Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here's mine

IMGP0426_zps5a20e062.jpg

nice r33 - same colour as mine :D

just wondering - underneath the car, those bars - i used to have them and had alot of work done at mechanics and now i dont seem to have the bars - dont think i got them back either...

what exactly are they?

seems every r33 gtr i see has them but mine seem to be gone now..

P0h1QvP.jpg

kFo87Fx.jpg

BpPXEnt.jpg

haven't taken many pics for a while..

last one was from stuffing around with settings on iphone app..

almost tempted to take the TE37SL's off and go back to the Panasports when i get a buckle taken out of them.

  • Like 3

yeah the panasports are awesome but they are no where near as strong as the TE37SL's

running BC ER's and the shit roads im guessing buckled them =/

as soon as they are fixed ill probably throw them back on for a while, was tempted to sell for right price though

Your panasports are way hotter!

Those bars you talking about seem to be something to do with the rigidity of the rear end. Kinda like a underbody brace

i put cusco drag rods in so maybe thats why I dont have that bar.. not sure >,<

Another MP R33 GTR :) I love this thread :wub:
Had the Nismo (genuine) 400r bar fitted a couple weeks ago. It's scary low by Nismo's standards :S

Good practice (going across gutters) Owen for when you get a MP R34 GT-R :P

That's a great & aggressive looking front!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • At SMSP, I mainly see Hondas, M cars, A90 Supras and of course, plenty of Evos. Have not seen a single R32 ro R34 Skyline on the night sessions that I've been to. That's really saying something.
    • I like mine. Much better than stock. Like i said before the reverse/parking cameras look even worse than normal, still useable. When you buy one make sure it's the latest version. Heaps of cheap ones that run the old hardware and software. Got mine from AliExpress. Mine is quick no lag, boots up 1-2 sec. Menu is fast. Netflix is fine and so is YouTube. Android Auto is random taking 3sec to 15sec. Most of the time it's quick. Very rare it doesn't connect. But that could be a phone thing.   Now I think they use a Pixel 3XL to run this whole thing which i guess is fine, but the problem is that some apps will not work on old hardware like Disney Plus  Maybe Prime Video too 🤔. they will not update. Iv'e tried getting the APK Disney + but i still couldn't get it working. I have a Data sim installed so i have internet all the time. You can't Hotspot off your phone and connect Android Auto at the same time. Not that you need too, if you want you can hotspot off your phone and run any internet map app (google maps) and you can run the Spotify app on it's own (the app runs better than android auto) You can still access the INFINITI intouch system for all the o.g stuff    P.S i got new non Polarization Sunglasses too 😎 
    • I also don't mean to rain on your parade. But with a 5-10k budget for road only? I'd want to check confirmation that everything IS working correctly and I'm with @GTSBoy for a plan of action here. I'd be checking subframes, bushes, exhaust hangers, interior bits and generally QOL things and CONFIRMING they are working right before thinking about motor. You can get 250KW+ on stock RB26 hardware by simply removing the built in restrictors and tuning the stock ECU. If you want purity that's as far to take it, which I would be worried to do and won't think the budget would allow for when earnestly checking for 30+ year old car stuff.
    • I specifically said buy new performance car because of the use case here (i.e, no track use and fun livable everything/do it all easily if not especially amazing as a drivers car). Tracking an 80K Skyline and an 80K M2 makes the BMW the obviously more risky purchase WHEN something goes wrong you suddenly can't easily fix it with hand tools and readily available parts that you may have a community of people you know available, or years of your own knowledge on the platform to apply. There's reasons you see Hondas and Vettes and RB's and Miatas and such at tracks, you can easily hand-tool repair 99.9% of it in a shed, usually with the tools and the skillset of the owner to apply to it. An i30N is not going to beat a R chassis unless it's got massive problems either. The old cars can, and still do work great. The problem is - and always has been - social media would have you believe it's simple and easy to achieve the results you see online.  People want their car to be like "one of those cool JDM cars" which is the default image people have when they think of  "cool JDM cars" You are paying 25 years of catchup R&D to achieve. Or the knowledge somebody else has to do it for you, which is big dollar restomod stuff.  The bar has been moved and every R chassis that people see/like/enjoy has 25 years of R&D thrown at it, or is owned by someone who did all that work and has that knowledge over the past 25 years. All the survivors have been progressively resto-modded the entire time. OR you slowly bring it back to how it was stock. Which is also prohibitively expensive, done for the love of it. This is what the JDM community is now. This is fine, but "Where do I start?" is either: 1) Don't 2) Take your own slow journey but you cannot compare your progress with others who have had 25 years of R&D and experience building their own cars unless you pay for it.
    • Yep, with the crazy inflation of the value of our cars these past couple of years this became a problem for me too... My solution is to transition to bikes. Everything feels so cheap compared to tracking the skyline lol
×
×
  • Create New...