Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

I need your help. I'm in the middle of my build and wanting to know if anyone has used Tomei procam 270 with 10.8mm lift in/ex on their rb26/30 build?

It's the full mac daddy build and going into my pro drift car.

Bottom end is JE pistons 8.2:1, nitto I beam rods, Ross balancer, tomei pump etc etc.

I need to know if these cams will be beneficial for drifting where I am chasing mid to top end power (on off throttle a lot) also need to know if they mite be to laggy?

I think you can also get 260duration cams with the same lift?.any better??

Thanks in advance!

Will take a while to fill those cylinders - why did you go for such low compression?

Re the cams - have a read though the "what cams would you choose" thread below.

Will take a while to fill those cylinders - why did you go for such low compression?

I think you might know Joe Kyle? He said to stay with that standard compression ratio. I wanted more but he talked me down ? lol

I would've thought too big. For a drift car you want instant snappy power. With such low comp and big sticks I think you'll struggle to achieve that unless you've got a small super responsive turbo which then defeats the purpose of the big cams cause you're not going to achieve massive top end anyway! With that comp you will be able to push big boost into it but that will only make it a slug until it hits boost then you'll have a huge top end which wouldn't suit drifting.

I would think Poncams would be a lot more suited if you even bother with cams at all.

If it's not too late I'd bump comp up to 9.5:1 and get a mid sized turbo (presume single?) so you've got an engine that makes power straight away then a turbo that comes in not too soon after.

What power are you chasing?

Rb30et is 7.8 to1.

OK just looked up the RB30 PDF and that says RB30E is 8.2:1 and the RB30ET 7.1:1 (although the exact figure would depend on what twin cam head you were using) but whatever that's going back a few years - today you would want better than 9:1 or even more if using E85

OK just looked up the RB30 PDF and that says RB30E is 8.2:1 and the RB30ET 7.1:1 (although the exact figure would depend on what twin cam head you were using) but whatever that's going back a few years - today you would want better than 9:1 or even more if using E85

sorry I wasnt clear, that is with the sohc head it is 7.8:1 .

I would've thought too big. For a drift car you want instant snappy power. With such low comp and big sticks I think you'll struggle to achieve that unless you've got a small super responsive turbo which then defeats the purpose of the big cams cause you're not going to achieve massive top end anyway! With that comp you will be able to push big boost into it but that will only make it a slug until it hits boost then you'll have a huge top end which wouldn't suit drifting.

I would think Poncams would be a lot more suited if you even bother with cams at all.

If it's not too late I'd bump comp up to 9.5:1 and get a mid sized turbo (presume single?) so you've got an engine that makes power straight away then a turbo that comes in not too soon after.

What power are you chasing?

ok I've got some 260 10.25 inlet and 270 10.8mm ex, talked to a few tuners who suggested that duration. Also Ive got JE pistons so i think they only come in 8.2:1 or 9.1? Too late anyhow they've been ordered :wacko: Will post results when all together :bunny:

Too late then!

The lower comp should give you a huge top end when you chase it later on (with big boost) I just hope it does the job for you in the meantime.

Maybe you can just hold it at 6000 rpm minimum with some mad anti lag system and it'll be perfect!

Too late then!

The lower comp should give you a huge top end when you chase it later on (with big boost) I just hope it does the job for you in the meantime.

Maybe you can just hold it at 6000 rpm minimum with some mad anti lag system and it'll be perfect!

Yer thanks mate, I'll post up a video when it runs, let you be the judge :)

  • 10 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Yer thanks mate, I'll post up a video when it runs, let you be the judge :)

what happened with the info/vids, everytime I get interested in something it just stops, I must be a JINKS :(

  • 2 years later...

Old thread! Sorry boys been a while since I have been in the threads. For those wanting to know on results which may help them on their build etc etc

Car made 550Kw on e85 @ 21psi on A Holset Turbo.

Specs;

26Head (cams stated previously)

Nitto I Beam & JE Pistons

ID2000s with e85

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Update: Tunehouse looked into the problem and identified a wiring issue between the camera unit and the connector. They managed to get it working , but did warn me at some point it will stop working again. From their perspective it is unserviceable and will need replacement. They did some research and found that the new replacement camera would be Approx $1400 supply only (their fitting cost would be $190) . They did provide the part number (28442-JL05B) and a quick google of the part number shows that these are rather expensive brand new (seemingly no longer in manufacture) for the places that still have them in stock, with the used option potentially presenting  the same issue down the track at some unknown point. They are happy for me to supply the part so that they can fit it. Decisions, decisions... I can definitely recommend Tunehouse (thankyou Vee37!). Cost for the diagnosis was as quoted  ($190) , car was ready on time and communication was top notch. Their workshop is super clean and modern, and there was plenty of car candy parked out the front on the day I went.   Would definitely go back.   
    • to fix the voltage drop issue I swapped out the old 150amp alternator which turns out is a brand known for having issues and replaced it with the black 180amp alternator beside it 
    • For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on. Edit: Did some more digging and found a helpful Minkara blog post about the conversion as well: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/1831116/car/1360568/2284209/note.aspx "After installation is complete or the battery is replaced, you need to go into self-diagnosis mode and set the internal air recirculation. The way to do it is to "hold OFF with the key on for more than 5 seconds, set the number to 5, then press 卍→C." ↑↑↑It probably won't make sense unless you actually try it (・∀・)." Lol wtf
    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
    • Skip the concrete, we just need to smooth a field. Mark knows how to drive a grader Duncan   I reckon 100x100 flat area for skid pan style, and then some sort tracks for rally... Duncan's already got a rally car on the premises to...
×
×
  • Create New...