Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi peeps, I recently bought my first Skyline with some damage to the drivers corner. Panel work is done (: so i started looking at the engine. I started the car and the idle was rough with it idleing high and low very quickly I noticed that one of the injectors where leaking so I pulled them out got my injector guy to have a look at them and he found two to be faulty and need replaced. I got 2 injectors and serviced them and wacked them back in. Started the car it has fixed the rough idle car still seam's to be a little out on idle but rev meter says 900rpm and it idles high and low???? Has anyone had this issue help would be very much appreciated. Thanks guys




I have gone over my hose's with carby cleaner, Blocked my BOV (put a plate over the gasket) and checked my wastgate (not seized)



Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/432154-r32-rb20det-idle-problem/
Share on other sites

I removed the ACC and cleanded the buid up (there was abit of oil or carbon) still has a bad idle (reving up and down)

I tryed to locate the IAC but couldnt find it but with some help from a helpfull message that was sent from a SAU user (thanks again for the info)

I turned my attention to the air regulator I blocked it started the car and it is still has a bad idle

ok guys bit of a mix up by me. Instead of taking off the ACC and cleaning the spring and screw i pulled off the ACC solinode. I just cleaned it and put it back together thanks to DIY search and I then begun to set the idle screw. I disconnected the ACC plug and I found myself closing the screw all the way down to get to 900rpm i open it abit and now im getting 950rpm but car gets to 1200rpm even 1500 sometimes. this happens when i give it abit of throttle car dosnt react when i brake or turn the stearing wheel.

ok guys this is where I am today. I went over the intercooler hoses and clamps, cleaned my AFM, cleaned the BOV, cleaned the ACC (spring and screw), cleaned the IAC valve and cleaned the throttle body. after doing all this started the car and same result (idle floats between) 900 and 1200rpm.

I also remembered that a SUA user mentioned the injector seal on the manifold I found that number 1 injector is leaking from the top part of the injector. I removed it and swiched the seals with number 2 and number one still leaked. My injector guy will receive a very happy call tomorrow. I have tryed to set my idle screw (ACC) but cant get a good idle I think due to the injector leaking.

oh I also pumped the brakes continues and the idle went down pretty fast??? I think the booster has a vac leak causing this idle???

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you like more modern stuff than the R series, you should check out a V37 400R, they are pretty mod friendly
    • Haha luckily we don't have emissions, inspections, or any laws against power adders here. They only thing they somewhat keep an eye out for are ridiculously loud exhausts. 
    • Just wanted to pop in an update on my setup. The CD swap has been great, I love the mazworks housing for the overall simplicity. I ended up sealing my trans tunnel with a thin sheet of aluminum reused some of the holes on the trans tunnel, and laid some window sealing EPS foam around the edges. Works great, really quieted things down and sealed up the car.  As for the power comment. Right now I am also running about 650whp. with the way the bell housing is attached to the face of the transmission I have zero doubts it would be fine, mainly because the input shaft and main shaft bearings are seated into the bell housing adapter. This means the load is NOT on the bolts to maintain the power, rather into he casing of the bell housing; Yes the bolts are doing some work there, but with both shafts locked in zero worries.  End of the day, the Mazworks solution is the easiest and safest. no need to take your trans to a shop to get milled perfectly, it fits with minimal clearancing, and you can use all your existing clutch and flywheel.  Driving wise the CD has been great compared to the big box, I'll probably swap my final drive at some point. The serial 9 shifter is gooooood, my only qualm is how tight it is, it takes a fair bit to get use to, 5th and 6th are a bit eh/hard to find at times, but maybe I need re-adjusting, and I think my clutch master is very tired and needs a rebuild. 
    • If you are keen, have a look at my build thread. Car is for sale for the right money or straight swap for a F80 M3 LCI.
    • Welcome mate.  No point in over thinking it, buying any one of those cars you mentioned is not a smart or logical choice with the availability of many "better" (re price to performance) cars available to you.  The heart wants what the heart wants, buy whatever it leads you too.
×
×
  • Create New...