Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys,

My e-boost is set now so that when i run SP3 (highest boost setting 17psi) the car reaches it in every gear. First gear wheelspins around 4000rpm and I need to change gears and dont have full boost in second which makes the car a lot slower. I would love to run 12-14psi in 1st gear and then 17psi in the other gears.

Is this possible with the e-boost?

The instruction guide is useless to me.

Evan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43209-e-boost-question/
Share on other sites

You can't program it to run differet boost in different gears. What you can do is set it up with SP2 andSP3 hardwired to switches. I have 2 rocket switches in the centre console just in front of the storage compartment 1 green and 1 red. My normal everyday boost is 14.5psi, flipping the green switch brings up SP2 at 18psi and the red one SP3 at 22psi.

So use normal boost in first then change to 2nd and as your hand comes off the gearlever it falls to the switches and you flip on whichever one you want.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43209-e-boost-question/#findComment-882317
Share on other sites

The latest in Hi-tech electronics, featuring a 16 bit RISC based FLASH memory CPU – faster and smoother boost response

Utilises the latest in surface mount technology – lighter, smaller and ultra compact

Electronics are housed in an anodised billet aluminium alloy housing – offering durability and reliability in harsh race conditions

Programmable gate pressure function to totally eliminate wastegate creep - you tell the wastegate when to open

Three internally or externally activated and individually programmable boost set points

Drag racers - improve your launch, run a different boost in each gear

High accuracy boost and vacuum display, readout accurate to within +/- 0.5% of full scale, boost gauge no longer required – great value

Readout can be tailored to suit your needs – display can be configured in KPA, Bar or PSI

Easy to read seven segment display with programmable bar graph and glow in the dark buttons

Programmable auxiliary output – e.g. water spray control, water/methanol injection, boost light

Programmable audible warning alarm – excellent for over-boost warning or full boost confirmation

Peak hold/Max Boost recall function

Revolutionary gauge type construction allows many practical mounting solutions – 66mm in diameter 55mm long. Suitable for Panel mounting, or in any 2 5/8 inch gauge pod or pillar mounting system.

unless that means exactly as you describe without pointing out that it requires additional wiring etc, if so i stand corrected

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43209-e-boost-question/#findComment-882639
Share on other sites

Guys,

My e-boost is set now so that when i run SP3 (highest boost setting 17psi) the car reaches it in every gear. First gear wheelspins around 4000rpm and I need to change gears and dont have full boost in second which makes the car a lot slower. I would love to run 12-14psi in 1st gear and then 17psi in the other gears.  

Is this possible with the e-boost?

The instruction guide is useless to me.

Evan

I use the throttle to control the wheelspin :thankyou:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43209-e-boost-question/#findComment-882640
Share on other sites

thanks for the replies.

in the guide it has a section about the sensitivity.

Automatically set to 10. Adjustments can be between 0-99.

Sensitivity too low - Achieve more boost in high gears

- Takes longer to achieve boost set point

- Boost drops off at higher RPM

Sensitivity correct - Boost rises quickly and is steady

Sensitivity too high - Boost pressure fluctuates, cycles or is not smooth

- Boost pressure overshoots set point - rises too fast

51jay, Good idea I might have to look in to that, thanks.

Jimbo, I guess if thats what it says I will ring them.

Sydneykid, yeh trying that, I need more skills.

Thanks guys

If anyone does know how else to do it please reply.

I will ring turbosmart and see what they say and update the thread.

Evan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43209-e-boost-question/#findComment-882685
Share on other sites

Quote

Drag racers - improve your launch, run a different boost in each gear

Well you could do it in 3 gears as e-boost has 3 available settings for boost level, however e-boost will not change between these boost levels for you . You have to exhert yourself either by pressing the up/down buttons on the e-boost itself or by hardwiring sp2 and sp3 through a switch or switches. e-boost defaults to sp1 when turned on.

rb20-calais you really need to set it up on a dyno or if on the road...with someone who knows what he's doing it's mostly a trial and error thing so make sure you have a reasonable overboost cut set befor you fiddle

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43209-e-boost-question/#findComment-882897
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, just just bought an 1999 enr34 with a stock rb25neo and I'm looking to upgrade the engine to 500whp I know some basic things but wondering if there are things I'll need to do to upgrade the stock block and all the bits and pieces to achieve this.
    • Thanks everyone for the replies and suggestions. Got the seats out (hoping I could find some existing grommets but no such luck). By tapping and measuring etc. I could figure out where I could drill through if needed. But first I borrowed an inspection camera and managed to go through factory holes in the chassis rail and could see that the captive nut was holding steady which is why it could retighten. So it was indeed a stripped section of thread, so I applied downforce by levering the bolt head with a screwdriver and went slowly back and forth until it came out. Camera helped a lot cos I could monitor that the captive nut was holding tight. Now I just have one very seized main subframe nut to tackle 😅
    • BOVs do have a purpose, if you ever log pressure before and after the throttle body, you will see a spike pre throttle on lift off from a WOT condition. Enough to bend throttle blades / damage e-throttle motors or simple assist in blowing off cooler pipes. FWIW, the above on really applies to those running at least 2 bar of boost. OP shouldn't have an issue, on the other hand, here are some videos of my shit box over a decade ago with some succulent dose with the airbox on and off. That shit box is unrecognisable these days 🫠    
    • I've tried all different combinations of BOVs/ no BOV and stock bypass valves over the years, on gear changes the stock bypass valve seems to get the car back on boost quicker because in part the turbos wheel speed isn't being slowed down by reversion, although they have issues holding boost much over the stock setting. Most aftermarket BOVs you can adjust the spring, tighter will make it open later and close sooner, but in my experience it'll cause a bit of flutter at low load/rpm anyway. I've also got some input into this whole no bov causing turbo wear, never had an issue on any on my turbos HOWEVER, I got my R33 GTST with 200k kms on it, with from what I can see still has the original turbo, no lateral shaft play but has about 4-5mm of play in and out which to me seems like a worn thrust bearing from years (100-150k kms?) of turbo flutter running no bov, so maybe there is some truth to it in the long run. But that'll never stop me loving the Stutututu while I have the car.   OP just wants to know if he can run a atmo vented BOV with no major issues and the answer is YES, plenty of people do it, there's no harm in installing it and seeing how it runs before spending $$$ on an aftermarket ecu, last time I bought a Nistune it was $2400 for install and a tune , unsure of todays prices but you get me. Crazy money to spend just to fix the minor inconvenience of stalling that can be overcome by letting the revs come down to near idle before putting the clutch in or a little bit of throttle to avoid it. You're better off leaving the ecu and tune for after a bigger turbo/injectors have been installed to take full advantage of the tune and get your moneys worth.   Let OP have his Whoosh sound without trying to break his bank haha
    • I see you missed the rest of the conversation where they have benefits, but nothing to do with avoiding breaking turbos, which is what the aftermarket BOV made all the fan boys, tuners, and modders believe was the only purpose for them...
×
×
  • Create New...