Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys i have blown my turbo couple of months ago and car is sitting there collecting dust

have searched the forum for answers but did not come up with any.

Has anyone had any good feedback with any ebay turbos made from Au

seen alot on ebay and would rather get some feedback on some brands before i make a purchase

I do not wanna buy another standard one to see the ceramic wheel fail again

and do not wanna get one high flowed to have to get a tune.

Just want a decent standard bolton to run lowboost

price range $400-500

There has to be some people with good results with a ebay turbo on a standard tune

Cheers Tommy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433137-ebay-turbo-bolt-on-for-rb25/
Share on other sites

NOPE

lol....hes right though..get it rebuilt with steel wheels simple...about 800$ which is only a little above your budget..and will cop 14psi all day should you choose to boost it a little...its not a hilfow just a rebuild stocker...

Tommy, please let me know how you go with this.

Have been told can buy new ones that don't require new ecu, so no tuning, but they're closer to $1200.

Can get a Hypergear highflow for that also but not sure about stock ecu with it..

So I am wondering the same, but i basically figure you get what you pay for, so if its $400 it probably won't be any good =(

If you aren't interested in the cost of high flowing, getting yours rebuilt with steel wheels and ball bearings would be well worth the money in the long run.

You can bolt it straight back on for reliability for the next 100,000 kms. And as previously meantioned, if you wanted to get a little more adventurous, nistune/power fc + a boost controller and it will run 14psi all day every day no issues at all. The stock internals of an rb25 will take 350hp, (but you will need 18+psi to hit any figures like that, and new injectors and fuel pump) so 14psi will be fine. I had my 34 running 13.5psi on the stock turbo. Risky, I know, but it loved it!

you can run a hiflow on the stock ecu. I'm doing it without any issues with a hypergear hiflow, brand new core in stock compressor/turbine housings. Hypergear hiflow is what, $960? trading in your old turbo. Proven, and bolt-on. I'm personally a fan of alot of things ebay, turbo is a bit hit and miss though as to what would be good I rekon.

Guys, if you use the stock boost solenoid, it'll only boost to the stock setting anyway, which is 7psi, whatever turbo you run. That doesn't require a tune. You could even use an rb20 solenoid which is set to 10psi and you should still be fine.

The only thing you are going to notice with a new turbo is spool speed. The bigger ex wheel you get, the longer it will take to spool.

Definitely pull $350 more for hypergear's high flow. They made a price adjustment now at $850 including oil line. That crazy high flow made 320rwkws E85 with better response then a GTRs.

They work just fine on stock ecu under 10psi.

...ok guys PLEASE read carefully...

"A REBUILT TURBO IS NOT A HIFLOWED TURBO...IT IS MERELY REBUILT TO STANDARD SPECS BUT THE WHEELS ARE MADE OF STEEL INSTEAD OF CERAMIC....THIS WILL NOT EFFECT YOUR TUNE AT ALL..IT WILL FLOW THE SAME AS A STANDARD TURBO ..IT WILL HOWEVER HANDLE MORE BOOST FOR LONGER SHOULD YOU CHOOSE TO DO THAT BUT IT WILL REQUIRE SOME TUNING"..

It will cost roughly the same as a hiflow though...

"NO YOU SHOULD NOT RUN A "HIFLOWED" TURBO WITH STOCK ECU AT EVEN STANDARD BOOST AS IT WILL FLOW MORE AIR THAN A STANDARD TURBO..."

Guys, if you use the stock boost solenoid, it'll only boost to the stock setting anyway, which is 7psi, whatever turbo you run. That doesn't require a tune. You could even use an rb20 solenoid which is set to 10psi and you should still be fine.

The only thing you are going to notice with a new turbo is spool speed. The bigger ex wheel you get, the longer it will take to spool.

WRONG!!!

as above, anything bigger than the stock should be tuned, otherwise there's a good chance you'll blow the motor before the tuned cars in the unopened 300kw club (even though you have much less kws)

Voncina- 7 psi on this turbo all good still?

post-90927-0-78853100-1381392871_thumb.jpg

If you aren't interested in the cost of high flowing, getting yours rebuilt with steel wheels and ball bearings would be well worth the money in the long run.

You can bolt it straight back on for reliability for the next 100,000 kms. And as previously meantioned, if you wanted to get a little more adventurous, nistune/power fc + a boost controller and it will run 14psi all day every day no issues at all. The stock internals of an rb25 will take 350hp, (but you will need 18+psi to hit any figures like that, and new injectors and fuel pump) so 14psi will be fine. I had my 34 running 13.5psi on the stock turbo. Risky, I know, but it loved it!

lol..350hp...WOW!!!...

I would run one of Hypergear's highflows on a standard R33 ECU at 7 psi with no concern at all. It might start to get a little R&R, but it probably wouldn't. I am probably the most conservative person on these forums, so if I would do it, then no-one should be concerned by it. At stockish boost it won't be flowing more than a standard turbo does at 10psi or so, and that's usually fine.

Just do the HG highflow and be done with it. Just get the small one. Put the original actuator on it, and if it looks like it doesn't like running even 7psi, then run it without the ECU's boost control solenoid to keep the boost down to ~5 psi. Then you can put the big HG actuator on it when you're ready to do something about the ECU and tuning (and fuel and all that).

I would run one of Hypergear's highflows on a standard R33 ECU at 7 psi with no concern at all. It might start to get a little R&R, but it probably wouldn't. I am probably the most conservative person on these forums, so if I would do it, then no-one should be concerned by it. At stockish boost it won't be flowing more than a standard turbo does at 10psi or so, and that's usually fine.

Just do the HG highflow and be done with it. Just get the small one. Put the original actuator on it, and if it looks like it doesn't like running even 7psi, then run it without the ECU's boost control solenoid to keep the boost down to ~5 psi. Then you can put the big HG actuator on it when you're ready to do something about the ECU and tuning (and fuel and all that).

listen to him :)

FYI (don't do it however) when I ripped apart my old R33 to sell parts, I ran a HKS2535 with the stock ECU, however the A/F weren't that bad at all according to my LC-1 wideband O2. Mind you I did have the stock R33 actuator which is rated at 5psi

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Major thread necro but how bad of a job is it to DIY? Looking at it online it looks like if you reuse your ring and pinion as long as those are in good condition it should be fine to just pull the axles/front cover and replace the diff that way? Or should I be replacing everything and doing preload measurements/gear mesh testing like the factory service manual mentions for the rear diff?
    • in my list I had the R33 GTR as the best Skyline. Infact I had all GTR's (33>34=32), the NSX, the GTO, the 300ZX, the 180SX, the S15 better than the FD RX7. I had the MR2 and the A80 as 'just' better. I also think the DC5R Integra looks better but this is an 01 onwards car. I also think the FC>FD. It's almost like aesthetics are individual! The elements @GTSBoy likes about the FD and dislikes about the 180 are inverse in my eyes. I hate the rear end of the FD and it's weird tail lights that are bulbous and remind me of early hyundai excels. They are not striking, nor iconic, nor retro cool. The GTO has supercar proportions. I maintain these look much better in person (like the NSX) especially with nice wheels and suspension which is mandatory for all cars pretty much. Some (or all) of these you have to see in person to appreciate. You can't write a car off until you see one in the flesh IMO. Like most people we probably just like/dislike cars which represent certain eras of design or design styles in general. I also think the 60's Jag E type looks HORRIBLE, literally disgusting, and the 2000GT is nothing to write home about. FWIW I don't think the Dodge Viper Gen1's have aged very well either. You can probably see where I rate bubbly coupes like the FD. I know we're straying now but the C4 and C5 absolutely murder the Viper in the looks department as time goes on, for my eyes. Wouldn't surprise me if people who love the FD, also love the MX5, Dodge Viper, Jag E Type, etc etc.
    • I used to hate R31s, and any of the other Nissans that led up to it, and any of the Toyotas with similar styling, because of the boxiness. They were, and remain, childish, simplistic, and generally awful. I appreciate R31s a lot more now, but only the JDM 2 door. The ADM 4 door (and any other 4 door, even if they are unique compared to our local one) can eat a bowl of dicks. The Aussie R31 is also forever tarnished by their association with stereotypical bong clutching Aussie R31 owners of the 90s and early 2000s. I think the Nissans of the 70s (other than 120Y/180B/200B) are far superior looking to the 80s cars. The 240K era Skylines are boss. The same is broadly true of Toyotas. Hondas don't ever register in my thinking, from any era. Mitsus are all horrid shitboxen in any era, and so also don't register. Subarus are always awful, ditto. Daihatsus and Suzukis also don't generally register. They are all invisible. I think the SW20 MR2 looks fiddly. The 3000GT/GTO is like that but way worse. Too many silly plastic barnacles and fiddly gimmicks ruined what could have been a really nice base shape. Kinda-sorta looks like a big heavy ST165 Celica coupe (and I'm not sure if that's a good thing or a bad thing). I think the 180SX is dreadfully bland. It's not bad looking. But it has no excitement to it at all. It's just a liftback coupe thing with no interest in its lines, and bad graphical elements (ie wide expanses of taillight plastic on the rear garnish). The S13 Silvia is a little better - getting closer to R32 shapes. But still....bland. S14? Nope. Don't love it. S15...a little better. Probably a lot better, actually. Benefits from not being like a shrunk in the wash R34 (where the S13 was a shrunk in the wash R32 and the S14 looked like a Pulsar or something else from the stable on Nissan mid 90s horrors). The Z32 was hot as f**k when it came out but hasn't aged as well as the A80. Keep in mind that I think the R33 is the most disgusting looking thing - and out of all the previous cars mentioned is objectively closest to my precious R32. It's just....real bad, almost everywhere you look. And that is down to the majority of what was designed in the 90s being shit. All Nissans from that era look like shit. Most other brands ditto. In that context, the FD absolutely stands out as being by far the best looking car, for reasons already discussed. Going behind the aesthetics, the suspension alone makes it better than almost any other car.  
    • If they just called it the "Mazda Tiffany", it would have been spot on.
    • Yup but for me its the HR ! Cut my teeth on the old holden 6s in the day ! And here's me thinking in the day it was also the 300ZX and the Mitsubishi GT3000 ! All, as well had good lines, but always seemed to need finishing off, style wise.
×
×
  • Create New...