Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just a quick question

does Mobil Synergy 8000 contain ethanol? or BP Ultimate for that matter?

I asked my mate the other day what fuel he uses and he says Optimax is the best. When I said Mobil Synergy 8000 and BP Ultimate are better he clicked it at me and said that they contain ethanol. He is the type of guy who hates being wrong and will go to the other side of the world just to prove you wrong.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43149-ethanol-in-fuel/
Share on other sites

i think it comes down to opinion, i haven't done any tests, but from what i've read/heard optimax is 95ron engineered up to 98ron, and only has a lifespan at 98ron for 2 weeks

where as synergy and ultimate are manufactured as 98ron, and last longer than 2weeks..

but as long as your car doesn't ping, shouldn't make a differnece

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43149-ethanol-in-fuel/#findComment-880969
Share on other sites

they arent supposed to contain ethanol. There were some cases a while back where ethanol was found in some fuels, but its illegal or something coz it can cause damage? so id say none of it has ethanol at present.

the 8000 and ultimate 98 are both quality fuels, your pretty safe using them. Better than using optimax in my opinion. I tried it for the first time when i took my car to NSW and the car just didnt want to rev out. I put it down to a bad batch of optimax, as i had to use some a while ago and it was fine. but that said, i have optimax in there now, been sitting there about a week and a half, and now i have the same problem, it pops and wont rev out, so i wont be using it again unless i have to.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43149-ethanol-in-fuel/#findComment-881081
Share on other sites

OK just did a bit more research.

(The things you can learn after midnight!)

BP did do a short trial with ethanol in QLD in 2002.

This little snippet has all the answers:

As no BP fuel contains ethanol they do not need to state anything on the pump. Mobil and shell are the same. Shell has by choice decided to label their pumps anyway regardless of the fact their fuel contains no ethanol and they do not legally have to do it.

[EDIT]

All that aside, I wouldn't even think of touching OPTIMAX, my car is NA, and if i use optimax it pings... i cant imagine the sort of damage it could cause to a turbo car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43149-ethanol-in-fuel/#findComment-881107
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As you're looking at using a Link ECU, then large injectors are not a problem. But there's not really any need to go 1000s on an RB20 unless you're planning >>600HP on E85, which would seem unlikely. There are other options for injectors. The Xspurt ones are available from a number of places and you can get them in the mid 600s and 725cc, which is probably a sensible place to be. These are all EV14 based. If you are not using the stock AFM (at all, which would be the case with a Link) then a large turbo intake pipe to suit the ATR turbos is not an obstacle, so you should use one instead of a highflow. Results will be better.
    • Hey guys,  I'm after some advice and this here is the best place to get it imo. I was a member a looong time ago under another account, with a lost email address. Its nice to jump back on and see some of the same names still giving good advice.  I mothballed my car when i moved to perth in 2013, and after getting towed across the nullabor a few times it has officially done more km's on a trailer than under its own power. Now that i have started the process of tidying up and modifying it, i see the fruit available (and the fruiterers selling the produce) is different than back in the day. hence my questions, as i used to 'know' what to get and now, i'm not so sure. Engine wise the car (92 gtst) has a walbro 255, k+n, fmic, cam gears and and turbo back 3"exhaust. Wish list is a Hypergear high flow or ATR43G1, Link G4x and some newer injectors before a tune up. My goals are modest, only low 200's power wise. i know i could achieve this with less, but i've been swapping out old for new where i can. Every cooling hose has been replaced, along with mani gaskets, WP, thermostat and radiator, fuel pump and timing belt, tensioner and idler, and i rebuilt the steering rack. Regarding the injectors, the fruiterers all seem to sell what used to be considered quite large injectors. There are a lot of options for bosch 1000cc EV14's, and i would like to know if that is a suitable choice for my build. Is modern injector design good enough to run these at the low duty cycles that i likely would be? is there a downside to running a too large injector these days? or, would there be an upside to running a smaller injector at higher duty cycle? I can see that there are smaller injectors still available, but the ones i have seen specifically marketed for RB's are pretty large (see: https://golebysparts.au/collections/fuel-rail-injector-kits/products/nissan-rb20-fuel-rail-bosch-980cc-1150cc-injectors-turbosmart-fpr800-regulator-kit), and i dont know enough about them to say one not marketed for RB's would fit or not. I have searched the forums, and amongst all the posts on older tech, I did see gtsboy recommend EV14's, but no size was mentioned... again, i'm not clear on if the smaller size bosch injectors are also EV14's as they do look similar.  also, if someone can recommend a tuner familiar with RB's in the Geelong or West Melbourne area i'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance guys. Cheers, Rowdy  
    • FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
×
×
  • Create New...