Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey fellas just looking for some advice towards the build of my R32 GTR.

So a little bit about the build first.

*Extensive head work ( ported, +1mm valves, Tomei type 'C' springs and retainers, Tomei 280 x 11.50 cams)

*Nitto rods

*Standard block 86.5mm bore, grout filled to bottom of welch plugs

*Standard inlet manifold modified with single throttle body

*Precision 6766 split pulse T4 1.00 AR

*Split pulse manifold with twin Precision wastegates

And all other supporting mods ( nitto oil pump, ARP retainers etc.)

My question is what compression pistons are people using and what is available? I was originally putting a set of arias in that I had ( 8.2/1 I think) But since the local United is now selling E85 I'm more inclined to use higher compression pistons. I know that CP do 9.0/1 and SPS can make anything to order. I was thinking something around the 9.5 to 10 area. Does any company produce these as a shelf item? And also my current fuel system is the stock GTR pump as the lift pump then twin 044s from the surge tank. Obviously going to E85 I'm thinking a lift pump upgrade is in order. What size pump would be suitable for this kind of setup? Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers Simon

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431646-rb26-raised-compression/
Share on other sites

i know this isnt what ur asking but first thing I would do is not use a jap valve spring,

from my experience and what ive seen they are too soft, for high lift cams... they might be ok on tomei cams with a low ramp rate on the lobe but personally Id be getting something different

in regards to your fuelling question.. im using an intank nismo that feeds twin walbro 400's... but im only making 420rwkw... that 6766 will make more power then my set up

I think anywhere from 9-9.5:1 is a nice number

Waits for PIGGAZ's wisdom haha

Actually the problem isn't the valve spring usually, it's the way the machine shop cuts the valve seats and sets the clearances

but by saying that maybe true, why does it seem to affect jap brand springs "usually" more often than the other big brands available??? Can you please explain mate? A few mates of mine have come across valve float with tomei type c's, apexi spl v-max's and also atomei type b's from memory. Of the 4 gtr's 1 went to ferrea and other 3 went to some brand I cant think of off the top of my head but I know that JHH RACING use and recommended my mates the brand I cant think of and problem was solved. I should add high revving rb26 strokers of all sorts. Keeping revs sensible and I guess you probably wouldn't have a problem?

Josh

The jap springs are designed for a head with factory height valve seats, once you cut the seats it's moves them up in the head, which moves the valve up and the retainer with it and that lowers the spring tension at rest which is what causes float.

Also put some boost over the top of the valve and the problem becomes even worse

The jap springs are designed for a head with factory height valve seats, once you cut the seats it's moves them up in the head, which moves the valve up and the retainer with it and that lowers the spring tension at rest which is what causes float.

Also put some boost over the top of the valve and the problem becomes even worse

Just like you have said it comes down to if the seat pressures have been checked and are within specs which any decent head machinist would do. Not just slap it together and hope for the best. Do you know of any brands that do shelf items higher than the CP 9.0:1. I cant find anything.

Just like you have said it comes down to if the seat pressures have been checked and are within specs which any decent head machinist would do. Not just slap it together and hope for the best.

then a new problem arises! That is when you get the seat pressure right the spring binds at lift

Both me and Paul (piggaz) have already been thru this very recently

Sh&ts just never ending!! lol. Well they are in there now so I will give them a go. If I have to change them so be it and if not BONUS!! Cant believe I havent heard of this before now. I know of 3 cars running tomei top ends with no dramas whatsoever which is why I went that way. What is not going to give me headaches? lol

Performance = head aches and lot of $$$

Well the heads not currently bolted to anything yet is it? Be easier to get it sorted now. Pull em out and sell them and chuck the same springs as what "Piggaz & r32-25t" are running in. :)

The chances are you'll see the exact same problems as so many people that have walked this path before you have. You may get lucky and not but while its a common issue I reckon you'd be mad not to address the problem now and stay that one step ahead. :)

Its your choice atcthe end of the day though mate.

Josh

I'm curious to know what the car will be used for though it sounds like a top endy drag app .

Always with long period cams the dynamic CR drops because the trapping efficiency is poor at low engine speeds , valves open too early and close too late to get much effective compression happening .

Raising the static CR means what air the valves seal in is compressed more so you get higher compression pressure .

Also your call but big cams make for lots of reversion (inlet air going in and partially back out of the inlet valves at lower engine speeds) and having a throttle plate per inlet port helps here .

If I was contemplating a high horsepower RB26 and not using twin turbos or ITBs it may have been worthwhile researching turbo Neo heads with the RB26s valve train . Reasons being you get smaller chambers for less heat absorption area and you can have higher compression ratios without raised piston crowns which screw up breathing to a degree . Also the basic but useful variable inlet cam ability is not a bad thing either . IMO the value in a GTR head is it's valve train and manifolds , beyond that its just another RB TC head that started out in 1989 .

From memory GMS had the CR around 9.6 but that changed when CAMS tried to rein in the GTRs power wise , I think they had less boost with a higher CR to minimise the power loss .

Edited by discopotato03

I'm curious to know what the car will be used for though it sounds like a top endy drag app .

Always with long period cams the dynamic CR drops because the trapping efficiency is poor at low engine speeds , valves open too early and close too late to get much effective compression happening .

Raising the static CR means what air the valves seal in is compressed more so you get higher compression pressure .

Also your call but big cams make for lots of reversion (inlet air going in and partially back out of the inlet valves at lower engine speeds) and having a throttle plate per inlet port helps here .

If I was contemplating a high horsepower RB26 and not using twin turbos or ITBs it may have been worthwhile researching turbo Neo heads with the RB26s valve train . Reasons being you get smaller chambers for less heat absorption area and you can have higher compression ratios without raised piston crowns which screw up breathing to a degree . Also the basic but useful variable inlet cam ability is not a bad thing either . IMO the value in a GTR head is it's valve train and manifolds , beyond that its just another RB TC head that started out in 1989 .

From memory GMS had the CR around 9.6 but that changed when CAMS tried to rein in the GTRs power wise , I think they had less boost with a higher CR to minimise the power loss .

The previous build was 2860-5s and poncams and was hella fun on the street but going for a mainly drag setup this time round with the odd street cruise. Like I said earlier I'm not too keen on wasting the thousands already spent on the current setup. Thanks for the tip though! Maybe do this when I eventually convert my RB30et powered VL to twin cam.

Cheers Simon.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Grind them off, drill them out. Repair any rust on the other side. Start again from scratch.
    • Big R34 GTR parts cleanout. I have a lot of stuff collected over the last 14 years and my missus is giving me hard time. Make my life easy.   Nismo GT carbon fibre diffuser fins (discontinued)  NEW  $2900 Garage Defend Stingray canards carbon fibre  NEW  $1300  Top Secret G Force carbon fibre front diffuser  NEW  $2000  Haltech Elite 2500  NEW  $2500  Haltech Platinum Pro R34 GTR   USED  $1400  Apex’I power FC D'jetro + hand controller R34 GTR   USED  $1400  Nissan OEM BNR34 ECU  USED   $1000  HKS EVC 6  USED  $600  Blitz dual SBC ID boost controller.  USED  $350  TRE 255 LPH Fuel pump  NEW  $100  Fujitsubo  Super Ti exhaust  USED  $2700  Tomei Expreme Ti exhaust  USED  $2000  Trust stainless steel front pipe  USED  $1000  Apex’I super suction kit  USED $400  BC BR coilovers  USED  $600  Hardrace front upper camber kit. USED  $300  Garret 2860-5 turbos –  one good, one needs reco USED  $1000  Nissan OEM Toshiba MFD Screen replacement  NEW  $450  Nissan OEM BNR34 Series II front passenger seat  USED (mint) $5000   Nissan OEM BNR34 front bar in TV2  USED  $1000  Nissan OEM BNR34 front lower air spoiler  USED  $900  Nissan OEM BNR34 front lower air spoiler (painted)  USED  $900  Nismo front indicator (clear) USED  $80 Nissan OEM BNR34 radiator  USED $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 turbos  USED  $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 intercooler USED  $800  Nissan OEM BNR34 front swaybar   USED  $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 intake pipes   USED  $400    Also have a square set of uber rare Volk CE28n in 19*10 +22. Not really keen to sell these but make a high enough offer and maybe I will. If you don't know how much these usually sell for don't bother.   PM for pics.  Pickup Chadstone VIC or postage at buyer's expense.
    • Thanks Mate, I did know you could do that but i know there is a pump out there that you can bolt on and it all lines up. I was told about it and then forgot the model, I figure if i am pulling it apart i will just put a new one on 
    • You can also remove the veins from the HICAS portion of your existing pump. 
    • Trying to swap the rear subframe on my R34 and can't remove the L-shaped stay brackets between the front subframe mounts and the sill/chassis. I'm in the UK so rust is a problem. I've used loads of WD40 and then Tunap 103 for days beforehand. I backed off the bolts forward a bit, backward a bit repeatedly for ages to try and avoid snapping. They have all moved a few full turns. The one I've spent most time on has come loose and I can turn with fingers, and it will pull down and push up 2-3mm. But it won't come out. I can tighten it back up and loosen it off again repeatedly but it still won't come out. I assumed there's a captive nut inside but if that's broken loose then I can't understand why I can always tighten the bolt back up - I'd expect it to just spin both ways. Any ideas what's happening here? I can't visualise what's inside there to cause this.
×
×
  • Create New...