Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1996 R33 GTS-T

Recently installed a pod filter box and forgot to fully tighten a pipe clamp on a rubber elbow boot on the hot air intercooler pipe (exiting turbo into Intercooler), driving on a short loop of the F3 and heard a loud pop, lost all boost and power. Struggled for about 1.5km until it was safe to pull over (at 15km/h max). Looked under the bonnet and saw my error, luckily the rubber elbow boot and clamp were still there (but completely blown off the pipe (at both ends). Put it all back together (tightened this time) and drove home (about another 15 minutes), was a little sick sounding and idle searching.

2 weeks later without restarting the car, today it started OK, but blowing a hell of a lot of black smoke (at idle) and soot spray at rev's.

I've cleaned the aac valve and reset the idle (using "insu's" tutorial, thx); but still black smoke at idle and soot spray at revs; smells like it's running very rich (always was rich, but smells more so now).

Any suggestions???? Not game to take it on the road yet.

Oh mods include:

JJR 3” front/dump (heat wrapped), 3” Catco Hiflow cat with 3” Kakimoto catback exhaust, Blitz return flow Fmic, Blitz Sus Pod. Z32 Afm, Havoc Stainless 3” hard intake pipe out of turbo. Jecs 550cc Injectors, Walbro Gss342 intank fuel pump, Splitfire Coil Pack, Hypergear SS1PU Billet turbo with 15 psi actuator, Apexi Power Fc (with hand controller), R33 GTR Bov, boost gaige and turbo timer.

After the hose blew off the car would have been running crazy rich, so perhaps all the carbon and richness is leftover from that. If it was my car I would take out for a thrash and see what happens, I think it would clear itself. whether you do that or not is up to you :)

Change the plugs. They will not last very long at all in a rich state. Then do as suggested, pressure test your intake. After you change the plugs warm it up and give it a few good revs and see how it responds then take it for a spin.

O2 sensor failed? it did the same thing on my 180sx agers ago. Goto PFC console and check the o2 feed back. It should be running out of a cycle of reach and lean or afr +/- 0.5 around 13. If it stays consistent then needs to be replaced.

Alternatively you might have another split hose or some thing similar.

Thx all for the responses, I'll check and replace the plugs. The O2 sensor is disconnected by the previous owner (just unplugged). I haven't reconnnected it, so not sure if it's faulty or was tuned that way. Will make a calll to the tuner to find out.

Stay tuned, just need to wait for the weekend to tinker.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hmmm....need help still???

Cleaned the AAC valve again, replaced the plugs (Iridiums, 0.8 gap), replaced the O2 sensor (it apparently was faulty), replaced the oil filter and oil.....still black smoke at idle and spitting black sooty oily smoke at rev's???? and smells very rich still.

Have also installed a D1Spec Oil catch can.

Oh also installed blue LED dash lights too (i got bored.....) Looks very cool.

How do I adjust the air/fuel ratio?

Will a good tune help or just a mechanic to diagnose??

Oh forgot to add, how do I pressure test the intake? (as suggested by scotty nm35 & SargeRX8).

if you typed that into the search box you would get your answer instantly :)

You must still have a boost leak somewhere. Check all piping, make sure they are all tight, maybe you have a split somewhere

dude, his previous post just said he bought a boost leak tester, so i assume that's what he is going to do!

also check your afm, it might have decided its had enough at the same time as your pipe popped off coincidence like.

my 33 had the same problem and after considerable stuffing around I found my afm connector pins were dry jointed.

  • 4 weeks later...
Got the Boost Leak Tester (image below), found a major leak in the BOV gasket (now fixed) and 2 small slow leaks in some hose clamps (clamps replaced). New plugs installed, cleaned the MAF sensor and everything else cleaned again. Car running much better but still a bit of black smoke and boost/turbo flutter above 10psi boost (was tuned to 15psi). Sounds to me like a air/fuel mixture issue. Time for a tune.
Had the bonnet up on Reservior road (near the quarry) on Sunday when another black skykline drove down the hill and tooted / waved at me. Cheers mate, looked up and waved, but you were gone. Love the skyline love.
Also added some photo's on the old and new blue dash LED's.

Old Dash lights (now changed to Blue LED

New Blue LED

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, does anyone know how I can, or can a moderator remove this advertisement please.  Has been sold a long time ago and would like to remove references. Thanks. 
    • There are adaptors that allow you to delete the booster and use an s15 clutch master cylinder.    if you want to keep the booster they are still available brand new 
    • I visited again today: It would appear they have painted the main body of the car and some parts of some of the panels, so I can say that I now have BMW parts in my car, much to the envy of @Dose Pipe Sutututu It is still covered in dust which is quite the tease but I did look at a few circumspect spots that will be behind bumpers and such and wiped some dust away: After my repeated begging to PLEASE DONT PAINT OVER THE ENGINEERING CERTIFICATE (you have to re-engineer the entire car if they do) I see THIS: Which is great. Excellent job tbh at least to me. A better non dusty example would be the backs of the doors that have been painted: Giving a reasonable contrast between old and new (I know the old isn't clear coated on the inside of doors). The door card will well and truly cover where the old paint is, you can see in the second pic some of the black butyl/whatever shit is sticking the plastic sheet behind the door transfer that has happened since it's clearly been stuck back on. The most maddening thing about this colour is every time I saw it in the wild it looks like another colour, same with photos of many cars with the same colour looking wildly different in every photo anybody ever takes and this is no exception. But stand a little further back and it suddenly looks dark AF. I did tell them when I was discussing which of the 70 million charcoal colours to choose from (a porsche one, a BMW one, or a R32 GTR one etc) that if they just ignored me and chose one at random I would probably never notice. Maybe they did. But the colour is supposed to be B39 (BMW Mineral Gray). Boring I know, but the R34 sedan (to me) really shows off it's boat-ness when you paint it in a bright colour like bayside blue or white or whatever else. I do have a fondness for AR2 Nissan Red, but decided against that because it'll have pretty odd contrast to random bits unpainted (like engine bay, bits of trim etc, and maybe it'll fade). And people will always fkin comment on AR2. Everything remains super dusty. I have tracking numbers for the new heads, as well as some Improved Racing goodies, but they probably will be a next year thing by the time they end up on the car. I did some maths on the heads and I know why nobody goes to this extent in Australia, because it's really not worth it, given I could have just CNC'ed my current heads, bought a FAST102/TB and used my current rocker/spring/cam combination and get a 383 stroker (or stroked a 6.0 GenIV bottom end to 6.6L) built for the same price of just the setup in the mail/on the floor here. Or I could have bought a LS3 and a Drysump system. And then have a complete engine to sell. Oh well
    • We just disconnected the vacuum line if I remember correctly, booster is still there. Is there a rebuild solution for the booster or a different adapter that will work for GTR chassis?
    • Yeah 4wd (boosted) has a recess in the firewall for the booster, and 2wd is flat - the example in the link shows the flat surface. When you deleted the booster, did you just attach the factory slave cylinder directly to the recess in the firewall with no adaption?  
×
×
  • Create New...