Jump to content
SAU Community

To 30/26 Or Keep The 26?


SIR-JD
 Share

Recommended Posts

That's fine, but for the average joe blow on a "normal budget", why would you want to rev the thing past 8000 RPM.

But isnt that the point. The original poster is talking about shoudl he throw a 30 bottm end in his car. He hasnt talked about changing cams, turbos etc...so he is simply moving his power brand down 500-700rpm. he is talking about track days, not competition and just wants to do them reliably. You then talk about people with a normal budget...well a built 26 bottom end needs pistons and bearings, std crank and rods can do the job for a gob of power. If its an R32 sometimes there are bonnet clearance issues etc.

An RB30 bottm end is going to most likely needs rods as well as pistons...need sump adaptor, more machine work for the head studs,. mod dump and cooler pipes....If you want to spend the extra cash and have the extra headroom for future power mods with bigger turbos etc..But the tone of the original post suggests to me best stick with the 2.6L. He said it was responsive as is. HBut he also said budget isnt a concern sooo... present both side of the discussion

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You dont need to.who said you did. but it would get there at the same time a 30 will get to 6500. 26s spin up a lot faster because of the shorter stroke thats my point

Does that mean an RB28 will get to approx 7300 RPM by the time the 26 gets to 8000 RPM?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

^^ ur a funny guy!! By this logic roy has us all beat with his rb20.

All this time I thought it had to do with turbos blade tech and flow mechanics with proper headwork and correct cam choice.. f**k ive wasted my time and money

brb going to destroke my engine real quick

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

i'm gonna stir the pot again.

less torque = smaller, lighter drivetrains = faster!

What changes in a GTR driveline after a 3.0 conversion to make it heavier than the original?

Try again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You take 5th gear out cos the 2.6L doesn't have enough torque to turn 5th gear :D

What changes in a GTR driveline after a 3.0 conversion to make it heavier than the original?

Try again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

^^ ur a funny guy!! By this logic roy has us all beat with his rb20.

 

All this time I thought it had to do with turbos blade tech and flow mechanics with proper headwork and correct cam choice.. f**k ive wasted my time and money

 

brb going to destroke my engine real quick

Your right. Roy is on the money. I bet a well set up rb20 would tear strips off a garden variety 26 or 26/30.

Takes a lot more than capacity to be a good track engine....

Plus it would sound better too

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your right. Roy is on the money. I bet a well set up rb20 would tear strips off a garden variety 26 or 26/30.

Takes a lot more than capacity to be a good track engine....

Plus it would sound better too

Whipper snipper? 26 cc of fury!

That will push a heavy GTR around the track like a bulldog!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am currently going this route. I am curious how much horse power you put behind the cut bell housing? Collins was telling me I am going to crack it and bluh bluh bluh. Because I didn’t buy the custom fly wheel from him. I am looking for somewhere around like 500 hp
    • Forgot to mention that these are the before pics when I first got it!
    • Thanks @PranK for the updated member status, much appreciated! 👍🏼 Now, about those pics… Unfortunately I could only find ones that I took in the dark. I was soon to discover that underneath it wasn’t in the best shape, but it was mine and that’s all I cared about at the time 😆
    • Oh, and only having done this task yesterday, I've now driven the car ~60km since, and while it is hard to avoid placebo effect and confirmation bias, I reckon that some annoyances I had with the way the car has been behaving have improved. Which....kinda makes sense, I guess. If the bushes were really stiff and resisting rotation, they would have been contributing to the effective wheel rate. And if it was more so on one side (which it was, because one side was worse than the other) then.... you might imagine that the additional rate would be asymmetric, and potentially even different between compression and rebound. And so... the car has been twitchy at higher speeds - like freeway on ramps. It really shouldn't be. The wheel alignment is good and there are no (other) known problems elsewhere in the suspension. But at 90-100 on a long sweeping ramp, tiny steering wheel motions would make it feel like it wanted to rear steer. Quite nervous. At lower speeds it would heave about in a manner that it didn't use to. Didn't want to put power down, etc etc. Now...seems to behave better. Am going to have to concentrate on the various corners where it has exhibited weirdness, on the rare occasions when I can get a decent run at them without Methanial getting in the way in his D-Max/Ranger/LDV Van/etc.
×
×
  • Create New...