Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys just pulling down my rb30 for reco. Got to my crank gear the cog that the timing belt runs on don't know what it's called. I can't get it off. I've put pry bars behind it to try n leaver it off smashed behind it with a flat head to pry it off and it's just not moving.

Any help would be good thanks. It's so frustrating

Cheers Cuong.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433124-cant-remove-my-crank-gear/
Share on other sites

Remove the flywheel seal retainer, main stud cradle, and all the bolts on the pump. Then lift the crank and pump out together.

Once the crank is out of the block, you can get a claw puller behind the gear and take it off the crank without destroying it. Take it to an engine workshop and have them do it if you don't have a claw puller.

The other option is drill through the gear in multiple places down to the woodruff key, and then break the gear with a cole chisel. I prefer the non-destructive method, saves you buying a new gear that way too.

Also, the reason they are jammed tight is always because they have started to come off crooked and then jammed.

Have a look at which way it is not straight and bash that side back straight, then try again.

I've tried to get it off straight but it just doesn't move.

I'd prefer to just pull the gear off. Don't wanna pull the crank out yet I need my friend with before I can do that, he is over watching my build and help me through.

Check the woodruff key is not burred, i saw a workshop near me trying to pull one off a 2JZ and the moment i ran my fingers over the key you could feel the sharp edges, a bit of a file and it came off smoothly.

If its stuck on before it even moves a little, try the removing the crank method as its the least destructive.

In the past ive managed to move them by hammering a knife gently down each side around the back where the rear guide washer is to get them moving with some wd40 spray added to the mix, once they move a little, some lube and some working and a bit of gentle tapping gets them off.

Just a tip for when you put it back on, get a tube of anti seize and smear it on the crank nose and inside the gear. It's a moly based greese that doesn't dry up.

Makes life a lot easier next time!

I got a flat head screw driver and got it in between the oil pump and the gear and just slowly twisted the screw driver until I saw the gear budge and then did it on the other side. Kept doing this until there was enough space for the pulley puller claws to fit. Came right off without any dramas :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could someone post some pictures of the factory Jack , tools, spare tire and how they were in a 1998 ER34 2 door skyline originally?
    • UPDATE: Hi all!  As we are getting towards the end of this thread where I’ll showcase final dyno numbers and graph, I wanted to provide an update. Tao from HyperGear has done an amazing job building the custom divided T3 housing for the G30. Communication was flawless, price was great, and now the housing is estimated to arrive in 7-10 days! Very very pleased. I must add, if someone is looking for an affordable turbo and end up reading this thread, I would recommend HyperGear. Genuine brands are the way to go as their proven reliability, predictable performance, and there’s a plethora of information available for specs, flow, and more. This HyperGear recommendation is based on their excellent communication, dedication, and willingness to listen to their customers. I particularly liked their ability to create custom adaptations tailored to specific needs, which is a HUGE benefit over other brands. And if we consider the HyperGear provided dyno results, it adds reassurance knowing their turbos can compete against genuine brands. Next update will be after the dyno!  
    • I've previously seen people post up "dress up bolt kits" for RBs but don't remember seeing them specify the full contents. I can only really suggest you grab the verniers and start measuring, and keep in mind the cam cover and timing cover bolts are both quite specific with a wider unthreaded section where the bushes sit, that will make it hard to get aftermarket replacements which tend to be all thread (set screws) or for longer bolts a flat section with a shorter threaded section at the end
    • I believe there was a similar one posted by @duggyphresh. They were re-routing their battery positive cable in the way I am also trying to achieve. Sorry, I’m new to this forum, so was a bit late to the party by a few months and so reignited the old thread, as I wanted to know how they got on with doing it.
×
×
  • Create New...