and coolant, and has a good oil and water cooling setup will last even when thrashing it at track/drift days. Use a little common sense and keep it off the limiter, and I can almost guarantee that you will get a few years of hard driving from it before something major happens

Edited by iruvyouskyrine
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431446-thrashed-r33-s2/#findComment-7007419
Share on other sites

As others said, keep fresh oil quality oil in there, make sure your coolant is nice and green. Do your maintenance work and she'll be good.

If you've got a big exhaust you might find it hard to hear the det. Maybe worth while investing in knock sensors with visual feedback. Maybe there is a way to intercept the standard knock sensor loom and build and wire it up to a gauge modified for knock. Don't hold me to this as I am not sure if the unit transmit a signal of resistance(more resistance more knock or the other way around) or if it sends a direct sound signal and the ECU interprets the noise.

Ive also read knocking could sound like chains being dragged underneath the car. I have never heard knock from my car but Ive seen it bounce around on my power fc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431446-thrashed-r33-s2/#findComment-7007486
Share on other sites

And don't hang it up on the rev limiter. If you clip it every now and then, no problem. If you run up against it regularly and for extended times, expect it all to go pop.

An oil cooler is a worthwhile mod :)

These two and a oil temp gauge, stop thrashing before 120c

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431446-thrashed-r33-s2/#findComment-7007557
Share on other sites

These two and a oil temp gauge, stop thrashing before 120c

I don't limited bash, but sometimes I push it to 5K in 1st and I'm scared clutch is going to go if I keep on driving like that. I will be installing my temp gauge soon.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431446-thrashed-r33-s2/#findComment-7007580
Share on other sites

Good tune, good fuel and decent oil.

Now when ypu say oil what kind of oil is 'good' in your opinion? Might need to top off soon and top off on my coolant.

What gasket are you replacing? There are quite a few.

Rocket cover gaskets. Are they the same as head gaskets?

An oil cooler is a worthwhile mod :)

Hmmm....never heard of oil coolers. Had a google and I'm a bit confused. Isn't oil supposed to remain hot to be efficient in terms of flowing through the engine? Also where do you mount them because some of them look like mini intercoolers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431446-thrashed-r33-s2/#findComment-7007587
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...