Jump to content
SAU Community

Earn Cash Pulling My Dash Apart.

Rolls

By Rolls,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted

My dash has started making this horrible creaking noise from 3 places behind it, I got angry last week as I couldn't figure out what it was and hit my fist on the dash, this resulted in the speedo cable breaking just to further infuriate me.

Car is an R32 skyline, is anyone interested in pulling my dash apart, replacing the broken speedo cable and also attempting to find the cause of the creaking? I will pay cash if you have done a dash removal before and are interested.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/432645-earn-cash-pulling-my-dash-apart/
Share on other sites
Sinista32 Grand Master

Sinista32

Posted
Posted

sorry to bud in from a different state

There is a great tutorial >>> here <<<< with pictures which I found recently

Speedo cable alone obviously just needs the cluster out whilst replacing cable.

Noises annoy the shit out of me too and to be 100% to get rid of the noise this would be one way.

Looking at least 4hrs out - clean up, maybe some cable ties, and felt/foam between some joins - and back in if you attack it.

There is an area they usually "creak" from the cluster surround. Felt or thin spunge foam and a tighten of the screws near the metal strip at the base of the cluster :)

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
  • Author
Posted

sorry to bud in from a different state

There is a great tutorial >>> here <<<< with pictures which I found recently

Speedo cable alone obviously just needs the cluster out whilst replacing cable.

Noises annoy the shit out of me too and to be 100% to get rid of the noise this would be one way.

Looking at least 4hrs out - clean up, maybe some cable ties, and felt/foam between some joins - and back in if you attack it.

There is an area they usually "creak" from the cluster surround. Felt or thin spunge foam and a tighten of the screws near the metal strip at the base of the cluster :)

What areas in particular creak? There is one near the left door that I have no idea what it is, and then one from the middle/behind the cluster that goes away when I go over speed bumps for about 5 minutes them comes back, no idea where to even look?

I know it is pretty easy I just really can't be f**ked, give me a can of motivation and I'd consider it.

Sinista32 Grand Master

Sinista32

Posted
Posted (edited)

I'd come around but it's about 12hrs :/

30 minutes effort (Pictures borrowed from previous link ^)

Quick cluster removal/re-install checking for the creak. 1 medium size Phillips head screwdriver.

Most likely going to be one of the screws loose you remove during this process causing the issue of 2 plastic surfaces rubbing.

Just a good tighten when you put it back together. You can check the speedo cable while your here.

Left hand side

ECU behind the kick panel. As this is accessed and you may have an After market it's likely the area causing the noise.

Again check the screws holding the kick panel and above holding the dash (see 2nd last pic)

Note the red line on the cluster surround. It has metal strip running along it. Make sure it's solidly fixed in place.

Edited by Sinista32
Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Ok so we removed the dash today and drove around the block, noise was still there, after listening very carefully we determined that the windshield is creaking so I am completely stumped how to fix this. Other than getting a windshield removal company to remove and refit the windshield does anyone have any ideas, the noise is driving me mental!

I posted about it here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/432870-creaking-windscreen/

edit: thanks for the guide, it was a lot easier than I thought but still took at least 45 minutes to reinstall it all with two of us working on it.

Also my speedo cable has pulled out of the end, there was a lubed up bit of plastic in the speedo cable that was loose but the actual speedo cable looks about 2cm inside the plug like it has falling back, how can this happen as it should be fixed on the gearbox end? What should I do to pull the cable back out.

Edited by Rolls
Dohmar Grand Master

Dohmar

Posted
Posted

I suspect your two creaks coming from the front are probably your suspension uprights worn out, it just sounds like its coming from the interior. I know when I had suspension creaking (that was a combo of worn uprights and a lack of lube on the strut) it sounded like it was coming from the interior.

Worth a look at least

-D

  • Like 1
Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

I suspect your two creaks coming from the front are probably your suspension uprights worn out, it just sounds like its coming from the interior. I know when I had suspension creaking (that was a combo of worn uprights and a lack of lube on the strut) it sounded like it was coming from the interior.

Worth a look at least

-D

Both were actually making noise but we pulled both out, greased the and now they are quiet. Pretty different noise, cheers though.

Window guy is refitting my wind shield tomorrow so wish me luck! Costing 140

Edited by Rolls
Dohmar Grand Master

Dohmar

Posted
Posted

I guess the next thing I'd be checking if you know those are secure (windscreen, dash, dash reo, hang-ons) would be to ensure that every bush in your suspension is up to scratch and any adjustable components are lubed and tightened to spec. grease the hell out of anything that has a grease nipple. also dont discount sway bar bushes cause they can get noisy with age.

aside from that, nfi

-D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      NPboosted manifold fitting purpose

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. The ECU's hose is for a connetcion between the plenum (assuming single throttle body, not ITBs) and the ECU's internal MAP sensor. This is the primary load measurement of the ECU - so you need to get this one right. This has NOTHING to do with the boost contol. The wastegate also needs to see a boost signal - but it is actually far better for it NOT TO COME FROM THE PLENUM (again, assuming single TB, and not ITBs). This should come from the turbo's compressor housing (assuming there is a nipple on there, which there might well not be), or on the boost pipe somewhere between the turbo and the TB. On the pipe from the turbo to the intercooler is usually most convenient. The boost controller is then located between that boost source and the wastegate, ACCORDING TO THE CORRECT PLUMBING DRAWING FOR THAT BOOST CONTROLLER. There is no general diagram or instruction that will be correct for every case. Then the other ports on the plenum are for purposes such as Duncan described. If the boost controller has an internal MAP sensor, for a boost display, etc, then it will want to be hooked up there, alongside the ECU and the FPR.
    • eli995
      NPboosted manifold fitting purpose

      By eli995 · Posted

      Ok gotcha, so one post to fpr  another to bov  and I have the mishimoto boost controller and a link g4+ so I’d just have the tuner set it up properly. For the last two from plenum post throttle to  ecu/ boost controller, I know that I have a hose coming from the ecu that I was confused about so I assume that’s what connect to the boost controller from the ecu? And then the last is just from plenum to boost controller then to wastegate?
    • eli995
      NPboosted manifold fitting purpose

      By eli995 · Posted

    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it was just a quick electrical check, prime the oil and start her up Which, is not what happened. 1. Bloody seppo Aeropro battery holder. Not only was it too tall for the battery (which I'll forgive them for, I have another battery the same nominal size that is taller than Neil's one, but the bracket is a fixed height so the battery was spaced up) But the thing that really shits me is the hardware to hold it on requires a 7/32 Hex key. WTF. No-one will ever be able to remove or install the damn thing without a hex key they don't own 2. Kill switch no longer worked once the console was installed. Neil mentioned above he had to adjust the length but it no longer cleared the console once installed. Sorted. 3. Suspiciously, the brake light holders were hanging in the boot with no globes. Sure enough the stopper on the brake pedal was missing so they are always on unless the kill switch is activated. Will pick one up tomorrow (turns out 32 and 33 don't use the same stopper) 4. All that sorted, I turned on the kill switch, turned the key to ACC. Nothing. Turned it to IGN. Nothing. Checked some fuses and found the main IGN in the boot was missing which improved things once it was replaced. Now ECU and dash lights turn on with IGN but still no fuel pump. 5. Turned it to Start....ECU on, no fuel pump, no starter. Plus the voltage dropped straight to 9v.  I suspect the starter is f**ked but am going to have to work through it all and see what is happening, really looks like more than one issue. Does anyone have the R33 fuse box key with the circuit it sources from (eg BAT, ACC, IGN, SRT etc) and supplies? I can find a translated list showing Amps and circuit without supply circuit, and I can find supply circuit without Amps and target circuit.
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      3rd time lucky, the AAC is now all plumbed up after getting some final fittings All set up under the plenum of maximum access
×
×
  • Create New...