Jump to content
SAU Community

Reverting To Stock Help! Gts R33

iTwix

By iTwix,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted (edited)

I would walk into an exhaust shop or performance workshop carrying that turbo and exhaust kit and ask to buy sufficient suitable fasteners to hold it all together. The dump is usually held on to the turbo outlet with a mixture of bolts and a couple of studs (due to lack of access to get bolts through). The dump onto the down/front pipe will want decent fasteners that can take the heat. (Same with the turbo-dump fasteners for that matter, plus you want to have decent dome washers or locking fasteners or lock tabs or something to stop them coming loose and falling off).

That "blow off valve" is not a BOV, it is a wastegate, which you won't need if you swap back to standard turbo.

Your question marked blue hose elbow needs to be replaced with the original cast alloy crossover pipe, if that is what your new cooler piping kit is intended to hook up with. The cross over pipe also has the point where you put the BOV, plus it has some tapping points used for connecting parts of the emissions gear. If you put a factory BOV onto the factory cross over, you'll also need to put in the pipework to take the BOV outlet back to the turbo inlet.

I tend to agree with the other guys here. You would be better off getting the stuff you have on the car working than trying to go back to stock. Too many niggly things you need to do it right.

The wheels issue is best solved by pissing them off and fitting either stockies or aftermarket ones that actually fit. There is very little reason to use spacers to make the wrong wheels fit beyond appearance/fashion, and cars should not be made to look in a particular way at the expense of functionality. To do so is to not masculine.

Edited by GTSBoy
  • Replies 89
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Cowboy1600
Cowboy1600

Looks like WA plates. The dude has made a boo-boo. Would be good if someone who knows what's what could meet him in person and give him a few pointers. I'd happily do it but haven't got any plans t

ARTZ
ARTZ

Oh yeah get a braided oil feed line Honestly it just looks like your typical.slap.job someone has put together in their backyard and then realized they need to spend 3k on a ecu,injectors and a tun

ARTZ
ARTZ

pffft... considering it can push twice the power from half the capacity I'd say its twice as bulletproof...all depends what you want to do with i guess..if you want a fast car it wins....if you want

Posted Images

Plattsy Grand Master

Plattsy

Posted
Posted

Also keep in mind that spacers for your wheels are illegal and defectable

Not sure why others on here are even suggesting you use them when other options are out there

edit. point has been made and discussed.

StevenCJR31 Veteran

StevenCJR31

Posted
Posted

^^ this! get someone (any furkn one!) who can sort this for you

You are trying to use a combo of stock and aftermarket parts(some good and some not) and trying to make it work for you

The way you are approaching this is going to end in tears and an empty wallet

iTwix Contributor

iTwix

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

You really don't listen to anything I have tried to tell you do you...GL with it champ....you'll need it :thumbsup:

Sorry, couldn't get a good look at the object as it was under my manifolds and i'm new to turbos/ wastegates, it looked totally different to the stock one.

I would walk into an exhaust shop or performance workshop carrying that turbo and exhaust kit and ask to buy sufficient suitable fasteners to hold it all together. The dump is usually held on to the turbo outlet with a mixture of bolts and a couple of studs (due to lack of access to get bolts through). The dump onto the down/front pipe will want decent fasteners that can take the heat. (Same with the turbo-dump fasteners for that matter, plus you want to have decent dome washers or locking fasteners or lock tabs or something to stop them coming loose and falling off).

That "blow off valve" is not a BOV, it is a wastegate, which you won't need if you swap back to standard turbo.

Your question marked blue hose elbow needs to be replaced with the original cast alloy crossover pipe, if that is what your new cooler piping kit is intended to hook up with. The cross over pipe also has the point where you put the BOV, plus it has some tapping points used for connecting parts of the emissions gear. If you put a factory BOV onto the factory cross over, you'll also need to put in the pipework to take the BOV outlet back to the turbo inlet.

I tend to agree with the other guys here. You would be better off getting the stuff you have on the car working than trying to go back to stock. Too many niggly things you need to do it right.

The wheels issue is best solved by pissing them off and fitting either stockies or aftermarket ones that actually fit. There is very little reason to use spacers to make the wrong wheels fit beyond appearance/fashion, and cars should not be made to look in a particular way at the expense of functionality. To do so is to not masculine.

thank you for the information, it was very helpful. i might take everything i have into a shop and see what they can do.

Heres a video on how it runs for anyone that's intrested:

[uploading]

Edited by iTwix
iTwix Contributor

iTwix

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Agreed, its like he is missing all the advice thrown his way

i'm listening to a lot of information. I came into this thread without knowing any of the fuctions of the parts i had, now i know exactly what they do and exactly what i need to achive the build.

i apreciate all comments negative or positive

ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted

i'm listening to a lot of information. I came into this thread without knowing any of the fuctions of the parts i had, now i know exactly what they do and exactly what i need to achive the build.

i apreciate all comments negative or positive

and we appreciate your thread ....you know, for the larfs it has brought us

i hope you get it going one way or another coz it actually looks like a nice 33 ... :thumbsup:

Plattsy Grand Master

Plattsy

Posted
Posted

dave your a kent. but i love ya.

mate. seriouslsy. you are not listening.

put down your tolls, wallet, shitty parts. ask for a pm from someone close to you. call them. let them look. write down what they tell you needs to happen. do it.

pull farkin skids farken.

iTwix Contributor

iTwix

Posted
  • Author
Posted

dave your a kent. but i love ya.

mate. seriouslsy. you are not listening.

put down your tolls, wallet, shitty parts. ask for a pm from someone close to you. call them. let them look. write down what they tell you needs to happen. do it.

pull farkin skids farken.

i've had 2 people from jap car clubs to come have a look at it, and i've taken it to various performance shops recommended by others.

AngryRB Grand Master

AngryRB

Posted
Posted (edited)

what you need is some under bonnet pics of a stock standard engine bay then go search for the parts, quite simple really

im returning mine to stock and will take some pics for you..

some more pieces to your puzzle

post-70965-0-60560400-1380155429_thumb.jpg

post-70965-0-82240600-1380155451_thumb.jpg

Edited by AngryRB
iTwix Contributor

iTwix

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

UPDATE: just blew the old turbo, defiantly rejoicing over my decision to buy stock turbo. Glad i didn't throw on fuel rails and try to tune that setup, like some suggested haha.

Question: can i limp a blown turbo around if i stay off boost for a week?(no smoke yet)

Edited by iTwix

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Nismo coppermix twinplate clutch

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Is there a diameter difference in the stock to Nismo? If so, the weight alone won't be indicative when comparing flywheels of the same diameter, since the radius of the flywheel acts on the moment of inertia with a square factor, where as mass is linear. Roughly going from a 4.5kg flywheel with radius 20cm, to a 9kg flywheel with radius 14cm would see them act the same. This calc is just here to act as a brief numbers comparison and reflects no actual RB flywheel diameters etc. it also assumes even weight distribution (thickness) throughout.
    • MBS206
      Rob's S Chassis track cars. Now with more s15 and less 180sx

      By MBS206 · Posted

      It seems this could be due to a restructure/team direction change... Or... You're working with a different category of vehicle... Or you've decided you'd rather be able to play with your own cars again...   I'm hoping the latter...
    • robbo_rb180
      Rob's S Chassis track cars. Now with more s15 and less 180sx

      By robbo_rb180 · Posted

      had 4 weeks off over xmas and well did some stuff to the shed and BRZ, well short of is I don't work full time in supercars anymore as of yesterday.........
    • MBS206
      Rob's S Chassis track cars. Now with more s15 and less 180sx

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Did you get any down time over Christmas, or have you had any since to play with this? Or have you given up and are trying to get yourself a second hand V8SC instead?
    • MBS206
      High temp brake fluid?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      A random thought I had just before I hit "Submit on this post". If brake fluid, in a container in my garage that has never been opened goes bad after 18 months, why can I leave it in my car for 24 months in an "unsealed container"... Secondly, some other digging, and brake fluid manufacturers seem to be saying 5 year shelf life... Me thinks there line on 18 months for an unsealed bottle is pretty much horse shit marketing spin. Kind of like how if you drive a car and don't run a turbo timer your turbo and motor will die horribly...   Where I started on this though... Someone (me) started down a bit of a rabbit hole, I don't quite have the proper equipment to do Equilibrium Reflux boiling per the proper test standards. I did a little digging on YouTube, and this was the first video I found on someone attempting to "just boil it". This video isn't overly scientific, as we don't have a known reference for his test either. Inaccuracy in his equipment could have him reaching the 460 to 470f boiling point range in reality. In the video, using a laser temp gun, he claims his Dot3 that's been open in his florida garage for over a year gets to about 420 to 430 fahrenheit (215 to 221c) Doing some googling, I located an MSDS for that specific oil, and from new, it claims a dry boiling point of 460 to 470f. Unfortunately they don't list a wet boiling point for us to see how far it degraded toward its "wet" point. While watching it I was thinking "I wonder what the flash point is..." turns out its only 480f for that specific brake fluid....   As for testing the oil's resistance, I might not be able to accurately do that unfortunately. Resistance level will be quite a LOT higher than my system can read I suspect based on some research. However, I might be able to do it by measuring the current when I apply a specific voltage. I won't have an actual water % value, but I'll have some values I can compare between the multitude of fluids. I'll run some vague calculations later and see if I should be able to read any reliable amount of current. These calcs will be based on some values I've found for other oils, and see how close I'll need my terminals together. From memory I can get down to 1pA accuracy on the DMM. I don't think my IOT Power Tester has any better resolution.    
×
×
  • Create New...