Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have a 1993 r33 gtst. since the hicas light came on my steering has become hard and i read here that taking out the hicas system and replacing it with a hicas elimination bar helps. so 2 weeks ago i did just that. I followed the guideline as it was posted on here but my steering is still hard and the hicas light is still on. anyone got any suggestions

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431859-removed-hicas/
Share on other sites

R33 hicas is not mechanical, it's electrical - your getting the hicas is in limp mode, lets stiffen the steering wheel crap... If you have stock ecu try doing the HICAS diagnostics test - there should be a thread about it on this forums!

Ps: my car does it to, i got used to it, so over trying to fix it (I can't run diagnostics because I have a microtech ecu)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431859-removed-hicas/#findComment-7020707
Share on other sites

use search.

i believe there is a green cable on the hicas ecu that you snip. this disables hicas all together. yours is still enabled but locked. so will throw fault codes. diagnostics will not help you.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431859-removed-hicas/#findComment-7024966
Share on other sites

On a 32 its the green wire.

Under the parcel shelf theres a little box with wires, but i dunno about 33.

Sooo... Can I cut the green one yet! :devil:

Light still always on, completely been removed & lockbar fitted.

Edited by ZRBE
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431859-removed-hicas/#findComment-7025393
Share on other sites

yep diagnostic didnt work so now i will look for the green wire. just to be sure it is the green wire for the r33

search mate this topic has been covered lots and lots of times. and recently as well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431859-removed-hicas/#findComment-7028381
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Why search when you can ask a question then wait ages for someone to maybe respond?

so did this fix it? if you have fixed it, just let us know what it was. another site member is having the same issues.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431859-removed-hicas/#findComment-7075115
Share on other sites

Here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/428671-diy-stop-hicas-warning-light-without-bulb-removal/

no dodgy bulb removal bs

and there could be multiple reasons why your steering is heavy.. either HICAS ECU dead, fuse blow, steering rack sensor is fuarked, no power steering fluid etc..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431859-removed-hicas/#findComment-7075159
Share on other sites

Why search when you can ask a question then wait ages for someone to maybe respond?

well as u can read above I have a 1993 r33 gtst. after replacing hicas with a lock bar the light was on and my steering was heavy. checked everything but nothing worked. however after seeing the post by DIY MIK I snipped the green wire with a solid white line and now theres no light or heavy steering

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431859-removed-hicas/#findComment-7077430
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Way more than 1cm. Appreciate the advice maybe I try changing the bushing first
    • IMG_8641.mov     She doesn’t sound the best but starts with out using any gas now. I just ran some injector cleaner through her. started roughly the first time after adding it but gave it the beans slowly upto 4k, Must have cleaned a few cobwebs out. another step in the right direction for the sub
    • Sadly I can confirm if you are actually seeking to drift, you will quite easily spin up one wheel. Even if you're going in a straight line. I am not entirely sure of the metrics/terminology here but there's only a certain amount that the helical will actually spin both wheels. I've seen it on video with my own car where two lines of smoke switch over to just one after you really get in to it. Unlike with a clutch diff where you can keep your foot planted until the car regains grip, in my experience with the helical you want to be utilizing traction control allowing LIMITED slip or lifting (partially) when you start to spin up both tyres with a Nissan helical. Which makes them pretty sub optimal for drifting duty. That said... this is probably a helical on numbers alone. Just put the Kazz in
    • Let's just fix the problem by f**king the rest of the gearbox.
    • Unlikely, as per Greg's post. This is not helical diff behaviour unless one wheel is up off the ground. Shimming what? You don't "shim" a mechanical LSD. Probably not in the sense that you have heard of people "shimming" a diff. And the process that Nissan f**kwits call "shimming" a diff involves super-preloading a VLSD cartridge against the side of the diff to create a friction/wear point (in a place that it wasn't supposed to have one) to make the sloppy, useless, viscous diff into a hybrid viscous/mech abortion. In case it isn't clear, I consider the process to be stupid. Nike.
×
×
  • Create New...