Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1996 R33 GTS-T

Recently installed a pod filter box and forgot to fully tighten a pipe clamp on a rubber elbow boot on the hot air intercooler pipe (exiting turbo into Intercooler), driving on a short loop of the F3 and heard a loud pop, lost all boost and power. Struggled for about 1.5km until it was safe to pull over (at 15km/h max). Looked under the bonnet and saw my error, luckily the rubber elbow boot and clamp were still there (but completely blown off the pipe (at both ends). Put it all back together (tightened this time) and drove home (about another 15 minutes), was a little sick sounding and idle searching.

2 weeks later without restarting the car, today it started OK, but blowing a hell of a lot of black smoke (at idle) and soot spray at rev's.

I've cleaned the aac valve and reset the idle (using "insu's" tutorial, thx); but still black smoke at idle and soot spray at revs; smells like it's running very rich (always was rich, but smells more so now).

Any suggestions???? Not game to take it on the road yet.

Oh mods include:

JJR 3” front/dump (heat wrapped), 3” Catco Hiflow cat with 3” Kakimoto catback exhaust, Blitz return flow Fmic, Blitz Sus Pod. Z32 Afm, Havoc Stainless 3” hard intake pipe out of turbo. Jecs 550cc Injectors, Walbro Gss342 intank fuel pump, Splitfire Coil Pack, Hypergear SS1PU Billet turbo with 15 psi actuator, Apexi Power Fc (with hand controller), R33 GTR Bov, boost gaige and turbo timer.

After the hose blew off the car would have been running crazy rich, so perhaps all the carbon and richness is leftover from that. If it was my car I would take out for a thrash and see what happens, I think it would clear itself. whether you do that or not is up to you :)

Change the plugs. They will not last very long at all in a rich state. Then do as suggested, pressure test your intake. After you change the plugs warm it up and give it a few good revs and see how it responds then take it for a spin.

O2 sensor failed? it did the same thing on my 180sx agers ago. Goto PFC console and check the o2 feed back. It should be running out of a cycle of reach and lean or afr +/- 0.5 around 13. If it stays consistent then needs to be replaced.

Alternatively you might have another split hose or some thing similar.

Thx all for the responses, I'll check and replace the plugs. The O2 sensor is disconnected by the previous owner (just unplugged). I haven't reconnnected it, so not sure if it's faulty or was tuned that way. Will make a calll to the tuner to find out.

Stay tuned, just need to wait for the weekend to tinker.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hmmm....need help still???

Cleaned the AAC valve again, replaced the plugs (Iridiums, 0.8 gap), replaced the O2 sensor (it apparently was faulty), replaced the oil filter and oil.....still black smoke at idle and spitting black sooty oily smoke at rev's???? and smells very rich still.

Have also installed a D1Spec Oil catch can.

Oh also installed blue LED dash lights too (i got bored.....) Looks very cool.

How do I adjust the air/fuel ratio?

Will a good tune help or just a mechanic to diagnose??

Oh forgot to add, how do I pressure test the intake? (as suggested by scotty nm35 & SargeRX8).

if you typed that into the search box you would get your answer instantly :)

You must still have a boost leak somewhere. Check all piping, make sure they are all tight, maybe you have a split somewhere

dude, his previous post just said he bought a boost leak tester, so i assume that's what he is going to do!

also check your afm, it might have decided its had enough at the same time as your pipe popped off coincidence like.

my 33 had the same problem and after considerable stuffing around I found my afm connector pins were dry jointed.

  • 4 weeks later...
Got the Boost Leak Tester (image below), found a major leak in the BOV gasket (now fixed) and 2 small slow leaks in some hose clamps (clamps replaced). New plugs installed, cleaned the MAF sensor and everything else cleaned again. Car running much better but still a bit of black smoke and boost/turbo flutter above 10psi boost (was tuned to 15psi). Sounds to me like a air/fuel mixture issue. Time for a tune.
Had the bonnet up on Reservior road (near the quarry) on Sunday when another black skykline drove down the hill and tooted / waved at me. Cheers mate, looked up and waved, but you were gone. Love the skyline love.
Also added some photo's on the old and new blue dash LED's.

Old Dash lights (now changed to Blue LED

New Blue LED

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't do it if your gearbox box has already having syncro issues. The short hifter will put a greater load on them. If you must I remember Nismo did a shorter shifter, with the top part being physically shorter and the part that went into the gearbox was the same as stock. In saying that I've had a C's short shifter (I think) in mine for many years, which was given to me as the previous owner was not sympathetic to the gearbox. Thus forwarned I was careful and had to modify my normal changing style. You have to be super accurate with your clutch and shifts
    • Well, after a week of daily driving and having to crawl out between the wheel and the side intrusion bars. I got myself a quick release setup. I went with an NRG short hub and Quick Release with some cute heart cutouts on the pull tabs. Nice and matchy matchy with the rest of the interior accents I have going on.  The only downside is the total stack height even with the short adapter is longer than the old HKB boss kit. Luckily I had some adjustment left on the column so move the wheel away.
    • stock shifter with new bushes, springs and cup will improve it. Gktech do all the bits. The opinion as the years have gone on is the redline is not great in old gearboxes.
    • Hi all   what short shifter do you use on your skykine r34?   my synchronous does have a problem and i was getting huge delay and grinding sound between 2nd and 3rd, did put shockproof red heavy stuff and it is great now/ no issues   would in your view short shifter screw this up?   people seems to suggest/ use cube short shifter and there is standard and premium. Seen review of premium as much better and less play. Thoughts?
    • Yeah, there's a bit of a density and friability difference between pebbles and any of those other things. Silicone will definitely float in oil and so will be mobile enough to move around. Although, again, if it is upstream of the filter it really shouldn't go any further. I would only ever worry about silicone when it is in places downstream of the filter. Upstream of the pickup is a whole 'nother matter. We've all seen what that does. I have seen the most abominable crap settled out in industrial gearboxes, trunnion lube systems and the like, without any sign that any of it has touched anything in the machine. Just chilling in the bottom, waiting for the inevitable operator error that causes the whole machine to need to be dismantled for repairs.
×
×
  • Create New...