Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

Weekend just passed I bought a R32 GTR, or the two halves of one seeing as the engine and box did not come in the car.

Now I have owned/worked on/driven many cars in my 23 years of age, but I have never had to get up close and personal with a Nissan. Much of my history has been Subaru.

Nonetheless I am pretty excited about this one, it is a dream car and though I currently cant enjoy it I plan on having it ready in the not so distant future, so I will probably be calling on your expertise rather frequently. If I bought a Subaru in its current state I would be pretty confident that I could get it together and running within a weekend, however not knowing where half the stuff goes, how to do it and sometimes what it is is going to make this difficult.

Here some pics of the old girl, once I get he going I will be giving her some new paint on the bonnet, some nice wheels and some other goodies

th_553549_10200296684173867_942940760_n_

th_1175543_10200296684453874_1683331115_

th_1186226_10200296684653879_1286057362_

th_1185604_10200296685173892_1982728293_

th_1234392_10200296685493900_1799395831_

th_1000349_10200296686053914_676172821_n

I have already got a workshop manual on order and will be doing the timing belt tomorrow, so can anyone point me in the right direction on how to do an RB timing belt in case I dont get a manual?

And because some of you will know the tricks of the trade, do I drop in the engine and box bolted together or install box and then drop engine in and bolt together?

A couple more things, I have a boot full of hoses, lines and many other things so I may have to upload pictures at a later date and ask your where they go as I currently have a very bare engine bay.

I believe power steering pumps are universal across the board? as I am missing mine

And the lower bumper lip has gone MIA since I first inspected it, is it something I can get elsewhere or rare as hens teeth?

Thanks in advance guys, look forward to catching up when I get her running!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431972-my-bnr32-godzilla/
Share on other sites

Hey congrats on new project mate

Coming from a Suby background all i can say is everything you THINK a part should cost for this car, double it lol

As for your engine/gearbox question i put mine in as a bolted package, very tight squeeze but it fits (obviously without any gear in front of it but by sounds of it you'd already know that)

As for parts being rare for these, you can essentially buy a WHOLE car out of Japan if your cheque book is big enough. I have already spent thousands on new parts myself, PM Chris Rogers here on these forums, that's who i got to import my parts

I think nothing looks better than a car with a new paint job, if i was you i'd save the lil extra and get whole car resprayed, looks soo much better

Lot of guys here on forums would be willing to lend a hand if you ask them nicely (and i in your area obviously lol)

Thanks for that, I was hoping to drop the engine and box in together, looks like i will need to get the dump pipes out of the way first, no biggie.

I may end up having this Chris bloke on speed dial as I am not too sure what I need, looking forward to have my savings dwindle though.

I won't be going the full respray, the paint is pretty good besides some oxidation on the bonnet and slight fading on the boot.

As for help, that would be much appreciated, but it is being stored in Nagambie, which is in the middle of nowhere unfortunately, but I do have access to a hoist and engine crane etc. There so it makes it worth the drive for me

Yeah I got it off Harley, seemed like a good bloke

The engine has stock internals (I havent been told otherwise) with N1 turbos and adjustable cam gears

The cam gears is why I was asking about the timing belt, as I havent done a belt with adjustable gears before and dont want to stuff it up as the head has just been rebuilt.

Any advice from you guys? A how to? youtube?
Ta

"And the lower bumper lip has gone MIA since I first inspected it, is it something I can get elsewhere or rare as hens teeth?"

not rare but about $350-$400 new

Edited by Sinista32
  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys, thanks for the info about the lower lip, I'm still trying to chase down the seller as he possibly still has it

Anyway, I went to change the timing belt today only to find that the crank pulley is a royal pain in the arse to get off and gave up after many attempts

But I noticed this-
2013-09-28131402_zps5792348a.jpg

As far as I can tell, someone has attempted to drill the spigot bush out, will this give me grief later?

Just get the correct tool and remove it and fit a new one

I dont think I will be able to get the purchase on it with one of those, I have been told to use an ankascrew sort of bolt

In the meantime I just want to double check that the crank bolt isnt left handed thread? otherwise I have made it seriously f#@k'n tight...

...As after the ratchet gun failed....

I had a 20mm billet bar wedged between 2 bolts in the flywheel stopping it from turning and a breaking bar on the freeze and released bolt with a 3m pole on the end and started pulling. I bent the bolts in the flywheel and the breaker bar was flexing pretty well.

So yeah, if she is left handed thread, she is now gonna be a pit of a PITA to get out

  • 2 months later...

Ok guys, so I haven't been able to get a lot done on this old girl (see: nothing). Been working flat out and Christmas and shit. Just don't have the time.

Can anyone recommend a user on the forum competent wit gtrs that you'd recommend and may be interested in putting her together for some coinage?

I'm happy to help in any way I can (if they want, I might just be a nuisance)

Just an idea

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
×
×
  • Create New...