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Safety......

While I was very happy with my AGI cage, I was a little worried about how it was bolted to the floor pan in the front foot well. So after a bit of head sratching and a phone a friend, it was thought, the best option was to weld a 3mm plate to the vertical section and then on to the floor. What this does, in a roll over the cage should use the vertical section for load not the thin 1mm floor section...... I'm bloody hoping I don't find this out in the real world..... But at least I've given myself a fighting chance, in a roll over. Also fu#k build roll cages for a living, Trying to weld up side down and in a footwell when your 6'2 100kg is not fun!

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  • Like 1

^^^^^

Thx,

There was talk last weekend over a couple of beers last weekend, about running the car in next years QR300.

Biggest problem is going to be fuel, 90 laps. The boat uses, about 2 ltrs per lap as 9 psi of boost. We are looking at fitting a second, 40 ltr tank, then using a transfer pump to re fill the main OEM tank.

Going to be running next Friday at QR in pratice. Hopeful of not blowing, breaking, melting any thing. See how we go, I've not been in the car for over 6 months.

Well..... She's fixed!!!

I forgot to turn the go bro on, so no vids.....but, no more engine miss and fuel is not been burnt any where near the rate. Plus I've now got VVT.

The ducting worked really well, temps well down. The new winmax pads W7 are very bitty. I'm sure once the rotors have settled down she will be apples. Counldn't trail brake without up setting the car.

New front springs have really helped, car is much more balanced. Took 2 seconds off my PB with old 225 nt-01s. With out pushing it.

Nice, not to melt, smash anything. So all good. I can now go back fingers crossed and start doing some track days again.

Good to know it seems to be handling better. Heavier front springs?

High temps are like a monkey on your back, decent ducting makes a world of difference.

Running W7/W3 combination front/rear, I found things only settled down with a lot of effort to getting heat into the brakes on warm up lap. Otherwise it seemed to have rear-bias and tendency to lock the rears. Once things were nice and warm, trail braking was no problem and very effective.

Good to hear nigel. If you can take a few more pictures of the rad ducting that would be great. I'm thinking of doing something similar. What thickness alloy did you use?

Amir

Edited by Abdul11

Good to know it seems to be handling better. Heavier front springs?

High temps are like a monkey on your back, decent ducting makes a world of difference.

Running W7/W3 combination front/rear, I found things only settled down with a lot of effort to getting heat into the brakes on warm up lap. Otherwise it seemed to have rear-bias and tendency to lock the rears. Once things were nice and warm, trail braking was no problem and very effective.

Much better handing, wasn't really pushing turn one or two, but the drive out of turn 3 and 6 was much better.

Brakes, Seemed pretty good, think I only really bedded them in. I was locking the front left a little.

I wouldn't call it ducting more of a air guild, dropped the water temps a fair bit around 90 degs, oil about 105 degs. QR national is hard on brakes and engine with all the WOT.

Couldn't trail brake at all, seemed very grabby...

Maybe I've spent to long on I racing, just about s#it myself going in to turn one, when the car lent in.

I'm just happy it's running and didn't bust any thing. Going to leave it stock for a while.

Good to hear nigel. If you can take a few more pictures of the rad ducting that would be great. I'm thinking of doing something similar. What thickness alloy did you use?

Amir

I think it was 3 mm plate, I found it in my shed. I have know idea where I got it from..... A lot of my mates and I share tools and work shop space. I've got a AC tig welder.... Plus home brew So there is always 1/2 finshed alloy projects lying around. :-)

I'm going to have a look at the front end of my car next weekend and do some work. There still seems to be a lot of crap in the coolent system, going to need to clean it out. So I'll take pics then.

Cheers Nigel

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hi All,

The good the bad and the O s#it not again...

Saturday I took the boat for a run at QR for there street sprint day....

42 degs C air temp and 70 degs C + track temp.... So bloody hot, oil and air temps all good...

the good, the car is much better after the stiffer front springs and wants to turn left and right without wanting to spit me off the track...

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/cKUuon6zlA8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

The bad after my last run. I thought doing a burn out in to pit lane was a good idea.... Job done, but the car died, no power, reset the power tried again... no fuel pump sound... So I took a guess the new nismo fuel pump had died. Checked the fuse all good. So no problem winch the car on to the trailer and off home, pretty norm for my car...

Next morning bridged out the fuel pump relay started up the pump car fired up. Still had me scatching my head found the feed for the fuel pump relay had not come on. Checked the engine control fuse, winner winner chicken dinner, blown 10 amp (Now I'm a sparky with 20 years exp) I thought bugger it, I've got a 15 amp fuse next to me..... plug her in car started all good in the hood. Tell the smoke ecapped out of the ecu. Full fail..... What a tool...

Still second hand r33 ecu is only $100... But still.

So I started to check the wiring, which I should have done first....

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Here we go again...

Found the fault... Bloody O2 sensor had shorted, which feeds off pin 45 in the ecu to control 12 volts...

O2sensor_zpsf42705e9.jpg

Still $100 second hand ecu and a couple of meters of elect tape and she all good in the hood again.

Also

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Mate of mine got me a set of these to test out Nankang semis.... Must say I was really happy, seem about the same as my nitto nt-01s but about $400 cheaper a set... Have to wait and see how they heat cycle... But I was really happy!

Cheers Nigel

Keen to hear your thoughts on those tyres after a few runs mate :)

At the moment, it's two thumbs up.... 255 35 r17s 120 tread wear... Think they will rrp at around $175 ish - $200. They make noise before they let go, which I find a big plus.

Handling doesn't look too wayward, perhaps a little bit of oversteer on exit. Is that likely body roll with camber change on the track transitions?

Even that clubman track permits quite a long time at 100% throttle.

Handling doesn't look too wayward, perhaps a little bit of oversteer on exit. Is that likely body roll with camber change on the track transitions?

Even that clubman track permits quite a long time at 100% throttle.

More me heavy on the loud peddel, Car is tens times better.... It's much more easy to handle now., moves around but more balanced.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi All,

Had a pretty good weekend at Mt Cotton, car went pretty with one off in to the nuts.. Well more of a little kiss on the nuts..

I forgot how hard hill climbing is... No warm up.. no test lap.. Just get in and drive like you stole it!

Got into the 51s which was not to bad, but I use to do 49s in my mx5... The R33 is a big car to get round that tight track, hard compound semis and race pads raise the pulse a couple of times. Got pretty side ways and hard to pull up. Around good fun weekend. Nice bunch of people.

If you feel like having a run at Mt Cotton the MGCC QLD run the event.

Other bonus the car made it on to the trailer under it's own power!!!

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