Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there i'm chasing some oem parts for my skyline project.

Location SYDNEY NSW

Looking for the following;

RB20DET throttle body

RB20/25/26/30 flywheel

RB20DET starter motor

32 GTS-t indicators pair

32 GTS-t wiper motor

RB20/S1 RB25 AFM

RB20DET engine mount brackets (don't need the engine mounts)

RB20DET air box

If you have any of the following please throw me a PM with a picture, price and location!

Thanks

Willis

Edited by Willis
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/432588-sydney-wtb-r32-gts-t-parts/
Share on other sites

I have every single part that you need, in Brisbane so will work out a package deal including postage and let you know

Cheers

PM sent, thanks mate!

RB20DET throttle body


RB20/25/26/30 flywheel


RB20DET starter motor


32 GTS-t indicators pair


32 GTS-t wiper motor


RB20/S1 RB25 AFM


RB20DET engine mount brackets (don't need the engine mounts)


RB20DET air box

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

RB20DET throttle body


RB20/25/26/30 flywheel


RB20DET starter motor


32 GTS-t indicators pair


32 GTS-t wiper motor


RB20/S1 RB25 AFM


RB20DET engine mount brackets (don't need the engine mounts)



I need a cheap front mount intercooler setup for a 32. Prefer quality core! Will also buy just a core!


I need an exhaust to suit a 4 door, a 2 door exhaust will work. Interested in a titanium catback also <3


Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Are those 1000cc side feeds? If so, that's part of your problem. I have 1480cc and they idle at stoich on 98RON, and all the way to E85. Also your coil packs.....
    • Update for the sake of closure   Ended up getting the intercooler piping all sorted, new plugs and yellow jacket coils, and she was idling mint until it warmed up while I was bleeding the cooling system. Found the misfire to be localised to cyl 3 by unplugging coilpacks, ran a compression test, that checked out, then decided to get a mate to check if that spark plug was firing out of the motor. Upon cranking it over, with the injectors disconnected, the car actually fired and ran on a couple cylinders and heaps of fuel came out the top of cyl 3 I'd say that injector's either spraying incorrectly or spraying far too much, which is fine as I'm planning on replacing them anyway I'm planning on making about 250kW on flex fuel, and have a set of 1000cc injectors from ozautosport, obviously overkill but I'm planning on building the motor and running more boost further down the line, do you reckon they'd be too big for a smooth idle on 98? Thanks for the replies gents, much appreciated
    • I'm confused. You said you want to "remove the clear coat from most panels" but it sounds like you are actually doing a full respray? Few random things to add -  If you chase the blistered paint with 120 grit, I can almost guarantee you'll chase it down to bare metal (that's fine). But if you paint the car from here, you'll have nice little indents where ever the blistered paint was. The new paint won't magically level out the low areas, you need to fill them. Which leads me to the main point I wanted to add, make sure the whole car is flat before you paint it. All those areas with blistered paint you sanded out, make sure to fill them and triple check they are flat with a block guide coat. I'd also check the whole car is flat with a large block and guide coat but yeah up to you if you want to go that far.   
    • 300hp (225kw) is barely outside the standard turbo's range with a bit of extra boost in it (200ish). If you are going to change the turbo you should aim for 250-300kw (330-400hp) to make the expense worthwhile
×
×
  • Create New...