Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is there any specific way of cleaning and detailing an engine/ engine bay? Or is a few cans of HD degreaser and anf well used Gernie and a little towel action the only way to go? This is the reason I ask.

post-100977-13786196565374_thumb.jpg

As you can see she's got quite a dirty heart in her.

Any hints and tips reslly appreciated, many thanks in advance.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431532-engine-bay-cleaning/
Share on other sites

I watched this the other day, I know a skyline is better then what he's working on but it still helps

 

 

 

 

Thank you that was exactly the information I was looking for.

(This post can be locked now mods.)

I picked up a free sample bottle of Simple Green from Bursons a couple of weeks ago.

I'dd tried a ton of different solutions and nothing has worked as well as this so far. Mind you i was using it as a 100% concentrate! :woot:

A good tip is to buy a ton of small tooth brushes and melt the handles into suitable angles to get to the harder spots :)

IMAG0021.jpg

  • Like 1

A good tip is to buy a ton of small tooth brushes and melt the handles into suitable angles to get to the harder spots :)

i have been detailing my car every 3 weeks for 4 years and you just blew my mind. thank you sir!

I find Prepsol for painted surfaces in the engine bay works really well to remove oily, fuel, greasy stains. Just give it a good rub while it's wet.

(Especially good for the fume stains on the underside of the bonnet)

Tin foil (out of the pantry) is flexible to work over/around electrical connections (real easy).

Plastic shopping bag over the airfilter/s.

Degreaser for the engine as per the vid.

Rinse down/dry off.

Depending if your picky you can then use a mild cutting/polish compound on the engine bay painted surfaces like struts etc. Micro fibre off and then wax. Easier to clean next time.

Stiff paintbrush is a good tip from the vid as with old tooth brushes mentioned above^^.

Giving the hoses a quick wipe over with an interior cleaner brings them up shiney.

And of course if you have shiney metal :( then a metal all purpose cleaner after a metal polish makes it look tits :D

Using one of those power cones for polishing makes it a lot easier :)

Edited by Anonymouse
  • 2 weeks later...

i have been detailing my car every 3 weeks for 4 years and you just blew my mind. thank you sir!

Ha glad i could help.

I'm by nature a tight arse so anything to save $$. Besides owning a gtr isnt cheap.. gotta cut some corners somewhere :)

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

diluted ct18 does wonders with a little elbow grease.

yep or dishwashing liquid...Prepsol as mentioned ,is great for cleaning those smokey stains of your paint and get heaps of those 5 for 10$ degreaser cans from supercheap...they blow grime off in places you cant reach...or if you have a air compressor buy a degreaser gun...

I always end up with water in down with my coils always have to take the cover off and blow it all out with an air gun, I also blow off excess water on any terminals afterwards as well

I always end up with water in down with my coils always have to take the cover off and blow it all out with an air gun, I also blow off excess water on any terminals afterwards as well

yeah,, what I did was take the cover off and get some off that foam sticky tape...put a piece down either side of the cover and replace...works well...

alternatively, remove cover and put a towel over your coilpacks...

but really you shouldnt need to spray the top of the engine that much as most of the grim is down the sides where oils leak...just spray around it mostly

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • People think it's a waste of space, ugly, etc, generally associate "emissions control equipment" with "bad". These OBD1 vacuum-only systems I'm not a huge fan because I think they don't go far enough. They're wasting some of the fuel captured because they start purging as soon as the engine pulls vacuum. Later OBD1/OBD2 they put an electric purge valve on them to vent only when closed loop is active so the ECU will trim some fuel out. Even later OBD2 with zero evaporative loss the tank is 100% sealed from atmosphere until you run the engine or press the refuel door release. The tank has to take much higher vacuum/pressure spec but you never deal with saturating the charcoal canister and losing some fuel that way. The fuel also lasts as long as it would in a 100% airtight container which is nice when you're dealing with modern E10 pump gas.
    • If your luck is anything like mine, what happens is in the process of pulling hoses to get access to the one leak you create many more leaks because every o-ring was on the verge of failing and the strain of pulling it apart caused it to fail. Sometimes life is simple, sometimes you pay twice trying to save once. For the R33 you can still get most AC components from Nissan, I use nissan epc data or amayama to look up the part numbers and then search for the cheapest/most practical way of sourcing from there.
    • The dirty secret is there is nothing recyclable about the plastic bag or old plastic bottles either. Our local trash collection explicitly calls it out as hazmat in both cases. Oil-soaked rags + paper towels too. Oil-soaked cardboard is also not recyclable. The most common case of oil-soaked paper like that is pizza boxes, which are explicitly compost-only from the oil. To my knowledge hazmat oil contaminated plastic the only solution is either landfill or "thermal recycling". Most plastics in my experience there is slow permeation of the oil it's holding into the container so it's very challenging to get it 100% clean.
    • Yes, and since RAA insurance essentially being swallowed up by the same monster that is NRMA insurance and all those other clowns, they are no bloody good now either. We dropped RAA insurance for the house a little while back because they lost the plot.
    • I can tell you now, good luck if you're with NRMA (NSW equiv of vis RACV and QLD RACQ). Because NRMA are freaking horrendous to deal with for claims, even with a normal road car. Not to mention even more BS when they're in the wrong and didn't cancel a policy etc when they were meant to and make you jump through hoops for things.
×
×
  • Create New...