Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

That's my old boat mate, the box was the standard R33GTS t box, it was rebuilt and modified not that long ago, if its at UNIGROUP now they can tell you about the internal mods, but after the rebuild it did about 20 runs with drag radials which may have upset it again.

I was going to get a better box but instead got a better school for my daughter, LOL.

Don't go off the old dyno sheet that was supplied with the sale, that sheet was taken at UNIGROUP by Stevo during the tuning, it was detuned from there to keep the tune safe as the fuel flow was wanting due to injectors being on the small side, when it left it was running about 380, it will be a totally different beast on E85 with some more boost and tuning.

It should go well with a good fuel set up, it ate nearly everything at the SAU nats for speed and was the fastest and quickest RWD by far, the trophy's are somewhere at UNIGROUP.

Best time at the strip I got was 11.080 @ 132? mph, I want you to get it well into the 10's.

As for the track, now it has a new nut behind the wheel the times should drop there as well.

Tell me when you go and post results.

I also found in the bottom of my toolbox most of a copy of the user manual if you want it, it was sold with one originally with all the spares, its yours if you want it, but only pages 49 to 144.

Good to finally speak to you mark really am glad umm yeah there car is at uni group as we speak I have the trophies as well they speak highly of you and the boat lol. It getting a whole new fuel system 5 litre surge tank internal x2 wall bro pumps flex sensor 2000cc injectors fuel rail control sensor etc. whole new dyno and map... I will definetly be posting all results.. And will more then likely be taking it to creek this wens if unigroup are done I honestly can't wait the car is my pride and joy... The car has got some sort of manual with it a copy.. You have the original is that what it is or

Do you have the drag radials that I sold with the car, if so they are getting very old and like a big burn out to bring them on.

I think it liked to launch at around 4000 rpm if I recall, less than that it bogged down and any more it just spun, I suppose it will be different with a different tune?

Have you got a Super Street ANDRA licence, if you don't expect to get kicked out the first run the car hooks up, or you can pay for SS licence on the night for $150 or something, they will hit you up at the slip office on your way back .

If you are planning on going more than once you WILL need one.

Its fun beating almost every rego'ed RWD & 4WD street car at the drags (not trailer queens with rego plates that wouldn't pass a pink slip), my favourite win was against some Porsche 4wd turbo thing that cost $300,000, he complained that he didn't have the launch control on, we lined up again and I beat him again, he did have me till half track though, but at half track I flew passed him, laughing .

Ummm yeah I do have them radials he sold them to me with the car they look a bit how you going I'll try them out for the first time plus I just bought 4 brand new rs3 hankook tyres costly but I like them... License wise I plann to get a good time and that's probably it don't want to put the car under a shit load of stress ATM but then again that can all change as I probably just going to keep chasing better times...plus I only had 3 points of my license left and got pulled over in it a few weeks ago and in 3 weeks lose my license...but when I get it back in 3 months I want to start taking it to the track and stuff.. I'm putting it in a mag soon too I'll let you know how dyno and stuff goes next week..

PM me if you are going to WSID and if I'm free I'll come for a look and bring the bits of the user guide I've got.

If not then I will most likely see you on the street, if a big red BF Falcon starts following you don't worry its only me.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...