Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1991 BNR32 GTR with a little over 100K (original) on the clock in Gunmetal Grey. All modifications fully engineered and road registered.

RB30 block conversion (increasing capacity to 3.1lt) is putting out an easy and reliable 330Kw at the wheels at 16psi. It has so much torque currently (over 800nm) I have not bothered boosting more. The Garrett GT2860r-5s turbines spool extremely quickly with minimal lag. With a fuel system rated for 24+psi, 400KW ATW is very achieveable. The suspension is superbly sorted and this must be one of the best handling cars I have ever driven. The TEIN Superstreet struts are one of the most supple for distance driving and can quickly be firmed up with in-cabin dampener controller. Equally the HKS ATTESSA controller gives full in-cabin control of the 4WD. You can put all the power to the back for drift sessions or balance 50/50 for wet canyon driving. The CUSCO 2-way rear diff gives extremely smooth control of the tail when drifting. The cabin has dynamat body soundproofing and the HKS Superdragger exhaust is regarded as one of the quietest of the ‘full power’ exhaust systems making long road trips comfortable. The massive 6 pot brakes are really overkill for road driving but great for track days. The 8lt racing sump and special oil pressure regulator for extreme G-force cornering ensures you will drive the car home from track days rather than on a trailer!

I am looking for $25K firm.

Contact

Andrew

0401291436

a_le_lievre@hotmail.com

The car runs fine however and I drive it to work most days.

Here are the specs.

POWER TRAIN

Bottom End (new motor 7K km ago)

RB30E Series 1 block, decked level to 0 deck height, acid dipped, pressure tested and bored to 87mm.(3060 cc)

RB30E Series 1 crank, balanced and micro polished, fitted with JUN oil pump drive extension.

Nissan N1 oil pump

Nissan N1 water pump

Standard rods, shot peened.

CP 87mm forged piston set, balanced with CP chrome-moly ring set. 8.5:1 compression height flat top pistons

ACL racing bearing set

RB30 ARP main stud kit

Full Nissan gasket kit

Fitzpatrick AWD sump adapter

Custom sump with TOMEI baffle

Custom oil surge pressure tank

Top End

Reconditioned RB26 head with new valves 7K km ago.

ARP head stud kit

Tomei Poncam ‘B’ 260 duration in/out - 9.15 lift

1mm Tomei metal head gasket

1.2mm oil restrictors

Auxiliaries

Garrett GT2860r-5s turbines

X-force HKS-style split dumps and extractors

Aftermarket front pipe

HKS SuperDragger cat-back exhaust

CATCO 5" metallic cat

SARD 700cc injectors

SARD in-tank fuel pump

TOMEI fuel pressure regulator

Custom oil catch can with smaller battery

Cooling Pro 600 x 300 x 100mm fin & tube FMIC

Twin Blitz blow-off valves on custom rail

D-Link ECU

Profec -B-Spec. II Boost Controller

Splitfire igniters & earthing kit

Custom ARC-style air intake box

HKS adjustable cam gears

ARC radiator diffuser

ORC twin plate clutch

Cusco RS 2-way mechanical rear differential

Reconditioned gearbox (9/06)

NISMO radiator and oil caps

BRAKES & SUSPENSION

Stock front brace, Kansai racing rear brace

NISMO front circuit link & upper arm set

CUSCO adjustable tension rod set

Kansai racing lower brace bar set

ARC front and rear hollow stabilizer set

Front & rear roll centre adjuster kit

NISMO rear lower arm set

Pillow ball adjustable rear upper arm set with dust caps

HICAS lock bar with all hydraulics removed

Aluminium rear sub frame lower bushings

TEIN Super Street (Japan spec) coil over suspension (with EDFC control)

G4 356mm slotted front rotors with 8 spot calipers & SS lines

Brembo 320mm N1 rear rotors& calipers with S/S lines

OTHER ELECTRONICS

DEFI Link boost, water & exhaust temp in triple dashpod with glovebox mounted controller

APEXI Turbo timer/A/F meter

TEIN EDFC damper controller

HKS ATTESSA controller with Drag Option (very rare)

Mongoose Immobilizer Alarm

INTERIOR

Tinted rear and side glass

R33 GT-R front seats

NISMO steering wheel and shift knob

SONY CDXGT150 CD/Tuner

6" 190W door and rear shelf speakers

Pioneer SSW104D Slim-line 10" Subwoofer in custom trunk box

Pioneer 230W 4 channel bridgeable Amp

Dynamat Extreme sound-proofing in rear half of car

EXTERIOR

NISMO front bar with N1 vents

N1 side-skirt and rear pods

Carbon fibre bonnet with clips

Custom front lower lip

Ganador replica carbon fibre style mirrors

R34 GT-R rims with 265/35s tyres (nitrogen filled)

Alloy wheel and lock nuts

LED reverse, park and plate lights

Nissan fog lights

Fiamme air horns

There are a few niggles that need sorting

Issues that need sorting;

  • Parking rubs on 1 corner
  • A little gutter rash on 2 rims
  • Carbon Fibre bonnet needs crack repair

More photos to follow

post-31511-0-13442400-1379163116_thumb.jpg

post-31511-0-71504200-1379163145_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all. I am aware there is lots of discussions about jacking points, where to lift the car and what not. But as usual just a lot of "in my opinion" and nothing definitive, and everyone does it in a different way. I want to hear from some experienced people on which points on the car it's okay/safe/recommended to lift the car using a four point hoist/lift. I will attach some images of my underbody. Sills are largely okayish, the driver side jacking point is pretty mangled though and it looks like the underfloor is slightly pushed in too, but I might be wrong. In the German Skyline forum, the consensus is to use the sidemember chassis rails in the front and the rear subframe? bushing in the rear. I know the manual says to never use the sidemember for loading but lots of folk do it and it was definitely done on my car too as they are slightly bent too. Based on the images, what points do I use to not make the already present damage worse? I'd use wood or rubber blocks to spread the load across a bigger area of course. Driver side sidemember and jacking point mangled one) https://imgur.com/a/eKjzrJX Driver side rear jacking point https://imgur.com/a/W3DWF1P Passenger side sidemember and jacking point https://imgur.com/a/65UvIJe Passenger side rear jacking point https://imgur.com/a/h3k7j53 We can also see some underbody rust but so far it all looks somewhat treatable and nothing that requires a Yoshida style restoration.
    • Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
×
×
  • Create New...