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30/26 From Rwd To 4Wd


SIR-JD
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  • 2 weeks later...

The lower you go in theory the worse the geometry will be compounded further by spacing the k frame down. Presumably there is a point it would get to where it starts to cause a problem (vibrations, grabbing, noise, etc). Shows how capable a cv joint can be for there to be no obvious issues.

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I was thinking more like issues with bump steer etc.

But good to hear it has no noticeable effects.

could also be because im a shit driver and dont notice?

yeah, ill go with that ;)

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Luke, did you use 10mm spacers for the front subframe or did you go more?

Reason i ask is because you say you dropped the subframe 30mm......

If so did you just use longer bolts through the front chassis?

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  • 6 months later...

Didnt want to start a new thread but can we hear more about people running the gearbox bolts out ?
Was it okay , or was it worth getting the holes welded and retapped?
Hate the look of it aye, havent got a full tune just yet but yeah.. doesnt look the best and im a lil worried about the torque through it.

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It's not ideal but not the end of the world. There's minimal actual "twist" between the engine and gearbox. All of the force runs straight though the shafts, not the box. The only force is created from the friction of the input and output bearings so basically nothing.

There's a huge number of cars that just have a cover plate over the lower half of the gearbox so don't have any bolts holding them to the sump.

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My RB30/25 is missing a couple of bolts. I guess if I were to get a Spool 3.4L kit and 1000hp I would drill and tap new bolt holes but I don't see a problem as yet

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alright beauty. Im only gna have about 600hp anyway, but i still look at the design as being poor. and should probably get it redrilled and taped.

Even for getting the car engineered and such .

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